7mm On Heather's Workbench - The other Twin

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
I've always had a bit of a soft spot for the LMS pioneer diesels. Many years ago, I built the Modern Motive Power kit (as sold by RJH) of 10000 for one of Best Beloved's significant birthdays, finished in the form in which Mr Ivatt drove the loco out of the workshop at Derby in December 1947. We won't go there, but the loco was the shiniest and bestest shunting engine our short branch line terminus exhibition layout ever had.

Since then, of course, JLTRT have produced a kit. You get to choose which one, and what period, which is nice as both locos varied quite a bit between themselves, and certainly over their service lives.

This commission build is of 10001. It will be finished to represent the loco as it ran on the Southern Region in the early 1950s, still in the black and silver livery and the early British Railways unicycling lion. Plenty of lamp brackets required, then.

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First, the bibles. Plenty of excellent information here, so no excuse for not getting it bob on.

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There aren't actually many parts to this kit. Well, that's not quite true, but the essential upper works structure is pretty straightforward. I just need to keep an eye on which is No1 end as I build. The floor casting is marked, and I've taken the precaution of using a marker pen on the bits that go at the radiator end.

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The bogies are correct, and I must remember they are handed. The wheelbase is not symmetrical, so I need to be careful I match the sides properly! (There are two sets of parts, but it seemed a little pointless unwrapping them both at this stage.)

The model will only have one powered bogie, and I'm still in discussion with the client over the chosen motor and gearbox.

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A nice stainless steel etch for the numbers and some grille details. Happily the glazing is flat. Note the oval windows, which are for the steam heat boiler access panel on 10000: I remain to be convinced it was a glazed panel, as it's not clear from any of the photos. Of course, after the loco's first visit to the works at the end of December 1947, the panel had been plated over, and 10001 didn't have the panel at all...

I'm not happy about the idea of glazing before painting, as the instructions expect, but I can't immediately work out a better way.

The bogie pivots etch is branded for Class 52, but I guess it's just a standard JLTRT fitting.

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The whitemetal parts. I've arrayed them more or less where they fit on the loco. From the left: coupling bang plate, bogie life guards, cab seats, bogie suspension parts (I think there are some missing, which'll please Laurie :rolleyes: ), vacuum cylinders and brackets, brake rod and water scoop balance pipe. Repeat in reverse, plus the cooling fan parts.

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Brass castings, again arrayed as they will fit on the loco. From the left: lamp brackets, coupling (which I believe is wrong but I need to check the sources), buffers, vac and steam pipe, multiple unit connectors, bogie access steps, brakes, sanding gear details, cab steps, horn, control gear, sundry brake detailing parts, windscreen wipers and handbrake wheels.

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Finally, a bag of bearings, springs and screws.

The model will be traditional DC, pickup on all wheels. As I'm building it for a friend, I plan to go to town a little, which is where the thread about representing the engine inside the box came from.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello Heather,

if it's the same as below, it's the correct type for 10001. In that it has a tommy bar rather than a bob weight. The tommy bar maybe a bit on the big side though.
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OzzyO.
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Hi Heather

I made mine such that the body separates from the chassis in such a way that the cab area is clear for glazing after painting.

Very little extra effort.

One of the most enjoyable kits I have ever built.

Richard
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Thanks both. I like the idea of keeping the body separate. Thanks Richard.

As for the coupling, it's the type withe loose tommy bar, as you say Ozzy. The kit ones look a bit anaemic, so I was considering sourcing anew. Laurie Griffin has the MR/LMS type, and also one he lists as specifically for the Twins and the early electrics. Some further investigation is required, I think.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Heather.
another way of dealing with the glazing is to get a second set. Attach first with canopy glue or similar PVA, paint at will, remove painted glazing with glue and then insert clear glazing with the glue of choice. When asked, Laurie has supplied extra sets of glazing in the past.

Simon
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Simon, would that be in conjunction with making the body removable? From reading the instructions - I know, who reads instructions, right? - painting takes place once all the components are fixed in place. This means the cabs can't be left off until later.

There's an etched strip that is designed to cover the cab/body joint, which is I suspect why the assumption is the whole going is assembled glazed and then painted.
 

SimonT

Western Thunderer
Heather,
I've done it with class 37s. I build the body and get the joints smooth and hidden. As the cab floor is part of the the underframe/floor/base thing, I use pointed nose tweezers to go where fat fingers can't up into the inside of the cab. First time I left the protective plastic sheeting on the glazing, glued it in and then after painting removed both sheet and glazing and replaced the glazing. Trouble with this variant is that it is easy to knock the glazing off the protective sheet.

Simon
 

Pugsley

Western Thunderer
I followed the instructions and painted the loco after installing the glazing, for my 37, using masking fluid to protect it when painting. It turned out to be a bit of a pain in the a*se and next time I'd paint and detail the cabs, before carefully masking inside, installing the glazing at the end. The body is removeable from the chassis to allow access.

I'd still use canopy glue to secure the glazing, that way you can wipe off any excess with a cotton bud. It'll be fiddly putting it in, but I now think it is the best way to do it.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Heather

Build the body then paint it. Then glaze it and add all the cab detail that is what I have done for all seven Jltrt diesels that I have built.

I would use an abc diesel bogie gear box and motor, but what ever you use the loco needs lots of lead adding so that it weighs in at 5 pounds minimum otherwise it won't pull the skin off a rice pudding.


Richard
 

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
As with Compton Castle, I'm looking at an early Class 25 at some stage (although it'd be a little large for my current layout!)... those castings look extremely good! Is that a plastic bogie frame though??
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Well, it's not exactly plastic, more a sort of hard resin, but yeah.

I've not heard any complaints about it, so it must work. <shrug>
 

thruxton

Western Thunderer
Problem with the Pictorial Supplement is that it highlights where JLRT got the roof doors wrong- centre partitions should be staggered. Presently musing how to resolve this on my 10000.
 

Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
For the glazing I find the best way is to glaze at the end.
Spray the cab interiors.
Place masking tape over the inside of the windows - sticky side facing out!
Take one of the glazing pieces and push it in from the rear, this pushes the masking tape right into the rebates. Pop the glazing back in a bag. Paint. Remove the masking tape and jobs a good un.

I hand cut my glazing now and fit it to the front, it is worth the additional effort!
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richard carr

Western Thunderer
That's a good idea Cliff I will have to try on the 40s.

Steph, can you tell us a bit more about the bogie sag as I have not come across that before. A piccie would be nice

Thanks

Richard
 

djparkins

Western Thunderer
I've always had a bit of a soft spot for the LMS pioneer diesels. Many years ago, I built the Modern Motive Power kit (as sold by RJH)

Not so Heather. There was never a Modern Motive Power kit for the 1,0000/1.

There was a budget/cheap/'make of them what you will' Post-War Prototypes kit [different company and ethos] which I think you are confusing it with. It was £52.50 + Motor Bogies, when introduced in 1984. RJH acquired this in 1988 and put the price up to around £200 [as they did all those diesels] - to pay for the running of their large factory unit.

Regards,

DJP
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
You are quite correct, David. Apologies for the muddle. The original box label has long since vanished, and the intervening twenty-odd years haven't helped!
 
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