P A D
Western Thunderer
Peter,
presumably the brass details are fitted using cyanoacrylate “superglue”.
It’s pretty obvious that you’re not getting any anywhere it shouldn’t be.
Apart from midnight deals at the crossroads, can you offer some guidance for the more ham-fisted?
What type of glue, & how is it applied? (And if it does go pear-shaped, what’s the recovery plan?)
The model looks excellent, I’m enjoying the build.
Cheers - keep well!
Simon
Thanks for the kind words Simon. Glad you are enjoying the build.
For styrene to styrene, using I'm using Plastic Weld (methylene chloride). For resin to styrene either the Bostic super glue or the Loctite. At the start I was mainly using the super glue applied directly from the nozzle or for small parts using a cocktail stick. For etchings to styrene or resin I've was using the Bostic, mainly with a cocktail stick, but on my last visit to Morrisons for groceries, picked up the Loctite. For most parts I'm using from the nozzle but for very small parts, via a cocktail stick. By the way, the Plastic Weld won't touch the resin so I'm surprised that Dave Holt had problems with the solvent in UHU softening the resin boiler on his Black 5 build. I also found that cellulose thinners wouldn't touch the resin on the Finney 7 A4 boiler, so Brassmasters must be using a different resin formula.
Anyway, if there is any excess super glue I remove it quickly with a piece of tissue. Breathing on the joint speeds up the hardening as it works by polymerising with moisture. When its fully hardened, any excess can be scraped of with a blade from the etchings and removed from the styrene or resin with a scratch brush.
In terms of recover when things go pear shaped, I have found that the etched parts can be removed with a sharp blade by working it under the part. The chisel blade is good for this. The glue is then scraped/scratch brush off, and the part refitted. Not sure how that would pan out with the larger overlays thought. Excess Plastic weld can also be removed with the scratch brush and should any accidentally get splashed on a visible surface, best thing to do is blow on it to dry it quickly and leave for 5 to 10 mins for the styrene to fully harden. You end up with a "stain " that is easily removed with the scratch brush.
The Eduard parts are beautifully etched and being so thin, the cusp is almost invisible so doesn't need removing. The parts are very delicate and need careful cutting from the fret and in most cases, being very small, the tweezers gets lots of use.
Cheers,
Peter