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Discussion in 'Area 51' started by richard carr, 15 August 2020.
Richards 33 looks even better in the flesh!
It certainly loses something in that photo JB, I suppose it is what you get from a phone camera.
46037 is a bit of a survivor. I managed to drop it and destroyed one end. Laurie stepped up with a new cab and I completely dismantled it and started again. What I did a short while later was one of those moments. Thankfully Laurie found another cab.....
Once is excusable, twice is just poor cricket old sport....
I did wonder what had happened to it once the paint came off and the battle scars could be clearly seen. You did a really good job of fixing it Simon.
Thank you Richard. I can recommend autumn rasberries as a stress control agent. My workshop had a couple of east facing windows with a rasberry hedge just outside. My workbench was against that wall and any time I felt a bit of stress I leant out and picked a rasberry (they were big beasts the size of a loganberry).
Not sure that I could get them to grow 1000ft up a Welsh hill. Now, that's another project for next year!
More progress on the diesels.
46037 now has yellow ends
And 37273 is now D6973
I have to say that the paint job has turned out much better than I expected, masking off the yellow panel was tricky but it looks ok.
This was painted with cellulose paint from a local car place mixed to the correct BR colour specs.
It shouldn't be long before this is up and running again.
I have made a bit of progress this week, although most of my spare time has been spent drawing etches.
46037 now looks like this.
There is a little bit of overspray to tidy up but otherwise I am happy enough with the paint finish. The weathering will tone down the gloss, it is a bit shinny at the moment. I will be ordering some new glazing from MM1 next week, the original is looking a bit too cloudy.
37273 is now D6973, these are the transfers from Railtec
For some reason there are only 3 blue dots and all the photographic evidence I have collected is that 4 are needed. The tank gauges really do add that extra bit and are well worth getting.
I am in the middle of sorting out the buffer beams, these need to painted red, add in the steam heat pipe and remove the train air brake as these were not fitted until at least 1968. The multiple working receptor also needs moving forward about 1mm with a bit of plastic card.
Now for the next project, I bought this on Ebay maybe 5 years ago it even be 10 years ago. The kit has been put together well so far although there area few parts already fitted that will need to come off before it gets painted.
The big problem though is how to convert this to S7. The main driving wheels have brake actuators on both sides of them that connect to the brake blocks which are a push fit into the inner chassis, with everything set for a back to back of 29mm. There isn't really enough meat on the brake blocks to not push them all the way in and as I want to add some compensation to the bogies it needs a new inner chassis.
Lovely work, I especially like the 37. May I ask how you masked up the front of the engine, for the small yellow bit under the code box. In particular the rounded corners. I have this to do on my 4mm version...and in all my years of modelling I've never had to do this...so any advise would be appreciated. This is my first diesel in 24 years (wouldn't want to make a habit of it).
It was tricky Mike
The radius is pretty tight in 7mm, it was about 1.5mm. I cut a piece of tamiya masking tape with a nice square corner and then tried to cutthe radius in neatly with some small scissors.
I ended up with a piece of tape for each side with the radius on that I could position correctly in the middle of each tail lamp, then I could fill in the bit in the middle. I did the same thing with the bottom square corners, these are some fairly small bits of tape to handle. It actually looks better in the flesh than it does in the photos.
A bit more progress with D6973, with the body and chassis being reunited for the first time in a while, albeit temporarily for now.
It is starting to look the part, the headcodes need adding and a few other final details, that should get done this weekend all being well.
This turned up from PPD on Saturday.
So I couldn't resist building it while F1 qualifying was on, the compensation works great, I just need to add the brakes to make sure everything is in the correct position for S7.
You can clearly see the difference between the S7 outer wheels and the middle wheels which are still finescale, unfortunately the S7 group hasn't got round to doing 3 foot 1 inch wheels yet, so these will have to be reprofiled on my lathe.
Aren't the 37 wheels 3' 9" in diameter,
These are 31 wheels, 3 foot 7 on the outers and 3 foot 3 on the centre axle.
37 wheels are 3 foot 7 too.
This is all from the CLAG diesel wheelbase guide.
BR diesel and electric loco wheelbase information
Back to D6973.
I have been using Precision Labels headcodes for quite few years now, normally I just glue these in place with a bit of superglue, but I thought crystal clear would probably be better, that turned out to be a bad idea.
If you bother to read the instructions which of course I hadn't before I did this, it does tell you that the printing isn't water proof so don't use water based glues !
That didn't take long to remove fortunately.
The other thing to remember with headcodes is that some locos had letters that scale 12 inch letter some had 10 inch letters. Precision Labels do both and class 37s have 12 inch letters. The idea is that you cut the headcode frames on the left of the photo to the shape of the headcode box on your loco. You can see that there are in fact several different type, the 37 is the third one down, you then cut out the individual characters and stick these onto the back of the frame having first peeled off the backing paper to reveal the glue. This then goes in the headcode box and you get this.
I like that! I've seen the Precision Labels headcodes mentioned here and there, but I think that's the first time I've seen them properly described.
Will those bogie etches be for sale Richard? Do you need to revise them at all? I’d like to be able to stick Heljan class 31 bogie frames on them.
I wasn't planning to sell them but you are welcome to order one from PPD, I can get you the refence number for it.
I assume that you are going to put these under a Heljan 31 ? I'm not sure the Heljan motor will fit nor will the axles, but you could easily make some bearings that would work.
So far they don't need any revisions, but they are designed to have the DJH sides frames hang off them and I haven't done that bit yet, so unless you are in a hurry just give a me while to get one of the bogies finished so you can see exactly how it all fits together or not !
I have been building the second bogie for the 31.
This is going to be the powered bogie and I was going to use my usual ABC gears diesel gearbox and maxon motor combination, however I hadn't really thought this through properly and as designed this doesn't fit. So I though why not try one of those Finney 7 gearboxes and a buler motor I happen to have to hand. So here it is.
It's very compact and went together easily and runs very nicely indeed, but it didn't fit either so time for some butchery !
So I have enlarged the motor opening and now both motor and gearboxes will fit, I have decided to use the Finney 7 gearbox but use a different motor, a 1532 motor that I have ordered from Taffvale Models for £18 each, it is quite a bit smaller and probably more powerful than this one at 2.8 watts. The plan is to motorise both bogies and use battery power, and see how this goes.
Are you driving just one axle? I can't see the 'Remote' gearbox in your picture?