Trumpeter 1:35 scale DRG Baureihe 86 display model.

P A D

Western Thunderer
Peter,

presumably the brass details are fitted using cyanoacrylate “superglue”.

It’s pretty obvious that you’re not getting any anywhere it shouldn’t be.

Apart from midnight deals at the crossroads, can you offer some guidance for the more ham-fisted?

What type of glue, & how is it applied? (And if it does go pear-shaped, what’s the recovery plan?)

The model looks excellent, I’m enjoying the build.

Cheers - keep well!
Simon

Thanks for the kind words Simon. Glad you are enjoying the build.

For styrene to styrene, using I'm using Plastic Weld (methylene chloride). For resin to styrene either the Bostic super glue or the Loctite. At the start I was mainly using the super glue applied directly from the nozzle or for small parts using a cocktail stick. For etchings to styrene or resin I've was using the Bostic, mainly with a cocktail stick, but on my last visit to Morrisons for groceries, picked up the Loctite. For most parts I'm using from the nozzle but for very small parts, via a cocktail stick. By the way, the Plastic Weld won't touch the resin so I'm surprised that Dave Holt had problems with the solvent in UHU softening the resin boiler on his Black 5 build. I also found that cellulose thinners wouldn't touch the resin on the Finney 7 A4 boiler, so Brassmasters must be using a different resin formula.

Anyway, if there is any excess super glue I remove it quickly with a piece of tissue. Breathing on the joint speeds up the hardening as it works by polymerising with moisture. When its fully hardened, any excess can be scraped of with a blade from the etchings and removed from the styrene or resin with a scratch brush.

In terms of recover when things go pear shaped, I have found that the etched parts can be removed with a sharp blade by working it under the part. The chisel blade is good for this. The glue is then scraped/scratch brush off, and the part refitted. Not sure how that would pan out with the larger overlays thought. Excess Plastic weld can also be removed with the scratch brush and should any accidentally get splashed on a visible surface, best thing to do is blow on it to dry it quickly and leave for 5 to 10 mins for the styrene to fully harden. You end up with a "stain " that is easily removed with the scratch brush.

20200411_115217.jpg

The Eduard parts are beautifully etched and being so thin, the cusp is almost invisible so doesn't need removing. The parts are very delicate and need careful cutting from the fret and in most cases, being very small, the tweezers gets lots of use.

Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
With the warmer weather I've been able to set up in the garage and get more time at the bench, so I gave the wheels a quick spray with some Halfords plastic primer. I picked it up the other day whilst out for a walk, after spotting that the local Halfords was open. They don't let you in the shop but have a counter in the entrance where you can ask for what you want and they get it for you. Seems like good stuff and goes on nice and level and dries quickly.
20200411_130714.jpg

Continuing with the domes, further resin parts have been added to each. To attach the parts either resin to resin or resin to plastic, I'm drilling the components and pinning them with short lengths of brass rod for extra strength. After I took this photo I realised that I'd got one of the flanges on the forward dome on back to front. I was able to remove it by prising it off with a chisel blade and then refit it in the correct orientation.
20200411_173912.jpg

On the steam domes, I fitted a length of rod all the way through. All the parts that had holes required for adding pipes or valve handles were pre drilled whilst the parts were loose.
20200411_174008.jpg

I also assembled the steam manifold which sits behind the rear sand dome. Again these parts are a great improvement over the spindly affairs supplied in the kit.
20200411_195113.jpg

And viewed from the rear righ hand side. The sand dome needs some work with the scratch brush to remove excess loctite.
20200411_194350.jpg

Here's the whole shebang viewed from above. None of the domes or the manifold are glued yet.20200411_194014.jpg

And some close up shots of the various details. The rear dome with safety valves and whistle manifold.
20200411_193642.jpg

And from the side. I replaced the resin pipe to the whistle with brass rod as it would have been far too vulnerable.
20200411_194952.jpg

This shows the refitted flange on the forward dome. There's a hole drilled in the bottom for the pipe and the one on the top, that was on the bottom, will now need to be filled.
20200411_193752.jpg

Same dome looking towards the rear. You can see the locking sneck for the sand dome lid made from copper wire.
20200411_195014.jpg

The safety vales from the left hand side and the sand valves and wing nuts. The resin sand valves from LZ Models came with resin wing nuts but I seem to have miss placed them. In any case I think etched ones are the better option.
20200411_194842.jpg

And the remaining flanges added to the pre heater.
20200411_194735.jpg

20200411_194752.jpg

Cheers,
Pete
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Not much progress today other than a couple of corrections and assembling the water pump. First I replaced the 0.8mm brass rod attaching whistle, with 1.0mm rod as the thinner one looked a bit spindly.
20200412_205339.jpg

And I filled the hole erroneously drilled in the water feed valve on the forward dome. So far the polyfiller has been cutting the mustard for me.
20200412_185558.jpg

Here's the Knorr Limon water pump after assembly, 10 pieces in all excluding the copper and brass wire. Again I have drilled and pinned all the joints for added strength, even those fecky little valves at the bottom. This is the side that faces the smokebox.
20200412_185635.jpg

And the outside face. I believe the small valves may be for draining the pump and the handles have been cast in the open position. On the preserved 86 049 and 86 283 the valve handles are horizontal. However, 283 has a pipe running from each valve routed over the top of the frames and downwards. Again, I'm guessing but I think that would be so the water drained between the rails rather than drowning the poor fitter that was doing the maintenance. Perhaps somebody with knowledge of German railways could throw some light on that?
For now, I'm living with the taps as they are, but I'm bound to break the handle off ond of them at some point and maybe then I'll scratch up some replacements with the handles horizontal. Hope it doesn't come to that as I have limited raw materials to work with.
20200412_185728.jpg

Here's a quick look with the wheels on, showing the state of play so far.
20200412_185530.jpg

20200412_185406.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Getting back to the chassis, I have now assembled the brake rigging. First the styrene inner brake block halves were glued to the hangers and then the etch overlays added.
20200413_185157.jpg

The blocks have some sort of adjuster or limiter between the bottom of the blocks and the hangers as shown in this image downloaded from the internet.
86 001.jpg

These were made up from 0.4mm copper wire. This was first wrapped around a strip of brass before being cut with a chisel blade.
20200414_170616.jpg

After removing from the brass strip you get these.
20200414_170549.jpg

The blocks and hangers were drilled and the adjusters fitted with 0.4mm copper wire and etched nuts and washers super glued in place. They should really be flat in section but I decided against trying to file or rub them down.
20200414_170521.jpg

Here they are in place on the chassis. Everything is just push fitted for now as I will paint the various parts before final assembly.
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20200414_191934.jpg

Next the cross beams and pull rods which were assembled off the chassis. The pull rods are just push fit into the linkages at this stage.
20200414_192052.jpg

After locating into the hangers, plastic weld was added to the various joints to fix everything, apart from where the hangers locate into the frames and where the rear pull rods connect to the brake cranks. Tomorrow when it's all fully hardened I should be able to spring the hangers and rear pull rods from their locations and remove the brake rigging as a unit. The coupling rod are a single moulding and again are just push fit.
20200414_192015.jpg

Here are a couple of views of the chassis with the cylinders push fit into their locations.
20200414_191742.jpg

20200414_191816.jpg

It didn't take me long to break off one of the handles on the taps at the bottom of the water pump, so I bit the bullet and replaced all three with handles made from copper wire. I was able to drill the resin sufficiently to fix the new handles with super glue. The water pump has been drilled and pinned at the rear and located into a hole drilled in the smokebox.
20200414_191444.jpg

The compressor has also had a brass pin inserted to locate it to the smokebox. I have also cut out a recess in the water tank to clear the valve at the rear.
20200414_191026.jpg

And the state of play so far.
20200414_191249.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 

michael080

Western Thunderer
Peter,

this is an impressive kit. I like your added detail with the brake blocks, but your prototype picture lacks the springs that are pushing the block lower side towards the wheel. If they weren't there, the released brake pad would always rub at the wheels with their upper ends.

IMG_8049_cut.jpg


Just an idea. They may be invisible and too fidly, even in Gauge 1.


hmm, I guess, you better ignore me...

Michael
 

adrian

Flying Squad
They should really be flat in section but I decided against trying to file or rub them down.
They look really good as they are - a nice detailing touch. As it's copper wire for future reference place on an anvil, put a short length of steel bar on top of them and then give it a sharp satisfying thwack with a hammer that'll put a nice flat on the section. :thumbs:
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Thanks Michael,
That's a very good point. I have noticed those springs on some locos, but they are not on all. Having looked through all my internet photos plus the ones that you sent me I have found the following where ig is possible to see the detail clear enough.
001 has single hangers with dual brake blocks with no springs.
049 has single hangers with dual brake blocks with no springs
283 has caliper hangers with no springs on the caliper brake blocks, but springs on the blocks of the single front and rear hangers.
333 is the same as 283.
457 has single brake hangers with dual brake blocks with springs.
501 has single hangers with dual brake blocks with no springs.
607 has single hangers with dual brake blocks with no springs.
744 has single hangers with dual brake blocks with no springs.

I have 3 drawings of the brake gear, Blatt 31, 31a and 31b.

Blatt 31 shows the original single hangers with single brake blocks with no springs.
Blatt 31a shows the caliper hangers with no springs on the caliper brake blocks, but springs on the single front and rear brakes as per 283 and 333.
Blatt 31b shows single hangers with dual brake blocks with springs.

I also noticed some photos of DB locos both with and without the springs, so there seems to be conflicting evidence as to which is correct. I think I could go either way and it would bd OK. Not sure how easy it will be to add them now the gear is assembled but I'll have a look tomorrow.

Cheers,
Peter
 

Genghis

Western Thunderer
Interesting! Here's a thought:

The photo of the springless brakes shows a pin through the guideway, which is angled up away from the wheel. As the brakes are released the pin will try to move up a little, which it cannot do, so the bottom of the brake blocks will move back towards the wheel and the top will rotate away.

The photo of the arrangement with spring looks like there is no movement of the pin within the guideway so a spring is provided to push the bottom of the blocks towards the wheel with the top rotating.

I spent more time with disc brake arrangements than with blocks.........
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Interesting! Here's a thought:

The photo of the springless brakes shows a pin through the guideway, which is angled up away from the wheel. As the brakes are released the pin will try to move up a little, which it cannot do, so the bottom of the brake blocks will move back towards the wheel and the top will rotate away.

The photo of the arrangement with spring looks like there is no movement of the pin within the guideway so a spring is provided to push the bottom of the blocks towards the wheel with the top rotating.

I spent more time with disc brake arrangements than with blocks.........


Hi David,
Thanks for that. I see what you mean about the difference in the angle of the clip with and without the springs which I didn't notice before. I've included some cropped images of the three drawings. I don't know if there are any copyright on these so if there's any issue I'll remove them.

This I believe is the original set up, single hangers with single brake block but no spring. The clip is angled slightly upwards from the block as you mention. Bissel pony truck.
20200415_112849.jpg

This is the set up that has caliper brakes between the driving wheels and a single hanger at each outer end. No springs on the calipers but a spring on the single one with clip angled down wards. Krauss-Helmholtz pony truck.
20200415_112730.jpg

This is the later single hanger set up but with 2 brake blocks plus the springs. The clips are angled slightly downwards. This is what I have modelled, but without the springs. Krauss-Helmholtz pony truck.
20200415_113019.jpg

I think with the clip angled down, then to be correct I should add the springs. I've also spotted that the brake block should have a hole as the top, one presumes so that the block could be fitted either way up. I missed that too.:rant:

As Michael says the springs are a nice detail and not difficult to make, so when I remove the gear I'll consider if it's possible to add them and drill the missing holes. If I don't think I can do it without damaging anything then I'll leave them as they are.

They look really good as they are - a nice detailing touch. As it's copper wire for future reference place on an anvil, put a short length of steel bar on top of them and then give it a sharp satisfying thwack with a hammer that'll put a nice flat on the section. :thumbs:

Thanks for that Adrian. I did wonder about flattening them in my parallel pliers, but didn't think I would be able to get them consistent. I'll see what I've got to hand in the garage and give if a try if I can, just out of interest. Thinking about it, another way would be to remove my watchmaker's vice from the bench, hold it vertically then place them all on the lower jaw before closing. Put the vice back on the bench and tighten the jaws. However, my vice is clamped to my bench at my brother's so I can't do that.

Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
So I've gone for the Blatt 31b set up albeit using the Bissel trucks as supplied in the kit.

First I had a quick go at flattening one of the spare clips in the parallel pliers. I couldn't get enough pressure on to flatten them properly, but I'm sure it could be done in a vice or using Adrian's method.
20200415_141133.jpg

Here's the brake rigging unit after springing out of the chassis.
20200415_140908.jpg

And after making and adding the springs. The springs were made from 0.4mm copper wire which is the smallest I have, by coiling a short length around a 0.6mm drill shank held in the pin vice. The ends were formed into "V" and trimmed to length before fitting. Fitting g was facilitated with a 0.5mm hole drilled on the bottom of the blocks. One end was glued to the block and the other tucked behind the clip and glued to the hanger. After the cyrano had hardened I was able to align the spring coils by inserting the drill shank and carefully twisting. I also added bold detail to the top (resin cast) and bottom (etched plus brass wire) of the hangers. Both would be better if larger, but that's all I have.

20200415_171451.jpg

And a view from the side. I've also drilled the missing holes at the top of the upper shoe. If I had my piercing saw it might be worthwhile to run it across the shoes to emphasise the gap between the upper and lower blocks. Hopefully the weathering after painting will pick out the gap in the etch.
20200415_171556.jpg

When I was happy that the cyrano was cured, I gave the unit a waft with the Halfords plastic primer.
20200415_171852.jpg

And a closer view. I could have done with some narrower wire for the springs but I think they pass muster. I know there should be some sort of adjuster at the top of the hangers, but if I put them on they will probably get damaged taking the rigging off and putting it on, so I'm passing on them.
20200415_190613.jpg

Here's the rigging clipped back into the frames. Now that the rear pull rods are glued to the cross beam, I've not pushed them into the brake cranks as I'll be taking them off again before long.
20200415_190218.jpg

And a couple of closer views on the chassis.
20200415_190055.jpg
20200415_190125.jpg

Looking good so far.
20200415_190301.jpg

20200415_190157.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
I've been wondering about the size of the LZ Models resin whistle, which seems too large to me, so I've removed it and replaced it with a part from Alliance Model works. If anything this one is slightly small but looks better to my eye.
20200416_190355.jpg

Moving on to the buffer beams, the buffers, brake hoses, steam heating valve and lamp mounts have been added, along with various bits of photo etch detail from Eduard. Note the "brackets" on one side of the buffer housings which are moulded in-situe and come with the gaps filled in. The Eduard set provides replacements for these but I thought it simpler to drill out and fettle up the mouldings, rather than cut them off and replace. This is the rear buffer beam.
20200416_190456.jpg

And the front. Further etched detail has been added to the platform behind the beam and I must tidy up those file marks at the rear of the aparture. Neither the kit or the aftermarket sets provide the steam pipe so I'll have to make that. It's quite a complex affair compared to those on British prototypes, so I'm looking forward to having a go at scratching them up.20200416_190524.jpg

The splashers for the pony trucks have also been added and again I've gone with the kit ones rather than the etched ones, which come in three parts.
20200416_190416.jpg

20200416_190437.jpg
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
The buffer beams have a large grab rail either side on the bottom. I assume these are to assist in scrambling under the buffers for coupling and uncoupling. The kit parts are of course styrene and quite fragile, so I replaced them with 0.8mm brass rod.
20200417_204935.jpg

Here they are super glued to the rear beam.
20200417_204658.jpg

At the front, as well as fitting the grab rails, the etched footsteps have been added. I have a 25 Watt Antex at home, so the support brackets (4 pieces) were soldered and the steps super glued. Soldering would have been better but I don't have my forceps to clamp the bracket while soldering the steps.
20200417_204752.jpg

20200417_204817.jpg

Back to the rear, where the brake cylinders have been fitted along with the crank. There's an etched overlay to go on the cylinder so I didn't bother tidying up the joint.
20200417_204733.jpg

At the other side the arrangement is slightly different. The pin fitted to the crank is for a couple of return springs that I will have to make.
20200417_204908.jpg

I then went back to the cylinders where further parts from the kit were added along with some extra details.
20200418_182340.jpg

And a closer look at the right hand cylinder. I have added the etched inspection hatch and removed the detail above, which I don't require. On thr piston tail rod I added a couple of strips of brass either side of the oil pot to represent the recess on the prototype. Etched overlays by Eduard have been added to the strips along with overlays for the cylinder relief valves. The single feed oil pots were made by halving a two feed resin casting from LZ and then they were mounted on a strip of brass inserted and glued into holes drilled in the styrene.
20200418_182432.jpg

And the left hand cylinder. There is a pipe to be added to the front and rear valve chests, that I assume is a drain. To facilitate this, short lengths of plastic rod, drilled to accept the pipes have been added to each valve chest. You can just make them out in this view.
20200418_182454.jpg

Here's the right hand cylinder inserted in the frames.
20200418_182319.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 

Deano747

Western Thunderer
Certainly not my sort of loco, but as usual from the PAD stable an amazing and intricate build.

Stay safe

Regards, Deano.
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Here are the cylinders after the addition of the pipes to the valve chests. In each case there's one on the front and rear valve chest.
20200419_193648.jpg

A view of the right hand cylinder from the side.
20200419_193557.jpg

And the left hand one.
20200419_193535.jpg

And located in the frames.
20200420_184531.jpg

The large balance weights on the wheels of the driven axle are quite a feature of these locos and I felt the kit ones weren't passing muster, stopping as they did too far from the wheel boss. The weights have quite a prominent overhang so I was able to make new ones from plasticard and glue them over the existing weights. Here's one of the new ones in place next to the other original one after the primer paint had been removed with the scratch brush.20200419_193928.jpg

Here are the pair of wheels after re-priming.
20200420_182950.jpg

And in place on the frames. Sorry about the red hue of some of the images, but late afternoon sunshine was beaming through thr garage window and th4 old curtain hung up as a blind is red.
20200420_182457.jpg

And the left side.
20200420_182615.jpg

I then moved on to the rear steps and brake cranks. These are the brake cylinders after adding the etch overlay.20200420_183013.jpg

On the left hand side there are two cranks, the upper one being the connection to the hand brake mechanism in the cab, which is most unusual compared to UK prototypes, but more on that later. I overlooked to remove the strengthening web on the forward crank, which is not prototypical, so had to do it in-situe. Styrene however, is much more forgiving than white metal in these situations.
20200419_193717.jpg

On the right hand side there is only a single crank.
20200419_193829.jpg

This is a general view of the under cab area after making up and fitting the steps. The mount for the balance pipes has also been added but the balance pipes between rear and front water tanks are just push fit. I had the option of making the steps all from etched parts, but decided that with the iron I have available it would be a bit of a chore and did not like the idea of assembling them with super glue. Therefore I've used the etched footsteps as overlays on the styrene parts filed down to accept them.
20200420_182553.jpg

And from t'other side.
20200420_181205.jpg

Red hue again, sorry. Here you can see the return springs fitted to the right hand crank. They are made from 0.4mm copper wire coiled around an 0.5mm drill shank held in the pinvice.
20200420_181158.jpg

Same thing on the left hand side. I really aught to have added some etched nuts to the end of the springs at the adjuster, but they were a big enough pita as it was to locate them without having to deal with "micro nuts".
20200420_182838.jpg

I've also made a modification to the return spring on the weight shaft. With the original location of the bracket at the rear of the spring, the spring was at an angle to the frames when it should be parallel. Therefore, I removed the bracket, added a spacer from plasticard to the frame and refitted the bracket.
20200420_182924.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 
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P A D

Western Thunderer
This earlier view of the cylinders shows the lack of stuffing gland detail and the somewhat emaciated representation of the bolts fixing the piston tail rod cover.
20200419_193648.jpg

First the existing tail rod fastenings were removed with a chisel blade and then replaced with Taurus models resin nuts and bolts, fixed with superglue. After the cyano has cured, the excess bolt length is trimmed with side cutters. I overlooked to rub down the bolts after trimming but will get to that another day.
20200421_200112.jpg

For the stuffing gland and flange, two circles were cut from 30 thou plastic card, a smaller one for the gland and a larger one for the flange. These were glued together and 0.5 mm holes drilled around the flange perimeter for inserting brass rod to represent the bolts. The flanges were glued to the cylinders and then the holes drilled through into the styrene. Short lengths of 0.5mm brass rod were then inserted, super glued, trimmed flush then filed smooth. After that, resin nuts/bolts were super glued over the ends of the brass rod. Here the right hand cylinder is ready for the application of super glue to fix the lengths of brass rod.20200421_200714.jpg

Here's the right hand flange after fitting the nuts and bolts. The cyano is applied to the flange via a cocktail stick and the resin casting located with a pair of tweezers.
20200421_200655.jpg

After trimming the excess bolt length you get this. I sanded them down with a strip of emery wrapped around a file, but they could probably do with a bit more.
20200421_200626.jpg

As can be seen in this view, I have also added the valve slides, cross head and valve rod. These are free to slide until all the valve gear parts are lined up later.
20200421_200040.jpg

And viewed from a different angle.
20200421_200307.jpg

20200421_200350.jpg

The cross heads and piston rods have now been assembled and extra detail added both photo etch and scratch. These locos have quite large cotter pins securing the piston rod to the cross head, so I made this from plasticard, made a slot in the piston rod mount and glued them in place.
20200421_200008.jpg

And a view from above.
20200421_195911.jpg

Here they are with the slide bars inserted. I see I missed a mould pip on the lower one.
20200421_195834.jpg

Back on the boiler, I added what I assume are the German version of mud hole covers. Again, the insipid fastening detail was cut off, drilled through and the fastenings added from brass rod and etched nuts. Here are the two on the firebox.
20200421_200532.jpg

And the one on the boiler just behind the smokebox.
20200421_200500.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 
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michael080

Western Thunderer
Hi Peter, it's me again...
;)

the balance weights of these locos are very prominent. Here are two pictures that show how thick they are and that the casting is hollow and filled with lead.
BR86_balance.png


BR86_balance2.png

the complete weight has a depth of 220mm!

Michael
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Michael,
Yes, those balance weights certainly are monsters.

This is an image that Michael shared with me of 86 457, which shows the bulk of the balance weights on the driven axle. Although the Trumpeter wheels have the webbing at the end of the spokes, they don't have it at the wheel boss which you can clearly see here. I decided I could live with that.
IMG_8029.JPG

So, continuing with the chassis, some further detail has been added to the cylinders. First of all the etched oil pot on the upper valve slide and the resin cast one bracketed off the rear flange on the top of the cylinder. The bracket was made from waste fret from the Eduard set. There's still the drain cocks to add and I'm wondering if I can add the operating linkages from the cab.
20200422_200118.jpg

On the frames further etched and resin parts were added. The brackets come with etched bolt heads but I find it easier to fit the resin ones from Taurus.
20200422_200307.jpg

This is the suggested method for fitting where just the bolt head is required. I tried it a few times and found that with so little depth in the head to grip in the tweezers, if you miss inserting the shaft directly into the drilled hole, the slightest touch causes the part to ping off into the ether. I have found it much easier not to drill a hole and apply the part, the other war round using the shaft to hold it in the tweezers. A drop of cyano is applied to the bolt location from the end of a cocktail stick and the part placed on the glue. You then have a few seconds to adjust the position if necessary. For bolt heads only, I then snip flush and give a rub down with Emery paper and for a nut and bolt, trim about half way down the shaft and rub down. I have had almost 100% success doing it this way, with only one or two coming unstuck during the snipping or rubbing down.
20200422_200238.jpg

Here three of the brackets are ready for fitting. The one on the top right still requires three of the bolts to be snipped.
20200422_200155.jpg

And added to the frames, two on each side opposite each other. Further bolt heads have also been added to places I missed earlier.
20200422_195555.jpg

On the platform in front of the smokebox saddle, bolt head detail has been added to the base of the legs for the central footstep below the smokebox. I got the large overlay slightly off center, but didn't dare try removing it for fear of bollardsing it up, so the resultant gap has received some filler.
20200422_195654.jpg

Along with those, the 3 station oil pots and brackets have also been added to the edge of the frames. Needless to say, the various oil pots will receive piping in due course.
20200422_195929.jpg

As with all the other resin fittings, the holes for inserting the piping later have been pre drilled.
20200422_195434.jpg

Cheers,
Peter
 
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P A D

Western Thunderer
I was getting low on cast resin bolts, so I decided to invest in this bit of kit for punching dummy bolt heads from plasticard. A bit late in the build I know, but I see plenty of options to utilise it later for detailing etched 7mm scale models in the future. I bought it from Historex Agents ( Historex Agents ) via Amazon, ordered on Monday received it on Tuesday, so excellent service. It's not cheap, but its top quality. Have a look at the website and video for more information. What's in the picture is what you get in the box, apart from the nuts which I punched from 20 thou plasticard.
20200424_114322.jpg

On the 86er, I did a bit more work on the cab steps, adding the panel at the top and brass stays lower down. The stays are not included in the kit and from looking at prototype photos there are variations on the type fitted, some being rod, some flat bar as I have fitted. At the top end they are pinned to holes drilled in the top bar of the frames, the pin (0.5mm brass rod), soldered to the to the flat brass section. The rear stay had to be kinked to avoid the brake cylinder.
20200424_200442.jpg

T'other side. The plastic part on the top step is also pinned with brass rod to make it more robust. The joint at the front end has has a piece of plasticard glued onto the inside to reinforced it. I need to trim the overhang, or should that be underhang at the bottom.
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The cylinders have turned into a couple of mini kits of their own with the amount of extra parts added. Both are now completed ready for fitting after painting. Here's the left hand cylinder. Further lubricator points have been added from scratch to the valve tail rod, between the two large closed off flanges and to the back of the valve rod slide. As well as that, the piping from the two station oil pot and the cylinder drain cocks are also now in place.
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Same cylinder from the rear. The two station oil pot feeds the stuffing glands for the valve rod and piston rod.
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I cannot determine where the other three oil pipes come from so I have just routed them behind the cylinder and glued them near to the main steam pipe.
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And a side on view with the cylinder laid down to show the drain cocks and pipes added from 0.6mm copper wire. The fixing nuts were made from plasticard with the RP Toolz punch.
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Here's a view of the right hand cylinder placed in the frames.
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And from above showing the oil pipes running behind the cylinder. 20200424_200334.jpg

Further detail has also been added to the crossheads. The oilpot on the front, has what appears to be three small and one large filler lid. Again, the RP punch was used to makes these.
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Why it needs so many lids is strange, as when the connecting rod is fitted it feeds oil to the bearing via the centre of the securing bolt. I rubbed down the cotter pins a little, but they are still quite prominent as on the prototype.
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Moving on to the connecting rods, I added the bolts and slider that I assume adjust the big end bearing. Although the coupling rods have the oil pot lids moulded on, they are missing from the connecting rods so these were added from plasticard.
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Here are the aforementioned coupling rods. Although they have the oil pot lids, the crank pin fixing bolts will need some work to make them look prototypical. The bolt heads will need cutting off and a recess made to "counter sink" the replacement bolt heads.
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Cheers,
Peter
 
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