Painting and lining

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Truely wonderful:thumbs::thumbs::bowdown::bowdown::bowdown: - even more so when seen in the flesh at Leigh! I'm also looking forward to seeing the Scot running on our Club layout.

regards

Mike
 
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Silverystreaks

Western Thunderer
Very nice indeed Warren. I purchased one of these on release but I was still into 4mm so I sold it on some years later but soon regretted it. Having seen and inspected subsequent alternatives I held out and eventually sourced an unmade one from a well known web buying and selling site

I agree the cast running plate can be a problem but I knew what to expect having earlier completed a DJH A2. In my humble opinion despite the age and some very minor inaccuracies it still looks the best ex kit A1 we have had in 7mm

Bob
 

warren haywood

Western Thunderer
Hi Bob
Watch the cab, it isn’t high enough and needs about 2mm adding at the bottom. If you look at the close up of the cab you can make it out. Couldn’t see it until I took the picture but then that’s digital photography for you. The tender is ok but inside the coal space is not even close to fitting. I filled it with coal so problem solved. The other nasty area is the front footplate and the inside cylinder cover, plenty of gap filling there aswell. Like you say it’s not a bad result but getting there was frustrating.
 

Silverystreaks

Western Thunderer
Hi Bob
Watch the cab, it isn’t high enough and needs about 2mm adding at the bottom. If you look at the close up of the cab you can make it out. Couldn’t see it until I took the picture but then that’s digital photography for you. The tender is ok but inside the coal space is not even close to fitting. I filled it with coal so problem solved. The other nasty area is the front footplate and the inside cylinder cover, plenty of gap filling there aswell. Like you say it’s not a bad result but getting there was frustrating.

Yes Warren I recognise the issues you have highlighted. I forgot to mention in my previous message that I had completed my DJH A1 a couple of years back. If I recall correctly I replaced a number of castings.

It never ceases to amaze me that a DJH limited edition kit produced in the early 90's is still turning up for sale or in your case recently completed

Regards
Bob
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Tim,
The paint i use is Clostermann cellulose, its hard wearing and very smooth, the black is particularly good. Its available from a company in Swindon called AP Western.

I mix it 1part paint to 2or3 parts thinners, which must be high gloss easyflow, this allows a slightly longer drying time (1 minute rather than a few seconds) so that the paint can settle out and stops a sandpaper finish.

I spray at about 15psi, a mist to start with then a heavy 'thug' spray, which takes practice but gives that wondorful smooth glossy finish which only celly does.

For the green i use BS 224 deep bronze green
The oxide can be any redish brown, i use RAL3009

Hope this helps

Warren

Hi Warren,
In this early post you mention that you use cellulose BS224 deep bronze green. Is that also from A P Western or another source? Currently I have a mix that I got from my local Halfords but I believe their paints are not pure cellulose. It smells like cellulose and I dilute it 2 to 1 with cellulose thinners.

I'm quite happy with the colour but if pure cellulose will help to get a better finish I would like to give it a try.

I'm in the process of painting my L1 and will be soon making a start on the Duchess, so I thought I'd go through your thread and see what tips I might pick up to improve my painting. Hope you don' mind, by I may be firing further question your way.

Thanks in advance.
Cheers,
Peter
 
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