Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen
Western Thunderer
I saw the chassis and etches today, they look really excellent, I'm sure that if they are made available there will be a queue for them,
Tim
Tim
Scale7 JB Workbench.
- Thread starter Scale7JB
- Start date
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Hi Jan,
In terms of rescaling the artwork it would be but a case of a few seconds adjusting the scale.
The problem arises where I have designed the kit around 7mm axleboxes.
It could be worth a go though. Would you be building in 16.5mm or 18.83?
JB.
mickoo
Western Thunderer
Be careful if you scale down, all of your slots will also shrink, so unless you reduce the material thickness by the corresponding amount......
The reverse is also true, just witness the plethora of 7mm kits scaled up from 4mm where the slots are too large for the material width.
You either have to use a different gauge material or adjust all the slots to suit.
The reverse is also true, just witness the plethora of 7mm kits scaled up from 4mm where the slots are too large for the material width.
You either have to use a different gauge material or adjust all the slots to suit.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Yes, I reckon it would need to be o.2 sheet, it would be awfully delicate during the building. The frames on the 7mm version were a bit delicate until I put the outer overlays on.
JB.
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
Hello @Scale7JB
Thanks for your response - and understanding
I model in 18.83. Which generally makes the clearances of anything with outside Walschaerts 'interesting'. Especially with the scaled curves that these "..most pugnacious of Pugs" (quote courtesy of Iain Rice) had to contend with. Thanks again.
Cheers
Jan
mickoo
Western Thunderer
You might be okay with 0.2 nickel silver in 4 mm scale as it is inherently stronger, but brass would be a nightmare.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
I think you may also struggle with some of the half etch overlays at 0.1mm also. Not sure I know enough about 4mm loco building to give an educated answer. It would be an expensive experiment that may not work out..
JB.
Lyndhurstman
Western Thunderer
@Scale7JB @mickoo
Gents,
Thank you for taking the time to consider my unruly invasion in this thread. I would not want to waste anyone's time in considering something that did not profit the assemblage - in particular the designer/creator - so please do not expend any more of your energies in pursuit of wild geese.
Thanks, though. Mightily
Cheers
Jan
Gents,
Thank you for taking the time to consider my unruly invasion in this thread. I would not want to waste anyone's time in considering something that did not profit the assemblage - in particular the designer/creator - so please do not expend any more of your energies in pursuit of wild geese.
Thanks, though. Mightily
Cheers
Jan
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
@Scale7JB @mickoo
Gents,
Thank you for taking the time to consider my unruly invasion in this thread. I would not want to waste anyone's time in considering something that did not profit the assemblage - in particular the designer/creator - so please do not expend any more of your energies in pursuit of wild geese.
Thanks, though. Mightily
Cheers
Jan
No Problem Jan, worth a thought.
JB.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Thoughts and opinions please.
Proof of concept on this one. Which do you prefer, baring in mind the time taken too. Also, I haven't put the extra laminate on the bosses of the laminated versions, if that makes sense.
Standard method of laminated rods - took about 3 minutes.
New method involving 13 pieces - about an hour including cleaning up and making pretty.
I could have done a better job on the fluting on the ends of the rods.
I have put both types of rods on the sheet, though in a perfect world I would scrap one set in favour of a bit more space for something else on the etch (not sure what yet). Or keep both sets so the laminated rods could be used for the less experienced builder?
JB.
Proof of concept on this one. Which do you prefer, baring in mind the time taken too. Also, I haven't put the extra laminate on the bosses of the laminated versions, if that makes sense.
Standard method of laminated rods - took about 3 minutes.
New method involving 13 pieces - about an hour including cleaning up and making pretty.
I could have done a better job on the fluting on the ends of the rods.
I have put both types of rods on the sheet, though in a perfect world I would scrap one set in favour of a bit more space for something else on the etch (not sure what yet). Or keep both sets so the laminated rods could be used for the less experienced builder?
JB.
richard carr
Western Thunderer
JB
Given that your etches are aimed at the more discerning modeller who is willing to make the time to build these I would go with the 13 piece one it looks miles better.
Richard
Given that your etches are aimed at the more discerning modeller who is willing to make the time to build these I would go with the 13 piece one it looks miles better.
Richard
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
All for public opinion.
Just to show where my head is at, I found some very old pictures of the K2 I built around a decade ago.
I do believe that well detailed chunky rods make a world of difference to the look of a loco.
Pictures show the difference between what is in a standard kit and what can be achieved.
JB.
Just to show where my head is at, I found some very old pictures of the K2 I built around a decade ago.
I do believe that well detailed chunky rods make a world of difference to the look of a loco.
Pictures show the difference between what is in a standard kit and what can be achieved.
JB.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
One of the trickier parts of designing this kit was the depth of the frames just in front of the lead driving wheels. It's very shallow, and so to split the frames in line with the footplate would have made them quite weak.
A massively over-designed solution was required!
JB.
A massively over-designed solution was required!
JB.
Scale7JB
Western Thunderer
Graham, see in front of the lead drivers and above the trailing bogie wheel, look at the depth of the frames. Then divide that by two for above and below the footplate, and that makes the material minimal, if going down the current method of splitting the frames at the point that the footplate meets them.
JB.
