Something a little different

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
You may be aware that Philip, who goes by the moniker BrushType4 here, has a laser cutter. You might have seen some of his efforts in various threads on the forum. Well, a few weeks ago, Philip contacted me to see if I'd be interested in taking a look at one of his creations in complete kit form, with a view to feedback and general comments. Eventually, a neat cardboard box arrived.

What I had was a laser-cut MDF kit of Chelmsford Goods Yard Weighbridge Office, to a scale of 7mm to the foot. A lovely smell of charred wood accompanied a series of ziplock bags and a couple of sheets of exploded diagrams.

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Aside from the structural parts for the building, there were some exquisite sash windows and door parts cut from reasonable thickness paper, with a couple strips of clear plastic glazing material, and a sheet of tiles. A smaller bag contained parts for a chimney stack. It all looked very neat and tidy.

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The basic carcass went together very well. I used a basic craft PVA to glue the parts together, where an interference fit wasn't sufficiently strong. I found there was no need to file or sand the main components. The four walls build up around the floor, instantly ensuring all is square. Tabs on the front and back edges of the floor are the same size as a brick stretcher, so can be disguised readily if they remain visible after planting the finished model on a layout. The corners of the brick walls are cut to interleave to appear like the real thing.

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In a surprisingly short amount of time, four main assemblies were be built up. I opted to build the internal walls outside the main structure, which necessitated the use of some engineeri squares to keep things aligned and at right angles, so I could paint them more easily. Once the glue has set, the internal part simply slips inside the main structure. I had no fettling to do for the main structures. When dry, the assemblies are reassuringly solid and rigid during handling.

I found I needed to make a few passes with a fine file on the window cill slots, and the slots at the top of the walls where the rafters fit. The cill parts are a good interference fit and don't need any glue. The only major problem I encountered was with the brick ring that sits at the top of the chimney stack assembly. It's cut as a single open square of MDF which has to slip over the chimney. I managed to break it, as it I s very fragile. I was attempting to file the inside edge when it snapped at a mortar line. What I should have done - and indeed subsequently did - was to sand the chimney itself. I would make the suggestion to Philip that this part might be better as two parts.

Over the next few days I shall consider the tiles and what colours I'd like to paint the model. I will report on my findings in due course. One aspect I will need to look at is how to disguise the brick corner joints. I will also show how the doors and windows are assembled.

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These joints are not bad, as you can see. The mortar depth has been cut away to allow the corners to interlock. I think a dilute wash of filler of some kind will fill the gaps. Such things can come in future posts; I wanted to post my immediate thoughts to get the ball rolling.

I have to say I enjoyed building this little model. As a quick way to get a nice structure for a layout or diorama, I don't think it can be beaten. Philip has hit the mark with the design, which has been carefully thought out to make the model accurate and easy to build. Improvements I would like to see, beyond those mentioned above, would be limited to making the instructions a tiny bit clearer for some of the smaller parts, and possibly a photo of the real building so colours and details can be followed during construction.

I have no idea of how this kit fits into any pricing system for the range that's bound to follow! This model was sent to me as a sample for my comment, and I have no other links to Philip beyond that. I should add that it was agreed I could share my thoughts with Western Thunder.

It's under construction, but there is a web site which has promise of goodies to come: http://www.intentio.co.uk
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
I like the idea of the inner walls with panelling detail - gives the walls a scale thickness too.
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
Heather, I've only just seen this but thank you for your positive and constructive feedback thus far. :thumbs:

I'm looking forward to seeing your further thoughts.

On the website side of things, I've just commissioned a professional to freshen them up and bring them up to date.
 

BrushType4

Western Thunderer
It looks pretty good.
How did you learn CAD Philip?

I can say it in three words, perseverance, perseverance, perseverance!

Seriously, it's two of the above and carefully reading the tutorials here on WT and having a go.

I would really recommend QCAD as it's pretty straight forward to get going and the free trial is great.
 

flexible_coupling

Western Thunderer
Those corners are looking close-to-perfect... I can see my one-day-desired Mountain Ash shed as an actual possibility now! Good looking joints at corners was going to be the death of me...
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
Wow! A year on, and I haven't really progressed very far!

To be fair, I've been a little busy, but I decided this weekend was worth setting a side for some catching up.

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As you can see, the weighbridge hut hasn't progressed very far. I have painted the slates, and I ought to fit them soon, and I am contemplating a waft of primer to see how things lie before some serious painting takes place.

In the interim, another box appeared. This time it was the sleeper-built platelayer's hut kit.

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A very enjoyable couple of hours later, and this is also ready for some paint. The front wall has developed a slight inward bow, but that doesn't worry me too much. A sliver of paper was added in front of the chimney piece to cover the slight gap. It looks a bit like the sort of running repair that would have happened on the real thing. I am considering a little diorama with this as a run down and overgrown hut, falling apart at the edges.

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I know @BrushType4 Philip can now provide suitable cast metal chimney pots and details from the S&D range, and I'm sure I have something stashed away, but being impatient I literally rolled my own! Again, the model was simply glued together with plain hobby white glue.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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With windows and doors temporarily fitted, I dug around in my stash and found some S&D cast gutters and down pipe brackets. With some suitable aluminium tube, a bit of cutting and filing, a short while later gutter arrangements are almost ready to fit. I think I ought to paint the shell first, though.

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The roof is coming along, though the slate colour needs evening up and toning down. The watercolour washes don't work as well as I expected once all stuck in place.
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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Everything starts to look better with a coat or two of paint. It's cold in the paint shop, so rather than blow acrylic primer over the bare surfaces, I've simply started painting with enamels. I'm looking forward to detailing the bricks once the initial coats are dry.
 
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Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
After some domestic chores, nothing more relaxing than a little pointing and picking bricks out with a paintbrush.

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As with many such things, there are many ways to skin the proverbial moggie. I coated the whole thing in Humbrol matt 70, let down with a smidge of black. If a variation in colour can be achieved, this is a Good Thing. Once the base coat had dried, I mixed some earth brown, white and a dash of black, diluted it thoroughly with thinners (white spirit in this case) and let it wick into the mortar courses from a 00 sable brush.

Inevitably, blobs ended up on the bricks. Some I dabbed away, some I wiped away with my finger. Some, I left. Bricks are nothing if not variable in colour. It all depends on the clay and firing, as well as the locale. I mixed more 70 with black and white spirit, and used it in the manner of a watercolour artist, picking out individual bricks, parts of bricks, until I had a sort of randomised patchwork of original colour, lightened colour where the mortar mix had spread, and darker ones, Enamels have a tendency to dry lighter than when first painted, so the washes can be over painted to darken the area. I had intended to add some lighter orangey colours to random bricks, but I think I'll let it sit for a while before decided if further work is required.

I find this job quite relaxing, especially with something educating or entertaining to listen to while I work.
 

Wagonman

Western Thunderer
Heather, I've only just seen this but thank you for your positive and constructive feedback thus far. :thumbs:

I'm looking forward to seeing your further thoughts.

On the website side of things, I've just commissioned a professional to freshen them up and bring them up to date.



...and I'm looking forward to the article you promised for the Newsletter... :)

Richard
 

Heather Kay

Western Thunderer
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I am quite pleased with that.

Still to do, decide on a nice colour for the woodwork and door. I will leave the windows in the raw cut card, as it looks like weathered white paint. I need to plant and flash the chimney, and stick down one or two errant slates, but apart from weathering I reckon this is done. A lovely little kit.

(The floating drains are intended to sit at ground level when the building is planted.)
 
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