7mm On Heather's Workbench - North Western Commuter Power

P A D

Western Thunderer
The vents look like the're round the right way, they should lip over the bunker edge.
Col.

I agree with Col, but looking at the photo they appear to be over hanging the bunker edge and if so they are set too far apart. They should vent into the bunker not over the side.
Cheers,
Peter
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
While I like a good wander off topic, especially if it involves my favourite BR Standard design, I would like to drag this back to the L&YR if I can.

If the 4MT makes it beyond simply lurking forlornly on the test track, it’ll get a thread of its own. It’s still a big "if", as I’m not sure I can do anything constructive with it.
 

Lancastrian

Western Thunderer
I’m not sure we’re talking about the same thing. ;)

I referred to the double line of rivets along the centre of the roof. The "cylindrical protrusions" - over, missus! - are quite safe.

Hi,

Couldn't see those initially on my phone ! Hence my post deletion.....doh ! Did you put the jointing strip on too ?
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Couldn't see those initially on my phone ! Hence my post deletion.....doh ! Did you put the jointing strip on too ?

No worries! No, I’ve not done the jointing strip. I was working from photos, and not many took images from above. As there wasn’t anything there in the kit part aside from the upturned gutter sides and holes for the whistle, let alone protrusions, I think I’ve added enough to get away with it. Bearing in mind all the other little compromises along the way, I’m afraid it’ll have to do.
 

Max M

Western Thunderer
I have heard of this before, but I don’t. How does this type of rag deal with various protruding details on a model?

I generally use a large soft brush to shift obvious dust particles. A quick squirt of air from the airbrush also helps.

Look, I know I’m complaining about grollies in my paint, but it’s not as bad as I make out. One or two specks which can easily be dealt with, if I’m honest. ;)

In view of the protrusions you would dab it over the model rather than wipe as you would, say, a motor vehicle.
Whilst it couldn't get into the nooks and crannies it would still be able to lift of any detritus on the areas without any stuck-ons. If they do come off that may suggest that you need to refine your attachment regime(s)?

Now this is purely speculation but...

Could using the brush to shift particles be part of the problem by adding a static charge to the model? That would have the opposite effect of what you intend and could be compounded by blasting with the airbrush which could stir up any snoozing dust.

Of course I may be talking complete and utter con-rods but worth considering?
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi Heather , for what its worth i spray over the whole loco with neat Isopropyl Alcohol just before I'm ready to spray . This tends to flush out the grot and removes any grease etc . It evaporates quickly and then lay on your first coat of paint .
Thats how i do it , it may be totally wrong but works for me .
Cheers Paul
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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That’s definitely positively the last time I’m spraying black on this loco. It’s not going to get any better than it is, so I’ll let that harden off on the bench for a while, then sort out the buffer beams and give the smokebox and chimney some satin or matt black. The cab ought to get some decorating done, too.

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Meanwhile, I think I might be able to use a few of these things for boiler bands. That’s transfer sheet, sprayed with the gloss black, and shabbily lined with the Bob Moore pen. I’ll do some more later, possibly with the spring bow for variety and slightly better line quality. It’s been some time since I deployed the BM pen in anger, so I’m a bit out of practice.

The platework has been ordered, I need to get some LMS transfers in for the lettering. I think that’ll be next week. This week, I shall concentrate on making the thing look adequate and in a form that actually runs under its own power so I can show folk at Doncaster. It’s sure there are some people who’d be keen to see it "in the flesh".
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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Motor and gearbox back in the frames, red paint retouched around the motion as required. The buffer beams have been given a first coat of red, and the cab has had a first coat of buff. Another round of paint tomorrow, then I’ll put the body on the chassis and see how it runs. Without the weight, the frames are a little lumpy in reverse, but that might just be the position of the reversing lever. It might need a gentle tweak for smooth running in both directions.

I think I will do some detail painting on the backhead while other paint dries. I know the L&YR painted the reverser in the cab buff, but does anyone know offhand if the LMS painted things similarly. Also, what about the handbrake column and handle?
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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Buffers and couplings in, some final paint touching in, and we’re about ready to pack this critter for a trip to Yorkshire.

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The crew needs to be organised, the cab glazing installed, and of course the lettering and lining to do, plus waiting for the plates to be sorted out, but home straight now.

I’ll be glad to finish this and get in with another build.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I look forward to seeing it in its grolly-free glory in the People's Republic of South Yorkshire on Saturday.

I hope it doesn’t disgrace itself (or me) on the test track. It’s not really happy on my short plank, and could do with a gentle running-in session.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
How much longer have you got it for

Not sure, John. I’ve still got to finish it, and then sort out getting it to the client.

Further to the lumpy running, I’ve added extra ballast in the bunker so the trailing truck is settled properly. I have also centred the gearbox on the driven axle, and tightened the loose driver. :oops: It’s running a lot smoother now, so we’ll see what the test track at Donnie uncovers. Must remember to pack some basic tools. :thumbs:
 
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