Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Looks like what Robin and Adrian have suggested, thank you.
7mm The Old Man's Workbench - tales of a rivet side
- Thread starter Dog Star
- Start date
Jordan
Mid-Western Thunderer
Err, it's Western Rifleman actually and the windscreens were microscope slides, approx 1mm thick. Not sure I'd use them again as it was pretty tedious getting them the right shape (diesels with rectangular windscreens would probably be easier). I did try cover slips for the side windows, but gave up after breaking too many!
Regards
Dan
*note to Self* Pay more attention and don't research in a rush.... 
Dan Randall
Western Thunderer
It was indeed me and they are available to others, but I'm out of stock at the moment. If there's sufficient demand, I could get another batch done.
If anybody wants one or more sets, please PM me and let me know how many sets you're after.
Regards
Dan
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I thought that I was doing rather well with glazing the Class 37 cab when two matters disturbed the peace and quiet:-
[1] turning the cab over to do the second side caused the first side glazing to exhibit an interest in gravity;
[2] the cabs required more glazing than provided in the kit.
From peering at the cab glazing under a magnifying glass I could see that the glazing which did not fall out had a glue bead between the cab and the rear face of the "glass"... and the glazing which did fall out appeared to have glue only on the front face of the "glass". So looks like I did not use enough canopy glue or maybe I ought to have made a second application after the first had set - I admit to having been a bit mean with the initial application of glue as I did not want the stuff running out of the join and over the face of the "glass".
The Class 37 cabs have "portholes" in the doors of the front and rear bulkheads and our kit did not have any parts for those six circular recesses. I checked with Martin and his kit did have such parts... so I telephoned Laurie at JLTRT. The result was a sheet of glazing with the circular panes - so there are two different glazing sheets for the Class 37, with and without the round parts. The sheet without the six round parts is marked "JLTRT Class 37 2008" and the sheet without the cab door glazing is marked... with nothing!
So if you have or buy a JLTRT 37 kit and do not have the round parts for the bulkheads then telephone Laurie and ask for the old fashioned sheet.
regards, Graham
[1] turning the cab over to do the second side caused the first side glazing to exhibit an interest in gravity;
[2] the cabs required more glazing than provided in the kit.
From peering at the cab glazing under a magnifying glass I could see that the glazing which did not fall out had a glue bead between the cab and the rear face of the "glass"... and the glazing which did fall out appeared to have glue only on the front face of the "glass". So looks like I did not use enough canopy glue or maybe I ought to have made a second application after the first had set - I admit to having been a bit mean with the initial application of glue as I did not want the stuff running out of the join and over the face of the "glass".
The Class 37 cabs have "portholes" in the doors of the front and rear bulkheads and our kit did not have any parts for those six circular recesses. I checked with Martin and his kit did have such parts... so I telephoned Laurie at JLTRT. The result was a sheet of glazing with the circular panes - so there are two different glazing sheets for the Class 37, with and without the round parts. The sheet without the six round parts is marked "JLTRT Class 37 2008" and the sheet without the cab door glazing is marked... with nothing!
So if you have or buy a JLTRT 37 kit and do not have the round parts for the bulkheads then telephone Laurie and ask for the old fashioned sheet.
regards, Graham
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I had intended to include this post in the Telford thread as that is where the parts came into my possession... and then I thought ""what is wrong with that "S7 - an odd sort of WB" thread?"" and so here we are.
I was looking at some tasty brass wagon kits on the Ragstone Models stand when Andy ("DEMU" to WTers) thrust a packet into my hand with a greeting something like "this will be of interest to you". And he was correct, very interesting to me as Andy knows that we are constructing a LNER 8 wheel streamlined, non-corridor, tender. So here is a pikkie of the wee bag as received from Andy.
Well that went as well as can be expected... so now you know what to ask for when next queuing in front of the Ragstone stand. What was so special about the bag? Nothing - it is the contents which are of interest! If you are fighting a Finney tender kit then you will have come across the simple instruction "bend to shape and fit" for the water tank vents at the front of the tender. These vents are meant to be made from brass rod and I have had several dismal attempts at following those instructions - annealing the brass rod helped, the curve at the top of the vent and the 3D origami bending of the pipework defeated me. So here is a photo of what is in the bag.
Great as these fittings are, the pipe does not include the flange where the pipe is bolted onto the side plate of the coal hopper - you have to use the etched flanges which are included in the Finney kit. Now etched flanges have a cusp on the circumference and that cusp has to be removed... reach for the pin vice and insert flange... then start grovelling on the carpet to find the little b****r which went ping.
Fear not, take a piece of the rod provided by Mr Finney for the vent and file a reduced section on one end. Place washer over end of rod and solder in place... voila! a makeshift handle which enables the washer to be rotated against some 180 / 240 / 400 wet-and-dry to remove the cusp.
The pipes and flanges have been fitted to the model, it is just too dark to photograph so for now you will have to make do with the instructions "bend to shape and fit".
regards, Graham
BTW - I have fitted the vent pipes to a Finney 7mm kit for a streamlined, non-corridor, tender and that is the type of tender which is described on Andy's label. I have no idea if these vent pipes are suitable for any other version of LNER 8-wheel tender. We may be lucky and Andy might just come along with information to help in this matter.
I was looking at some tasty brass wagon kits on the Ragstone Models stand when Andy ("DEMU" to WTers) thrust a packet into my hand with a greeting something like "this will be of interest to you". And he was correct, very interesting to me as Andy knows that we are constructing a LNER 8 wheel streamlined, non-corridor, tender. So here is a pikkie of the wee bag as received from Andy.
Well that went as well as can be expected... so now you know what to ask for when next queuing in front of the Ragstone stand. What was so special about the bag? Nothing - it is the contents which are of interest! If you are fighting a Finney tender kit then you will have come across the simple instruction "bend to shape and fit" for the water tank vents at the front of the tender. These vents are meant to be made from brass rod and I have had several dismal attempts at following those instructions - annealing the brass rod helped, the curve at the top of the vent and the 3D origami bending of the pipework defeated me. So here is a photo of what is in the bag.
Great as these fittings are, the pipe does not include the flange where the pipe is bolted onto the side plate of the coal hopper - you have to use the etched flanges which are included in the Finney kit. Now etched flanges have a cusp on the circumference and that cusp has to be removed... reach for the pin vice and insert flange... then start grovelling on the carpet to find the little b****r which went ping.
Fear not, take a piece of the rod provided by Mr Finney for the vent and file a reduced section on one end. Place washer over end of rod and solder in place... voila! a makeshift handle which enables the washer to be rotated against some 180 / 240 / 400 wet-and-dry to remove the cusp.
The pipes and flanges have been fitted to the model, it is just too dark to photograph so for now you will have to make do with the instructions "bend to shape and fit".
regards, Graham
BTW - I have fitted the vent pipes to a Finney 7mm kit for a streamlined, non-corridor, tender and that is the type of tender which is described on Andy's label. I have no idea if these vent pipes are suitable for any other version of LNER 8-wheel tender. We may be lucky and Andy might just come along with information to help in this matter.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
So here we are... photography is not one of my better achievements hence one vent pipe is in focus and the other is hiding in the corner.
The photo shows how fitting this piece is like an entrance exam for Black Belt in Origami.... the bends go in three directions and the visual effect depends upon getting the pipe in just the right place.
Aka - the vertical section needs to be vertical so that the clamp plate is horizontal and covers the location mark on the rear side of the tender front face.... and the pipe needs to enter the coal hopper at right-angles in orthogonal directions.
So why are these items so worthwhile? Several reasons.... the turnover bend at the top is very tight and I found this difficult to bend with the annealed wire as supplied.... forming a reasonable clamp plate that looks as if it could do the job.... the representation of the two nuts.... ease of soldering the item in place.
If there are any downsides to this offering... the pipe as supplied is too long by 2mm or so and touches the rear of the outer tank side. This needs to be cut-off after preliminary bending of the pipe otherwise the excess (in contact with the outer tank wall) prevents the vertical section from being vertical.
Great stuff Andy, thank you, Graham
The photo shows how fitting this piece is like an entrance exam for Black Belt in Origami.... the bends go in three directions and the visual effect depends upon getting the pipe in just the right place.
Aka - the vertical section needs to be vertical so that the clamp plate is horizontal and covers the location mark on the rear side of the tender front face.... and the pipe needs to enter the coal hopper at right-angles in orthogonal directions.
So why are these items so worthwhile? Several reasons.... the turnover bend at the top is very tight and I found this difficult to bend with the annealed wire as supplied.... forming a reasonable clamp plate that looks as if it could do the job.... the representation of the two nuts.... ease of soldering the item in place.
If there are any downsides to this offering... the pipe as supplied is too long by 2mm or so and touches the rear of the outer tank side. This needs to be cut-off after preliminary bending of the pipe otherwise the excess (in contact with the outer tank wall) prevents the vertical section from being vertical.
Great stuff Andy, thank you, Graham
Buckjumper
Flying Squad
Very good, and nice castings from Andy. Intersting to see the Finney tender - the David Andrews tender I'm pairing behind the Finney A3 has a lot less rivet detail in the coal space, but does at least come with some nice cast brass pipes.
Useful tip in the previous post on how to remove the cusp from the washer - simple, but effective.
Useful tip in the previous post on how to remove the cusp from the washer - simple, but effective.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
One has to ask... why does a Finney A3 get to pull a DA tender?
Buckjumper
Flying Squad
Because Finney doesn't do the New Build non-corridor type paired with Hyperion in 1935.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
If you think that bending the rod is difficult - and I d0 - then just wait until you try the cab roof of the A4. I have been summoning courage to tackle the roof for several weeks... and spent most of yesterday with a few pieces, some string and sticky plaster trying to work out how to get the parts to fit and fit correctly first time. My reading of the instructions and drawings is that there is ample scope for a c**k-up... so in the end I rang Mr.Finney and asked the simple question. I got a simple answer and one which looks to be correct. You shall have to hold your breath until later today...
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
The Cab Roof... a novelette in three posts.
This photo shows the jig upon which the cab roof is assembled... the three upright sections represent the steel angle which stiffens the prototype roof, the uprights are cut away from the base of the jig when the roof is complete.
Here is the first piece to be attached to the roof - the rivet / nut strips which define how the prototype is assembled. The strip has been rolled to the roof curve and tinned. The overall length of this strip is tight for the distance between the front and back ribs of the jig.
Here the rivet / nut strip has been positioned in place (underneath the cab roof) and adjusted to sit centrally (left - right) with respect to the top layer. The two are held together by some sticky stuff... I just cannot remember the name of this material.
The next photo is of the same stage from underneath and shows that I do follow my own advice... I have used permanent marker to outline the area where the top layer of the roof is to be tinned. In case the niggle has passed you by... the big question is "where does the rivet strip go relative to the cab front?" OK, the answer is.... about 50 thou.
Mr Finney explained that the cab front was flush with the roof... and that a 7mm scale drawing is supplied with the kit - the drawing might be to 7mm scale, just that neither the drawing nor the instructions give any help in placing the rivet strip. So, I measured the thickness of the cab front and the thickness of the jig (which provides the "angle / rib" for the front join between cab and roof) and got an answer of 18th + 9th + 18th, total of 45 thou. (the 9th comes from the half-etch of the front window frame). I set the digital vernier to 50 thou and adjusted the location of the rivet strip to provide a 50 thou rebate (measured at right angles to the edge of the roof). Simples? not when I have spent days agonising over how to get these two pieces joined!
Here is the underneath of the roof after tinning where the rivet / nut strip is to be joined.
The last photo for tonight shows the roof and rivet strip ready for the first solder tack... why the coffee stirrer you ask. The roof layer and the rivet strip are half etch so each piece is just 9 thou thick - pressing down on the roof whilst soldering the strip would have changed the radius of the roof so I needed some way of supporting the lower layer in the initial stages of soldering the two parts. The coffee stirrer is deep enough that the point of the "Vee" is resting on the strip whilst the roof layer is supported by the "tacky blobs". The initial tack was made at the point of the "Vee" and I then seamed from the point towards the free end of the strip (supporting the strip on the stirrer).
regards, Graham
This photo shows the jig upon which the cab roof is assembled... the three upright sections represent the steel angle which stiffens the prototype roof, the uprights are cut away from the base of the jig when the roof is complete.
Here is the first piece to be attached to the roof - the rivet / nut strips which define how the prototype is assembled. The strip has been rolled to the roof curve and tinned. The overall length of this strip is tight for the distance between the front and back ribs of the jig.
Here the rivet / nut strip has been positioned in place (underneath the cab roof) and adjusted to sit centrally (left - right) with respect to the top layer. The two are held together by some sticky stuff... I just cannot remember the name of this material.
The next photo is of the same stage from underneath and shows that I do follow my own advice... I have used permanent marker to outline the area where the top layer of the roof is to be tinned. In case the niggle has passed you by... the big question is "where does the rivet strip go relative to the cab front?" OK, the answer is.... about 50 thou.
Mr Finney explained that the cab front was flush with the roof... and that a 7mm scale drawing is supplied with the kit - the drawing might be to 7mm scale, just that neither the drawing nor the instructions give any help in placing the rivet strip. So, I measured the thickness of the cab front and the thickness of the jig (which provides the "angle / rib" for the front join between cab and roof) and got an answer of 18th + 9th + 18th, total of 45 thou. (the 9th comes from the half-etch of the front window frame). I set the digital vernier to 50 thou and adjusted the location of the rivet strip to provide a 50 thou rebate (measured at right angles to the edge of the roof). Simples? not when I have spent days agonising over how to get these two pieces joined!
Here is the underneath of the roof after tinning where the rivet / nut strip is to be joined.
The last photo for tonight shows the roof and rivet strip ready for the first solder tack... why the coffee stirrer you ask. The roof layer and the rivet strip are half etch so each piece is just 9 thou thick - pressing down on the roof whilst soldering the strip would have changed the radius of the roof so I needed some way of supporting the lower layer in the initial stages of soldering the two parts. The coffee stirrer is deep enough that the point of the "Vee" is resting on the strip whilst the roof layer is supported by the "tacky blobs". The initial tack was made at the point of the "Vee" and I then seamed from the point towards the free end of the strip (supporting the strip on the stirrer).
regards, Graham
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
That is an odd sort of description for something like two hours of un-printable thoughts.
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
And so do I, the design of the assembly is superb. I think that the instructions can be improved to offer information about how part A relates to part B in some cases. Examples are the cab roof, the front and back portions of the piston valve spindles, the position of the resin boiler moulding on the foundation layer of the footplate.
regards, Graham
