7mm Pete's workbench. LMS 2P or madness in a box.

Discussion in 'Area 51' started by Peter Cross, 1 September 2018.

  1. Threadmark: LMS Jubilee.
    Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Bit late in the build but we'll start from where I am now with the build and possible do a prequel later on.

    This is being built from an old Oakville kit which is showing its age. Will be 45721 in BR green with welded tender.

    State of play now is the tender is complete ready for a good clean and priming.


    The loco is coming on but slowly. The kit had white metal cast brakes. So these needed altering to brass along with the motion bracket and associated mounting for the expansion link. As you can see the frames are almost done. With the wheels on the everything goes around as it should including connecting rods and crossheads. Rest of the valve gear is fettled but not fitted.

    Footplate, cab, firebox and boiler all fit together. Boiler yet to be fixed, probably by screws. Smoke box saddle is too long and needs shortening. The main problems here were the firebox which when I made with the kit parts I could not get to fit, and the cab was to wide.


    More soon I hope. I'm hoping that this week I can get some painting done and catch up a bit. There's my 0395 to finish and a MR1262 as well. And the lads Thomas has not even seen primer as yet.
    Last edited: 2 September 2018
  2. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Progress but not what I was expecting. The boiler and smoke box are now screwed to the footplate and firebox.. Saddle have now been shortened. Just need to remove a little of the footplate behind it now.

    Whilst sorting out some of the parts for the footplate I looked at the castings. My loco ballast tub is going to get some input. A bit of scratch building is now required.
    Having searched through my parts I found some parts that would do. First up the oiler on the right a casting that I had rejected sometime ago as the connection unions were poorly cast and undrillable. After cutting a slot and using 1mm tube, I could use without a problem. Had to scratch build the union next to it. For the life of me I can't remember it's name.

    This is the part in the kit.


    This is my version.


    Also the 2 and 3 pot oilers in front of this are from my stock.

    Now ought to get the rest done so I have something to fix it too. I was hoping that I would be able to build more or less from the box. I know I'm a fool and should not be prone to wishful thinking.
    Last edited: 10 September 2018
    BR Tony, mswjr, chrisb and 11 others like this.
  3. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Trying to buy a compressor. The shops here do their best not sell you anything. First shop right compressor, but no connection fittings. Second shop different compressor and quick coupling parts that didn't fit nether compressor fittings or parts I already have. Third shop has right compressor but cost half as much as the other shops.
    I have this every time I want something. The two shelves I got a while ago. One for the uprights one for the brackets and one for the shelf.

    I give up I'll keep the money in my pocket.
    BR Tony likes this.
  4. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    How did you form those lovey bends on the tender beading?

    BR Tony likes this.
  5. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I normally use some half round wire from metalsmiths. It's quite soft, my method is to start by straightening a length of it. But this had a half etch rebate so I used straight round brass wire, I starts by tacking one end in place. Then tacking at end of the first straight. I then use anything that's round to ease the shapes at the corners. Then tacking again, pulling tight down the straight, so on etc.
  6. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I should of added that I annealled the brass wire for this tender. I think I wasted a couple of lengths cleaning before fitting. 0.5mm annealled wire is very soft and easily snags.
    Last edited: 12 September 2018
    BR Tony likes this.
  7. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I've not been doing very much with this,but I have been making up parts to fit on to it. Also working out what I need to make that's not in the kit and what castings I can use. The back head needed major surgery. It was about 4mm too tall and 2.5ish too wide.

    Back to the bits made. First off is the lubricator on the right hand side, this as far as I can see in photos only has 4 feeds. The two and three pot oilers to the front were shown in last progress report.


    Cab roof is also ready for fitting. I will get some of the inside done first though. That's once I've sorted out how it goes. Some of the castings are not so hot. I may need to scratch the cab splashers and the reverser mount.

    The loco c
    Steps are ready to go on, once most of the other work is done, and Mr Clumsy is not likely to bend them.


    I also made some new sides that carry the expansion link. These will replace the cast white metal ones in the kit. I need to figure out how to hold the expansion link in place using something attached to the bearing cap (still to be made).


    I still have quite some detailing to do on the frames. Although slowly I think I am getting there.

    I now have my compressor, so I must also get on with some painting.
  8. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Just a little done this week. But we are heading in the right direction. The body is slowly being detailed from front to rear with a few exceptions.

    Starting at the the front I have fitted the drop step steps and lamp irons.


    I added some of the cab detail. Just to see if it worked or whether I needed to scratch build it. Backhead is still loose.


    Steam pipes are from the kit but the flanges are not. I also added the lubricators that I made a while ago. It all seems to sit together well. Unless you put the smaller oilers into their slot which is in the wrong place



    I've also marked up handrails and other sundry items on the boiler.
  9. Pencarrow

    Pencarrow Western Thunderer

    Very nice Pete as usual.
    BR Tony and Peter Cross like this.
  10. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Thanks . It's a bit slow at moment mojo is a little down and spending time planning layout.
    BR Tony likes this.
  11. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Progress with the body.

    Cab roof, some beading and the handrails now fitted to the cab.


    The ejector built and fitted. The main pipe detaches for painting. The original was a rather bland white metal casting. That will be more use in the ballast box.


    I think I ought to give it a jolly good clean. Only having the odd half or hour at the bench cleaning has not been to vigorous.

    Attached Files:

  12. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Onwards with the jubilee. Steps were next along with the top feed covers. There's a few more brass bits to add including a replacement lamp iron on the footplate. The rest are the castings. The chimney, dome and topfeed are already fixed.


    So back to the frames to break the monotony. I'm going back to the frames. A quick check to see if the two halves still fit together.



    I will put the brakes etc back on to finish the detailing. But to note for future the front brake hanger is hidden behind the connecting rod.
    All the valve gear except the return crank is ready to fit. But I would like to get the injectors ect fitted before I fit it. Knowing me I'll bend some part or other, if I do the valve gear first.
  13. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    More has been done.

    We are back to the frames. First job was the bogie mount.

    I made a slider From a lump of white metal. Added a couple of pins for side control springs and a couple of pockets on the bogie. A little extra packing to increase the down thrust on the bogie. I did have a problem, no matter the springs or the amount of side play the bogie kept derailing. I eventually found it was nothing to do with the side control, but the trailing wheel flanges catching on the front brake stretcher. Once modified it all worked well. The screw in the unit is just to keep all parts together, have lost things like this in the past.


    I also fitted the injectors, except I realised I need to rotate the exhaust one by 180 (a senior moment I do believe).



    The left hand valve gear is on an rotating properly. Took longer than I thought as although the rods were made up. Over sized holes and nothing to hang the expansion link on. All took extra time to think about and remedy. Hopefully the otherside will not take quite so long.



    There are still the cylinder drain cocks and front covers to add. There are no drain cocks in the kit so again some thinking time required.
  14. Jon Nazareth

    Jon Nazareth Western Thunderer

    Amazing! I have difficulty handling small pieces in G3 so, it must be even more difficult in 7mm. Tweezers to the fore, I expect.

  15. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Thanks Jon. It's easier than 4mm. I keep looking at your work in G3, I must say it looks tempting. Maybe one day I'll a display loco in it.
  16. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    The injector is now the right way around.


    Even if the photos isn't.
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  17. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Pedro helping out with the jubilee.

  18. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Well the jubilee has had a slight accident, it seems to of fallen into a pot of primer. Well most of it anyway. There are still the wheels, and a few of the smaller parts to do. I have to get them done before I get the airbrush out as I have loads of things that need to be painted in cellulose black. Before the enamel colour goes on.
    Backhead still needs making but there is plenty to do before it needs fitting.


    Time to clear the bench, and the rest of the mess in the workshop. There are hundreds of spare parts to put away, leftovers and ones from stock that may of been of use. It's surprising how many there are after a 4 loco session.
    After lots of painting and lining the next loco will be a LNER F1 from a Gladiator kit. It was going to be Saint class. But after fitting with the jubilee and the MR 1262. I want something easy. The Saint is made up from at least 3 different manufacturers. With no instructions, that though doesn't always mean that much.
  19. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I've started my next loco build its a Gladiator LNER F1. It will be I hope a fairly straight out the box build, apart from changing the ponies in the kit to radial bearings. I feel these will help with the waddle that 4 coupled locos can have.
    I have pressed out all the rivets, I had an evening in which I was feeling rather uninspired with other jobs.
    I made the radial boxes as the first bit of real construction. Front and rear are slightly different to each other. I did make a little error on the front one. But with a little modification I got the wheel bushes in the right place. I just need to add a tube to the top for the centralising spring. Next job is to make the cheeks. Then on with the build as per the instructions.

    BR Tony, Wagonman, Rob Pulham and 5 others like this.
  20. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    A start is made on the main frames.

    Two little problems turn up.
    First is the axle bushes are too small for the holes. Luckily I had 4 that fitted. The pony ones are replaced anyway.
    Secondly. The ash pan runs behind the springs except it doesn't. They are both two layers soldered on inside the frames, so both are same height.
    The ash pan spacer was doubled up, using spare fret. this spacer and a spring hanger also want to use the same space on the frame. I shortened the ash pan spacer to maintain the strength of the spring hanger.

    This shows the problem.


    How it all went together.
    Hi IMG_20181205_103520257.jpg

    Now I said I was building the rest out the box, after making the radial boxed. Well I decided that it would be even better with 3 point compensation. So the rear driver will be centre pivoted. And the motor will be hung on the front driver.