7mm On Heather's Workbench - the only one left

geoff_nicholls

Western Thunderer
apologies, if this has been answered earlier, but how did you polish the chimney and safety valve cover? I have a pair of gauge 3 clack valves that are dull, and would like them to shine a bit.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Hi Geoff. I don't think I did answer it, so here we go...

I attacked them with some needle files and fine emery first, to clean up rough spots and so on. Then I got a steel wire wheel in my Dremel and just polished away. I was particularly pleasantly surprised at how much of a shine I got on the bonnet for relatively little effort.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Depends on the breed. I recently got some Asda ones and they shed more fluff than my cat. I’m sure the previous ones (of whose provenance, of course, I have no idea) were not prone to do this.

Doesn’t help a lot. Sorry
Simon
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
More years ago than I can remember I spoke to Bob Alderman about removing stray fibres from a surface before spraying. He suggested cotton buds, and I expressed the same misgivings as Simon. He said that it was a good idea to use Johnsons (as in baby wipes, although how exactly you'd wipe a baby off your model using one of these has yet to be explained) as they are less likely to shed fibres.

I have to say that, since then I've always used the Johnsons variety and they've worked well for me.

Brian
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
IMG_5458.JPG

The saga continues! After a decent period to let the latest coats harden enough, I decided to try and tackle the pebbledash effect. Now, part of the effect is down to my iffy spraying, and part of it is down the surface finish on the resin boiler and firebox.

I tried Brasso, which didn't seem to have much effect. I then broke out the T-Cut, and spent about an hour and a half gently rubbing at affected areas (stop sniggering at the back!) with a cotton bud or ten. I think I shall try a microfibre cloth to try and clear the cutting compound build-up in the nooks and crannies. The surface finish is now smoother - not perfect, by any means, but visibly smoother. The colour has subtly changed as well. It didn't seem possible to get a nice shiny finish after cutting, either. Anyway, while I was at it, I pinged a few errant grollies off the paint surface, so a further spraying session will be inevitable.

I think a session in the US bath won't go amiss. That means another gap before I can get a further coat or two of green blatted over the thing again. Ho hum.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Hi Len. I did undercoat, but didn't rub it down. With hindsight I should have. The problem with these moulded unitary boilers, while huge timesavers during construction, is the surface finish can be rough and very difficult to get a smooth surface without damaging detail. The same issue happens with JLTRT diesels.

I'm getting there. Then again, there's a good reason to employ a proper pro for even the basic jobs!
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Heather,

There was a discussion, on the other channel, I think, about Giles Favell’s bogie diesel, no, not a clue what class it was, but the finish was first class. Might be worth a browse. If you can’t find it, I’ll have a look.

And a questionif I may, how did you attach the brass window frames?

Best
Simon
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I remember Giles' diesel. I believe he achieves the finish by polishing and cutting back. You're right, it looks splendid.

The brass frames are actually half-etched with the cab sides. I've simply scraped the paint off. :D
 

simond

Western Thunderer
I remember Giles' diesel. I believe he achieves the finish by polishing and cutting back. You're right, it looks splendid.

The brass frames are actually half-etched with the cab sides. I've simply scraped the paint off. :D


Thanks Heather

The second point isn’t hugely helpful... :)

Suggestions for fixing separate frames? Canopy glue? Superglue? Varnish?

I used to use toothpaste as a running-in aid on slot cars many years ago. It sounded like a plausible plan, but I have no objective idea whether it helped or not! Definitely somewhat abrasive & should polish paint.

Best
Simon
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Suggestions for fixing separate frames? Canopy glue? Superglue? Varnish?

;)

Warren generally recommends varnish for things like number plates and so on, and I've used that method successfully in the past. Canopy glue would also work. Superglue I think would be best avoided.
 

jonte

Western Thunderer
View attachment 84072

The saga continues! After a decent period to let the latest coats harden enough, I decided to try and tackle the pebbledash effect. Now, part of the effect is down to my iffy spraying, and part of it is down the surface finish on the resin boiler and firebox.

I tried Brasso, which didn't seem to have much effect. I then broke out the T-Cut, and spent about an hour and a half gently rubbing at affected areas (stop sniggering at the back!) with a cotton bud or ten. I think I shall try a microfibre cloth to try and clear the cutting compound build-up in the nooks and crannies. The surface finish is now smoother - not perfect, by any means, but visibly smoother. The colour has subtly changed as well. It didn't seem possible to get a nice shiny finish after cutting, either. Anyway, while I was at it, I pinged a few errant grollies off the paint surface, so a further spraying session will be inevitable.

I think a session in the US bath won't go amiss. That means another gap before I can get a further coat or two of green blatted over the thing again. Ho hum.

I sincerely hope your ‘soak’ served to de stress you ;)

Jonte
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Right.

IMG_5544.JPG

We are very nearly back to where I was before I decided I didn't like the pebbledash. The finish is still not perfect, but it's about as close as I'm going to get it. It's taken this long because of sub-zero temperatures making the paint shop just a bit too cool for comfort.

I've retouched the black areas once more. I'll let things sit and dry for a while, then I'll attempt a gloss varnish coat. The black areas will have to be brush painted with satin later. The buffer plank is currently in a white undercoat, pending some red.

I'll be glad to see the end of this saga, though am I am pleased with the way things have turned out overall. I like to think I will have captured the likeness of 3205 in the form it left the Swindon Works.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
IMG_5563.JPG

Ever so slowly, things are coming together. A gentle brush coat of satin varnish over all the black areas this morning. I'll start assembling the cab fittings later. Pondering the colour of the boiler and cab side handrails, while the vertical rails - I think - should be polished steel.

I suppose I should start finding out about getting this shipped Down Under.
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Heather, the best way I’ve found to get a satisfactory finish on JLTRT resin is to slowly fill it up. so rather than sanding down the peaks I fill in the valleys! Maybe 10 lighting coats plus the odd bit of light rubbing down. You get there in the end but it’s a question of patience. That is the beauty of celly tho as I can have it done in a day whereas enamel would take a fortnight:eek:
 
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