Spitfire's G3 Workbench

Discussion in 'G3' started by Spitfire2865, 8 December 2017.

  1. adrian

    adrian Flying Squad

    Agreed not good - hopefully nobody hurt. We had the same happen to us in some student accommodation in the bathroom. Fortunately my flatmate had got out of the bath a few minutes prior to the roof falling in otherwise it would have been a premature end to his family life. :eek:
  2. Mike W

    Mike W Western Thunderer

    Talking of dust and bringing this back to railways, having dismantled several old carriage bodies for spares, removing the roof canvas with many, many layers of old white lead paint results in clouds of unpleasant dust which gets everywhere. Although dangerous, this is perfectly legal with no controls.

    Applying for a licence to use new white lead on a carriage roof however means jumping through hoops including things like where and how you will dispose of brushes and rollers in double sealed plastic bags, whether the carriage will be stored outside where eventually the paint will wash into the watercourse etc etc

    Anyway, if for a model you ever examine a preserved carriage with wooden roof, remember that the roof finish is almost certainly not the correct canvas and white lead, for the reasons above.
  3. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Not knowing much of white lead paint, is there a decent modern alternative that gives a similar appearance over canvas?
    Not sure where I would even source it over here.
  4. spikey faz

    spikey faz Member

    Fortunately neither me, Mrs Spikey Faz or the cat
    were in the room at the time. Sadly some of the small parts I was working on have disappeared in the plaster rubble. However, my part -finished Neilson survived!


    Don't think I'll be doing any modelling for a while but will still visit Western Thunder for inspiration.

  5. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Very good to hear none were hurt. Shame we wont see much progress from you for a while. Best of luck with the housework.
    The Neilson is absolutely fantastic. The colour is very eyecatching.
  6. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Well good news, my wood has finally arrived. After 3 months of issues with the mail, I have the wood for both the L&Y D1 and D21.
    And a start on the Tintab chassis.
    I need to figure out how to cut accurate mortise and tendon joints. Would love to do this with even less glue.
    chrisb, unklian, isambardme and 7 others like this.
  7. Ian_T

    Ian_T Member

    Very nice Trevor.

    It should certainly be possible to make small mortise and tenon joints - but I use small dowel pins which work well and are much easier to fit. I wrote an article about the simple drilling jig I built for this purpose for the G3S Newsletter. If you go to the G3S website you can download a PDF of the article here:

    Gauge 3 Society

    It's article number 47 - and you do not need to be a member to download these articles by the way - the download page was made 'public' last year.


  8. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Well. Quite a bit of work for a Sunday.
    Got about half of the brake van walls done-ish.
    The wall panels are glued together as I honestly cant determine how the internal walls were secured. Plus a 1/4" iron sheet has a lot more structure than 1/4mm plasticcard.

    I even tried a bit of wood steaming to form the roof rib which I hadnt noticed fell off before I took the photo.

    Might try to find some microscope slides to do proper glass windows.
  9. Dikitriki

    Dikitriki Flying Squad

    Lovely - you're going to be using a lot of hardware on that!

    Spitfire2865 likes this.
  10. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    By my estimate several months ago, itll take about 100 rivets and 200 bolts.
    unklian likes this.
  11. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    I have 4 walls on my brakevan.
    So many bolts.

    But Im more happy with my finding of absolutely tiny hinges. If anyones interested, I got them from miniatures.com (item 4242) but they are available from other stores under "No. 5 3/16 x 3/16 hinges".
    They scale fairy well to G3. The nails are only .5mm thick each, so a pain to work with.

    Next big job is the floor.
    lankytank, mswjr, chrisb and 8 others like this.
  12. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Not feeling very wordy tonight, so Ill let the photos do most of the talking.

    Doors on. 20180325_212740-1.jpg

    And they work. 20180325_212756-1.jpg

    Internal walls. 20180325_212808-1.jpg I need to further study on how the benches were done. Then I have to build them. I will need more hinges.
    Last edited: 27 March 2018
    AJC, unklian, chrisb and 9 others like this.
  13. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    The cabin is coming along slowly.
    Its all based on the works drawing and internal sketch in Wagons Vol 2.
    Dont really understand the low platform at the end but there is definitely something there on the drawings that is lower than the bench seat.
    I have more hinges coming soon, so I can fix the bench lid on place.

    Small partitions form the door catches. Works pretty well.

    Rather like this view through the end window. Will be a shame to lose this after glazing.

    Should start working on the braked end soon. Several boxes and another bench at least.

    And Ive designed and ordered some lasercut wood parts for the roof ribs and footboards.
  14. Steph Dale

    Steph Dale Western Thunderer

    Could it be a sandbox, perhaps?

  15. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    You are correct. There is a sandbox at each end, but oddly only takes up about a square foot in opposite corners. However this low step appears to extend the entire width of the cabin. I cant tell on the drawing for the braked end, but Id assume similar.
    Could it have been for weights?
  16. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Ive got the side lamp sockets done.
    (Yes that lamp is straight, the base bracket isnt though. Out by about 1/4mil.)
    Im debating whether or not to cut the hole behind the fixed lamp cover. It would never be seen(inside or out), but I would know.

    Ive also got the door window sashes made with insertable glazing for later. Sadly poor forethought doesnt allow me to actually drop them into the door. Quite sad about that actually.
    Rob Pulham, AJC, JohnFla and 8 others like this.
  17. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Got the main horizontal handrails on. And 8 more still to go.
    Somehow I did the first 3 on the first try, but the 4th took several attempts.
    Luckily the rest shouldnt be as difficult. I say that now...
  18. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Well, slight break from the brake as I wait for my roof ribs.
    So I got on with the D1.
    Ive had the chassis built for a few months, but the past couple days Ive added headstocks and walls. Its gained a mm wobble but hopefully that will get taken up by the springing.
    Floor and frame bits left to add. Im going to try a prototypical coupling spring as I remembered to drill some holes in the crossbeams before headstocks were glued on.

    And a bit of future work, I bought some kits from the much appreciated Mike Williams.
    A pair of his LNWR D12 bolsters and the Midland D305 dropside. Beautiful mouldings with many many small details which are honestly quite intimidating all together.
    My scratchbuilding seems less daunting in comparison!
    Rob Pulham, Arty, Ian_T and 6 others like this.
  19. Simon

    Simon Flying Squad

    This is beautiful work, and opening doors too:bowdown:

    One very tiny observation though, regarding the blanking plates over where the fixed lamp used to go.

    To my eyes they don't quite convince as their edges have the characteristic "upturn" of styrene sheet when it deforms under cutting. A few moments with files and some wet and dry will render them believable. And I think you ought to bend your exquisite lamp bracket "square" and re- fix it, especially after going to all the trouble to make it.

    I hesitate to mention this but you are creating such a beautiful model that it seems a pity to let these minor points go when you are working towards a superb museum quality record of the past.

    Spitfire2865 likes this.
  20. Spitfire2865

    Spitfire2865 Western Thunderer

    Thank you.
    Yes the blanking plates need to be retouched. I never like working in styrene as it always leaves little things like that.
    The lamps are yet to be permanently fixed, so I can always reshape them. Problem is even in G3 a lamp socket is a tiny thing so its very fiddly to solder. Hopefully by reflowing the solder I can get the rivets a little more square.