7mm Steph's Southern workbench - Another from Mr Adams

[Overseer]

Steph

I have also had digital scans from the NRM. The drawings I wanted had to be scanned as they had not been microfilmed. I wouldn't say they were cheap but they arrived when they said they would and the quality is great - they are full colour scans of 1897 Neilson drawings for the Uganda Railway F class loco and tender, about 18Mb TIFF files.

 

[Steph Dale]

Thanks guys,

In the end I went for the digital and hardcopy option. Previously I've only ordered hardcopies from the microfiche and generally found that the A3 copies are entirely adequate for my purposes and entirely legible if scanned and blown up at home or read with a magnifying glass.
This is therefore the first time I've ordered from the original drawings and for the digitised copies.
From what you've said I expect to be content.

I ordered both the Frame Arrangement and Pipe and Rod as a quick check through the Eastleigh* works list revealed no GA for the M9, nor a sensible number slot for one to go in. It's entirely possible that no GA was produced, just drawings for the parts changes; the frames (modified to take steam reverse), the plumbing (new steam and water circuits for the reverser) and the smokebox (as previously discussed in this thread)

Hopefully back to the workbench this evening!
Steph

* Yes, the Eastleigh list also contains the surviving Nine Elms works drawings.

 

[Steph Dale]

While I'm waiting for the drawings to arrive I've been cracking on with a few bits and pieces to move the project along. I have now done the following, some of which you'll already know;

Made three electrically split axles. One is a crank axle, like this, one is insulated with a length of GRP rod, like this, and one has been insulated with a hardened steel pin. More on that latter one at some other point I shouldn't wonder...

I've also started sorting the wheels, with the spokes thinned. The balance weights will be cut out (not provided in the kit), fitted and filled, followed by 10BA crank pins and then running the necessary wires up and down various spokes.

Started cleaning up the castings too: so, so many castings...

Other aspects of the research have continued as I battle on with the many detail variations witihin this small class.

Oh, and for an added touch of perversity, I've flattened, annealed and re-rolled the boiler. Inside out.

So the mojo seems to be plumbed in, fired up and working. I just wish I had the time to do a bit more...

Steph

 

[Steph Dale]

For the last few working evenings I've been fiddling the wheels, as mentioned above. They're now very nearly finished, with just one job to do. More of which anon...

First up, thinning the spokes (before on the left; after on the right):


Then the balance weights were worked out, cut out and attached using thick superglue. Just a couple of spots in vital places to start off with, before running a fillet round and then setting the whole lot off with accelerator.


The back of the balance weights are then filled with Milliput. I tend to use a contrasting colour so in this case broke out the Yellow-Grey rather than the White I normally use. The filler is packed in with the dental probe shown below. I then put a length of 0.9 or 1.0mm wire in the pin vice and ball off the end of the wire on emery paper. Used wet it's the perfect sculpting tool for this job, the ball end allowing fine fillets to the formed where the balance weight meets the spoke:


They don't look great from behind until the excess filler is cut away, after it's all cured.


A little cleaning up of any excess filler and things are starting to look pretty tidy:



Gratuitous shot of crank axle. At this stage the balance weights in the wheels are starting to have an effect and balance out the crank webs.

The wheels are then wired as per my normal method.


10BA x 1/2" screws (crankpins) fitted using Loctite 603. The heads have been slightly counter sunk


The last job (hopefully tomorrow) will be to wire the screw head to the tyre, completing the electrical circuit and allowing the rods to become live, forming a redundant path and building in a little additional reliability. I need the Loctite to cure before doing it though...

If I'd finished the coupling rods at this stage the crankpin bushes would probably have been trimmed for length and permanently fitted now. But I haven't, so they'll have to wait a while.

Steph

 

[Dog Star]

Steph, as each crank pin is "in-line" with a spoke, how about running the "shorting" wire from the brass centre to the rim via the spoke adjacent to the crankpin and thereby connect the crankpin to the tyre / boss?

regards, Graham

 

[Steph Dale]

Steph, as each crank pin is "in-line" with a spoke, how about running the "shorting" wire from the brass centre to the rim via the spoke adjacent to the crankpin and thereby connect the crankpin to the tyre / boss?

regards, Graham

Graham,

It's a good call in principle - but you can see that the crankpin aligns with the point of the square hole in the wheel centre. Therefore there's not much meat in the brass centre to pick up on with the wire. After c*cking up a set of wheels when I was first working out how to do split axles in 0 I've stuck with the method here using two wires.

Of course, others may well have no problems with using a single wire as you suggest. Most people tend to solder the wire(s) into the brass hub for example; I don't as I've never really made it work successfully without disturbing the location of the brass hub by partial melting of the nylon moulding...

And just for the record, with my HO stuff I tend to use a couple of wires to join hub and rim, but they're only 5A fusewire. If I then need to wire to a crankpin I use another length of 5A wire from the 'pin to the rim.

Steph

 

[Steph Dale]

Well, actually two jobs to do...

To wire the crankpins I started off by using a 10BA steel washer and nut on each crankpin screw to hold them in place if they should overheat:


The back of the central spoke, crankpin screw head and rim are then slotted with a carborundum disc in a mini-drill. The wire is then shaped and soldered in, starting with the screw head...:


There was one other job, which was to deepen the countersink in the front of the wheels so that the axle screws seated flush. It's not shown as I couldn't find a meaningful way to demonstrate it, but there was nothing particularly clever about the technique.

A quick, aggressive wash with Cif and toothbrush got rid of any excess flux and filler.

Ready for the chassis:


Hopefully the drawings will arrive from the NRM shortly so I can crack on, but in the meantime I've still got a few jobs I can do to progress things. Coupling rods, crankpin bushes for a start...

And after reading Ian's G6 thread this evening, I realise I've still got a few odd parts to get.

Steph

 

[Dikitriki]

Steph

I need to countersink the axle screws on my Patriot. Can you tell me exactly what countersink I need to acquire please.

Thanks.

Richard

 

[Steph Dale]

I need to countersink the axle screws on my Patriot. Can you tell me exactly what countersink I need to acquire please.

Richard,

RDG tools (www.rdgtools.co.uk); an item which they describe (in capitals) as:
HSS COUNTERSINK 5.0MM HEAD, Ref: 242101, HSS COUNTERSINK 5.0MM HEAD, 90 DEGREE ANGLE

Steph

 

[Dikitriki]

Obliged

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Steph,

all looking rather good. I have used a similar technique when shorting out Slater's wheels (thankfully, wheels are available) but where the wire is fixed to the rim, I drill through the rim at approx. 45 degrees at the transition point of tread and flange, apply a slightly larger drill - hand held, to act as a countersink bit then bend the wire to suit cut it so that it is slightly proud and apply a dab of solder to the end then file back flush with the wheel tread. I started doing this as I found that when the wire was fixed to the back of the flange, there was a tendency for it to become detached as it had to be filed almost flat to avoid hitting anything on the chassis and there was no 'meat' in the joint. This way, there is no chance of the wire becoming detached..

cheers

Mike

 

[Steph Dale]

Obliged

Welcome

Hi Steph,

all looking rather good. I have used a similar technique when shorting out Slater's wheels (thankfully, wheels are available) but where the wire is fixed to the rim, I drill through the rim at approx. 45 degrees at the transition point of tread and flange, apply a slightly larger drill - hand held, to act as a countersink bit then bend the wire to suit cut it so that it is slightly proud and apply a dab of solder to the end then file back flush with the wheel tread. I started doing this as I found that when the wire was fixed to the back of the flange, there was a tendency for it to become detached as it had to be filed almost flat to avoid hitting anything on the chassis and there was no 'meat' in the joint. This way, there is no chance of the wire becoming detached..

cheers

Mike

Mike,

The end of the wire is actually located in a very deep notch in the back of the wheel rim, the photo above shows the solder joint before cleaning up.

Steph

 

[AJC]

The shorting technique is very interesting - I've used the fuse wire approach in 4mm very effectively (and must try it again on my next loco build); it looks much easier in the larger scale, mechanically at least. The additional heat required to get a bond must be a challenge. I also like the properly modelled balance weights - even in 4mm this makes a significant visual difference - though I generally go a bit further and make the backs in plastic too providing there's clearance on the back of the wheel. The tool for cleaning up looks the business as well; an idea worth borrowing. Thank you.

Adam

 

[Ressaldar]

Hi Steph,

thanks for putting me right.

cheers

Mike

 

[Steph Dale]

The drawings arrived today and they'll take a bit of digesting, but I'm pleased that between them (and the GA of the original locos in the back of the Bradley book) I now have info on all the details I need. As an example I now know exactly how the steam reverse fits in and what the cab controls for it are.

As a result a couple more Laurie Griffin castings will find their way into the box for the G6 (injector steam valves, steam reverser) and I'll work out how to actually progress it. Coupling rods next, I shouldn't wonder.

It appears that clearance around the chassis details (particularly the reverser) will be a bit tight, but coincide with some odd ideas on chassis set-up and a thought or two around 'scale weight'. More on all that soon, once I've worked it out!

Right, back to the Western...

Steph

 

[Steph Dale]

Oh dear, was it really October since I last posted? It was only when talking to Dikitriki at Bristol show on Sunday that I realised I hadn't posted any of my projects for a while...

Anyhoo, currently the workbench is taken up with a rescue job in hand at the National Collection of Southern Railway Model Brake Vans (or NCSRMBV; catchy eh?). This poor ABS d.1579 25t 'Pillbox' came to grief in the recent re-ordering of the workshop. It was nearly complete when packed, I failed to hear the crunch and when unpacked afterwards I realised two things; 1. 70degree lowmelt solder is utter rubbish and 2. I had a terrific opportunity to 'do more' with this kit, as the chassis was back in kit form.

A pleasant afternoon followed, blasting the kit parts with water from a freshly-boiled kettle soon got rid of most of the lowmelt solder on the parts and was also responsible for the premature failure of a couple of bonded joints. This gave me the opportunity to replace the w-irons with something a little more representative. A quick run out with my nice new soldering station soon had it lined up and the main frame back together with some 145 degree solder. That won't come apart again.

And so to the state of play this evening. After a particularly trying day at work, it was great to be able to tinker with a few bits:


As you can see the cabin survived the proceedings and the frame is now back together. I'm just tinkering with the W-irons. The old set (which I think may be for a BR 20 tonner) I knew weren't correct and, to be honest, the new versions still aren't, but being a plain plate type (from Slater's LMS 'van) are more representative of later vehicles to this design. I've also made the base of the ballast box in styrene, with a slightly cheeky fiddle:


Which means it can fit around the soldered brake levers:


I'm on to doing the safety loops, w-iron spacers and brakegear next. Some of this will have to be scratchbuilt; unfortunately the triangular brake cross-frames didn't survive and so will need replacement and the safety loops weren't part of the kit (or the Parkside one for that matter). I've got all the brake shoe assemblies, even if one of them is broken (it's repairable, so I'm not too worried). The next shot shows one of the W-iron and brake shoe assemblies lined up, so you can get a feel for what I'm trying to accomplish; even if they're the wrong way round in the photo:


Incidentally, NCSRMBV is looking to make further acquisitions. I'd like to model one of the uneven-planked 'Pillboxes' (d.1579 or d.1582) and can't find a kit of one; does anyone have an ABS list handy and could check for me? As an alternative, is anyone doing good deals on Parkside Dundas kits at the moment? I'm not worried about potentially re-scribing the planking on a plastic kit...

Steph

 

[daifly]

The latest ABS catalogue that I have lists both Dias 1579 (kit O.890) & 1582 (kit O.800) but only the 1579 is currently 'available' at £40.50. It's described as '25T brakevan 1930'.
If you want a scanned copy of the catalogue then PM me with your email address.

Cheers

Dave

 

[Steph Dale]

The latest ABS catalogue that I have lists both Dias 1579 (kit O.890) & 1582 (kit O.800) but only the 1579 is currently 'available' at £40.50. It's described as '25T brakevan 1930'.
If you want a scanned copy of the catalogue then PM me with your email address.

Cheers

Dave

Thanks Dave, that's great. The kit I've got is item O.890, so I'll just have to keep an eye out for t'other one (which appears to be the version I'm after).

Steph

 

[Steph Dale]

Postie was kind enough to drop off a recent acquisition today. One of the Meteor Models kits for the LSWR T1 class 0-4-4t. Now with William Ascough at Ace Kits I'd heard good reports and indeed seen a model made up very well; it's also a loco I've wanted for a while, even if neither I nor the guys involved in the layout could work out exactly why.

Anyway, it's an attractive beast in the purposeful style so obvious in Adams' locos. So, with a cuppa and reference material to hand I opened the box with some fairly obvious expectations.

Initial impressions weren't great; mainly down to the very heavily tarnished etches (any ideas how I can get them back super-shinyness? Viakal?). I suspect this is one of Tim's original Meteor kits that's perhaps been hanging around in his garage since the mid '90s. I can't imagine he ever sold many...!

Anyhow, once over the condition of the etches it doesn't start to look too bad. There's the odd moment of clever stuff here, the machined acrylic stretcher for the bogie implies split axles without pain adn the kit claims to cover off all variants of the prototype, that were originally built in 5 batches under two different class descriptions (T1 and F6). However reading the instructions and description confused me somewhat until I started digging with the help of Bradley and realised it was actually the instructions' author who was confused.

So I won't be building this according to the instructions (I think it would be a might tricky to try and follow them) there will be plenty of attention from Laurie Griffin's catalogue and a slightly whacky drive system, if I should get my finger out.

Anyway, in the interests of your amusement here's what greeted me in the box after unpacking:


So yes, that's some grubby etches, reasonable castings, LBSCR buffers (eh?), turned frame spacers (eh?) and otherwise a near-total absence of details.

More soon...

Steph

 

[Buckjumper]

I too am fond of the T1s - though truth be told most of Mr Adams' LSWR engines, and not just because of the Stratford connection. Of course he kept in close contact with the GE, had a good relationship with his successors there.

I have a Meteor O2 which almost complete (I wish I knew when I started it that Jim's Connoisseur one was in the pipeline), and by the sounds of your description, and looking at the photos of your T1 kit they're to the same spec. I also ended up with a pile of Laurie's castings, including the P&P pack (mainland version), though Eastsidepilot Col turned me up a lovely pair of air cylinders for the running plate.

Given unlimited time I'd love to do something with a T1, O2 and G6 in the LSWR period, but can't really justify such a diversion - the LSW was one of the few main line railways terminating in London with which the GE had no physical connection.

Neat Viakal gently brushed on with a toothbrush and then rinsed in warm water will bring the tarnished etches up all sparkly and ready to solder. I also use Barkeeper's Friend mixed into a stiff paste if the etches have got a bit gritty to touch, and they come up just as shiny.

Instructions? Next to useless and best ignored, though the diagram was useful.