7mm Pencarrow - Cornish BR(S)

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oldravendale

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Yorkshire Dave said:
It's strange how the majority of us paint our locomotive valve gear black or a variant of polished steel. When looking at the film I noticed around 02.58 when the loco is reversing around it's train the close up of the valve gear reveals the moving parts and nearby areas (piston rod, connecting rods etc) to be an oily light rust/bronze colour.
Click to expand...

I loved the film too. By coincidence again (we must stop meeting like this) I was at Loughborough today for the "Last Day of BR Steam" commemorations which they did rather well with 70013 on a non stop Leicester North to Loughborough, identified as 1T57 and painted nameplates - however I digress. During a tour of the shed I noted the same thing as far as the colour of the rods valve gear was concerned and it is due to the thick grease of a golden colour used to protect the bright steel. In fact, when clean the gear is bright, but we'd not be so crass as to paint the rods on our locos silver, would we, but that's probably true for a loco ex works. In fact my photos show that, when locos were "bulled up" for specials the rods were polished steel. It may well have been common practice for sheds to coat the rods and valve gear in grease to minimise rust.

Maybe.....

Brian
 
Overseer

Overseer

Western Thunderer
An in service loco should have the coupling and connecting rods inspected daily at least to check for cracks in the steel. A rag would be used to wipe down the rods during the inspection, leaving a coating of oil over the steel. Evidently, towards the end of steam less maintenance was carried out on goods locos so the rods could become filthy. The need to see cracks in the steel was the reason coupling and connecting rods were not painted on British Railways (and predecessors) locos, paint will hide cracks. Obviously, industrial locos were not running at speed and a failure would not be as catastrophic so the rods were fairly often painted.
 
SimonT

SimonT

Western Thunderer
I use Railmatch acrylic Oily Steel with a touch of a mid rust added as a wash over either 'au naturel' or blackened rods. All applied as a wash with some acrylic thinners from Vallijo/MG/whichever company he hasn't fallen out with and water. If it gets chipped a gentle rub in the area and then another wash introduced some variation. Weathered Steam Locomotives by Andy J Small is your friend for information towards the ore beaten up end; I think my copy came from the West Country Bookshop.
Back to Pencarrow, I wouild have the steps in the corner with some overhanging bits of a tree to confuse things a little bit. The green would also draw the eye from all the building materials.
But then Chris is doing pretty darn good on his own!
Simon
 
Railwells show Aug 2018
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    Pencarrow

    Western Thunderer
    Fantastic day out today down at Railwells. Never been before but really enjoyed it. Good selection of trade and not a poor layout to be seen anywhere - great modelling all around.

    Anyway, the only reason I went down was to see John Greenwood's 2mm NCR and Bodmin empire. The rest if the show was a very pleasant bonus.

    IMAG5764.jpg IMAG5761.jpg IMAG5759.jpg IMAG5735.jpg IMAG5733.jpg IMAG5723.jpg IMAG5716.jpg IMAG5712.jpg IMAG5702.jpg
     
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    • Alternative to Bodmin cottages?
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    Pencarrow

    Western Thunderer
    Seeing John's Wadebridge empire enabled me to have a good look in 3d around the various groups of buildings, particularly the clusters of housing that bound the station. I've been looking for something to go at the rear of the layout on the right, leading away from the goods yard and up to the bridge. Backs of interesting houses particularly. My original plan was to use the row of terraced houses that are in loads of photos of Bodmin North. These ones:

    rps20180813_064113.jpg

    But I was quite taken with these from Wadebridge...

    rps20180813_062138.jpg

    rps20180813_062009.jpg

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    Pencarrow

    Western Thunderer
    Inspired by the trip down to Railwells I've also made a start on the second wharf building.

    Marked up
    rps20180814_221931.jpg
    Outside cut out
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    Window and door openings cut outrps20180814_221845.jpg Walls thickened up
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    Comparison with the first section. Note the new build is set slightly lower and the the end lean-to section shows a little settlement.IMAG5779.jpg
     
    Pencarrow

    Pencarrow

    Western Thunderer
    Now, in reality the second of these wharf buildings had a rendered upper section at the front. As I've previously mentioned, I'm modelling this building some 60-70 years after it was demolished by the LSWR. A bit of degradation is therefore called for...

    I'm therefore going to model the upper section with parts of the render having fallen away revealing the stonework underneath. I'm guessing if the building was rendered that a poorer quality stone (smaller bits) was used compared to the other wharf building.

    So how to represent this? Well I'm going to use South Eastern Finecast 4mm Random Stone overlaid with a thin sheet of plasticard. I'm then going to cut away sections of the top layer. Sounds like a plan?

    This is the building in its current state prior to the stonework being overlaid.

    IMAG5786.jpg

    If anyone has a better idea shout up. This lot will be left until the morning to set...
     
    Yorkshire Dave

    Yorkshire Dave

    Western Thunderer
    Pencarrow said:
    So how to represent this? Well I'm going to use South Eastern Finecast 4mm Random Stone overlaid with a thin sheet of plasticard. I'm then going to cut away sections of the top layer. Sounds like a plan?
    Click to expand...

    Could you rough up the stonework a bit with sandpaper and apply a thin layer of polyfilla with some pva mixed in. Once set attack it with a probe then lumps should fall away revealing the stonework. Maybe worth experimenting on a piece of scrap stone sheet. I've seen wargamers attack hydrocal plaster buildings with probes/picks to represent bomb and shrapnel damage. In your case you will have a solid layer underneath so you won't have the deep craters.

    Excellent work on the buildings and will certainly look the part once complete ;).
     
    Pencarrow

    Pencarrow

    Western Thunderer
    SimonT said:
    Try DAS as Gordan Gravett seems to get excellent results with it.
    Click to expand...

    It's funny, I've tried Gordon and others techniques using DAS a few times but never had much success. Ends up looking like a kindergarten playdough mess when I try it.

    Tile adhesive/grout has been suggested and, as I have some left, I might give that a go.

    But that will be after doing a bit of garden taming.
     
    Stubby47

    Stubby47

    Western Thunderer
    Try tacking odd shaped bits of plastic (with a hole drilled in the middle) to the brickwork before you add the grout / DAS. These can then be pulled off after the grout has dried (using the holes).

    This should give you a sharp edge to the plaster where it's supposed to have dropped off.
     
    Simon

    Simon

    Flying Squad
    When I built my version of these buildings on Pomparles Siding, I used styrofoam pizza bases.

    Very light, cheap, great texture and very easy to scribe into, gouge out, add sections of brick/stone "below" the surface as you want to.

    This shows "my" building:

    Spotty.jpg

    The sticky-outy bit I made out of plastikard, the extra horizontal "string courses" were off-cuts of mounting board, any cardboard would do.

    The effect you are after I did do on the adjacent wall, with brick plastikard, pushed into the styrofoam (no pictures, sorry).

    All glued with PVA or epoxy resin, it doesn't like poly cement or mek!!

    Simon
     
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