Stubby47's Buildings Workbench

Discussion in 'Workbenches, including workshop techniques.' started by Stubby47, 22 August 2018.

  1. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    Hi all.

    Rather than add a repeat of what can be found elsewhere on the internet, I thought I'd just add my new / newer buildings to a workbench-type thread.

    These first images are of a little shed for my "Tinner's Forge" layout. I'm adding some more details, starting with a chimney.




    Next will be guttering and a water barrel, lead flashing on the lean-to roof join, a repaint to the door and some door furniture.

  2. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    Ooh, hello! Another new member from another place. Nice to see you, and a good start with lots of piccies.

    Stubby47 likes this.
  3. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    Thanks Heather. I've had a browse of some of your postings - some very impressive work.
  4. NHY 581

    NHY 581 Western Thunderer


    Fancy seeing you here............

    Nice shed BTW.....

    Pencarrow and Stubby47 like this.
  5. Heather Kay

    Heather Kay Western Thunderer

    Thank you. I often say I wouldn’t be where I am today without the help and encouragement from the rest of the members here. I say it because it’s true.
    jonte and NHY 581 like this.
  6. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Western Thunderer

    Welcome to WT Stubby:thumbs:
    Stubby47 likes this.
  7. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    Meanwhile, for my Cameo Challenge layout, I've started one of these:
  8. farnetti

    farnetti Western Thunderer

    These first images are of a little shed for my "Tinner's Forge" layout. I'm adding some more details, starting with a chimney.

    I love the green gunk on the lower pebbledash, totally authentic.

    Stubby47 likes this.
  9. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    I've now built an inner frame for the Nissen hut.

    The inner skin will be a sheet of 10thou plasticard, over which I'll add the scale sized pieces of corrugated sheet.
    I'm toying with over-laying this with thin kitchen foil.

    Last edited: 24 August 2018
    Rob Pulham, AJC and Pencarrow like this.
  10. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    It's dry-brushed green enamel. The pebbledash is just a piece of mount board with the top layer peeled off.
    farnetti likes this.
  11. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    First couple of coats of paint for the Nissen hut end walls and the shed chimney.

    Rob Pulham and AJC like this.
  12. NHY 581

    NHY 581 Western Thunderer

    Hi Stubbers.

    The challenge that this will present is maintaining the wriggly tin cross section which will want to flatten as it is curved.

    How will you achieve this?

  13. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    Stern words...

    If that doesn't work, heat and prebending/rolling the flat sheet.

    I've got a curved roof on the n/g loco shed, and that's stayed in place, so a similar method should work again.
    NHY 581 likes this.
  14. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    A bit more paint

    Rob Pulham likes this.
  15. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    I decided in the end to use laminated card for the shell.


    As yet, the end wall is just placed in position - I will finish & paint the roof before fixing them in.
    Paul Cambridge, AJC and chrisb like this.
  16. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    As an experiment, a largish piece of Slater's corrugated plasticard was hand rolled to a slight curve. It was then further rolled around a suitable cylinder (it happened to be a white board marker), then a standard pencil.

    This gives a reasonable curve to the sheet, which was then cut up into scale-sized sheets (10'6" x 6').


    Two of these were then stuck on with pva (Anita's Tacky glue, from The Range (other glues & shops are available)) to the card shell and secured with tight-enough fitting elastic bands.


    Once these are dry, I'll see how well the fit to the required shape. It might mean more rolling around pens/pencils to make the curve even more pronounced. The upper, centre-line sections will need to be a tad over the 42mm long standard pieces, to give a reasonable overlap - this of course can then be stuck with liquid poly to form a tighter join.
    Last edited: 31 August 2018
    Rob Pulham and Jon Nazareth like this.
  17. simond

    simond Western Thunderer


    might it be worth not overlapping the pieces?

    I guess they are way more than scale thickness, and the overlap might therefore look rather over-obvious & clunky.

    Would it perhaps be better to butt-joint the pieces, with a thin layer under the lower edge of the upper piece, to push it out and thus simulate the overlap? You'd need the overlapped part to be smaller, of course.

    I've never done this, so please treat as a suggestion rather than a recommendation! It won't be as strong as your method, not sure if that is an issue.

    AJC likes this.
  18. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    Hi Simon, you are quite right, the overlapped ridge will look very large, especially as the sheets are much flatter on the rear so don't sit perfectly in the grooves.
    I've only added the two lower pieces so far to help with this sort of conundrum. If the overlap is better suited to overlaid tin foil, pressed into the grooves, then a single pieces of plasticard could be used to cover the whole semi-circle, in scale 6' widths, or indeed a single piece for the whole roof.

    I've filed the underside of the sheets before, to effect a rusted, eaten-away finish, though I suspect these pieces of tin would be regularly checked and maintained. It might be possible to thin the edges down to a reasonable thickness - apart from the end pieces this would not be visible.

    I need to try things out a bit more.

    This building will be at the front-centre of the layout, acting as a partial view-blocker for the n/g line, so there's no hiding place for shoddy work.
    Rob Pulham and simond like this.
  19. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    I really quite like the idea of covering the whole hut with a single layer of corrugated plasticard, then putting scale sized pieces of foil over it. I think that might be an answer to a question I hadn’t got around to asking!

    At some point, I need to model a GW sand furnace. I think I now know how to!

    Rob Pulham and Stubby47 like this.
  20. Stubby47

    Stubby47 Western Thunderer

    Coming soon.... a 7mm scale static caravan.... (for those who've not seen my work elsewhere, I have a dubious reputation for making caravans, and, er, toilets...)

    The main shell has been laser cut from 3mm ply and it will be clad in plasticard.