Trumpeter 1:35 scale DRG Baureihe 86 display model.

[P A D]

Here are the completed connecting rods after addition of the brass cover (at least it will be brass after painting) made from 10 thou plasticard.


Apologies for the plastic dust in many of the photos. I brush it off but static attracts it all back again. I need to give it a wash in water with a little detergent, but that will be done before priming. Moving on to the coupling rods, the bolt heads have been removed from 3 of the crank pin fasteners, which have then been recessed and a nut and bolt added. The fastenings are similar to the ones on LMS/BR locos as fitted to the leading driving wheels. However, they also have an additional locking nut adjacent to the fluting. The joints in the coupling rods are poorly represented but I'm leaving them alone, other than filing down the fixing nut, drilling through and adding a length of brass ros to represent the bolt.


At the back of the chassis, further etched overlays have been added to the frame above the long foot step.

Along with some brackets and bolt head detail lower down.


I ordered a rattle can of RAL 3000 acrylic paint and gave it a quick try yesterday on one of the wheels. Today I brush painted the rim with Humbrol Metalcote steel and after it was dry, polished it up. For doing the painting propper, I intend to decant the Red and apply via an airbrush. Fortunately I have a spare at home as well as a small compressor and with the warmer weather, can spray outside.


At the front of the chassis, I added the piping to the oil boxes either side of the frames, after first making and fitting a plate to cover the opening in the platform in front of the smokebox saddle.




And a view from the front showing the grab rods either side of the buffer beam and the oilpot for lubricating the coupling hook.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Bristol_Rich]

For the tyres have you looked at the alclad2 range? There are some excellent metal finishes Far superior than the Humbrol metal finishes...

 

[Mike Trice]

Also suggest you look at Rub N Buff

 

[Dave Holt]

Hi Peter.
Only looked at this thread yesterday. The title hadn't attracted me, but then I noticed it was by you and thought I'd better check it out. Very glad I did!
What a wonderful job you're making of it, with loads of additional and very fine detail making all the difference.
For fine application of superglue, I use a de-headed brass pin held in a pin chuck. This is much finer than a cocktail stick and may reduce the excess in some applications where only the minimum amount of glue is required.
Dave.

 

[P A D]

Thanks Rich, Mike and Dave for the suggestions.

Before the weather turned sour, I managed to spray the primer onto some of the "sub assemblies".


Not sure if you can see it, but on the cylinders I've added the drain cock operating links and cranks, to the lower rear of the cylinder cover.


This view shows the crank and lever better.


I could add lots of bolts and rivets to the trucks, but when under the frames and on the track, they simply would not be seen, so I've passed on that. The wheels are just push fit so can be removed for easier painting of the tyre treads. Not sure if I mentioned it earlier, but the springs as designed, are set too wide apart and won't fit between the frames. They need to be moved inwards by a mm or so and then they are fine.


On the front platform, the pipework to the brake pipes has been started. Other than disappearing down the side of the smokebox, I've no idea where it goes, so for now I've just terminated it where it is. When the cylinder is on its hidden, so I may just leave it as it is.


On the leading tank support I've added the brackets and rods to link to the cylinder drain cocks. I simplified it by just making a 90 degree bend at each end and added the crank for connecting to the operating mechanism in the cab.





Underneath the boiler I fitted cleats to the bands. I think there should be a nut on the opposite end to the loops but will add these later.


And then decided to do some plumbing. The remaining oil piping on the compressor and some steam/water pipes on the preheater have been added. I've represented the lagging on the big pipe by holding the wire in the pin vice and ratating it against a Stanley knife held at an angle. Works a treat. That said I've decided not to do it on the narrower pipes as although mostly lagged, they tend to look very smooth after painting.


On the other side, some pipework from the preheater to the water pump and dynamo. I've got some plastic rod on order for doing the long pipe runs down the boiler, as I think it will be easier to do than in copper.


The lower pipe on the compressor loops under the smokebox to the water pump.


Decorations on the smokebox door are now completed and the step and upper platform supports added. The securing lug top right looks loose, but I've just checked and it's fine. The plug for the upper lamp is an LZ casting and the bolt heads and door support made from styrene and brass.


Here's the domes and steam manifold after the hand wheels were added. These are from the kit and have 4 spokes when there should only be three, but I'm using them.


The large overlay for the floor is now glued in place.


As is the one for the cab front plate, here taped to the floor. The glazing has to be fitted at this stage and will need masking both sides for spraying.


Play time. It's a big bugger!


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

The pipe fest continues with more plumbing at the front end.


The extra pipe added to the preheater loops down and then take a right angle behind the tank. I cannot work out where it ends up but when the tank is in place, who cares.


A further union and valve has been added to the forward dome, along with the pipe to the preheater. As always these resin part have been drilled and pinned to supplement the superglue.


On the other side of the forward dome, the same union and valve have been added, albeit it runs to the rear.


I made a simplified version of the airlines to the sand valves, by drilling holes in the boiler for the pipes that connect to the valves. Much easier than trying to make a butt joint on the airlines and more robust. The pipes have yet to be fed into the valves


Finally, the feed pipe to the bell has been added, along with another pipe that run underneath it, but then loops down under the boiler at the front.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

A plumber's work is never done!

I realised that I'd got the pipes from the air lines in the wrong place, so I removed and re-positioned them before attaching to the sand valves.


Further pipework along the right hand side of the boiler was from copper wire. I was hoping to use styrene rod for the longer runs as I thought it would be easier to work with. However, my order from Slaters hasn't arrived so I pressed on with the copper wire.


This is a closer view of the whistle manifold after I added the operating crank and condensate drain pipe. The pipe runs down under the boiler and then down to the frames. For now it stops short on the boiler, but I'll fit the lower part to the frames later. I've made a start on linking the whistle valve to the cab but didn't get time to fit it.


Both the steam and sand domes (boxes) are now permanently attached and it's starting to look busy on top now.

Another error that needs correcting is the step below the smoke box. I've fitted the shorter original step which came in the kit, but I need to replace that with the longer later version.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

The whistle operating crank and rod to the cab is now added.


Along with a couple of footsteps further back.


The support at the rear is only temporary until the cab front is on and the rod will then run through a hole.


Lower down, I've added the continuation of the drain pipe from the whistle to the frames. The joint is just above the boiler support bracket.
The pipe from the compressor to the forward large air tank is now in place, but bracketed off the boiler rather than the frames, otherwise the boiler could not be removed. The rear part of the pipe will be fixed to the tank and butt up against the pipe from the compressor. I've got a reasonable idea where all the pipe runs are, but those two by the side of the smokebox and saddle have go me beat. Fortunately the fact they they come to an abrupt end will be hidden when the tank and cylinder are on.


The short original step has now be replaced with the later longer version.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[Tim Watson]

I really think you should put a battery in it and power it up!

Tim

 

[P A D]

Thanks Tim.

Yes it would be nice to see something this big moving on rails.

Kiss Modellbahn do a nice one in Gauge 1, if you have an odd 2 grand or so to spare.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

Not much progress today as the front step needed adjusting and it took me three attempts to get it correct.


After that it was back to the plumbing where a start was made piping up the the air tanks. On this side the rear part of the pipe from the compressor, has been added to the large forward tank.


And on the other side, the link between the two large tanks. The tanks will remain loose until after the chassis is painted, so the link pipe is only glued into the rear tank to allow for easy removal. The 1.5mm nuts were made from 20 thou plasticard and the pipes from 1.2mm copper wire.


With the body on, the pipe from the tank locates into the flange added to the pipe from the compressor.



The operating rod from the cab to the cylinder drain cocks will nicely clear the pipework.


On the left hand side of the boiler, a start was made on the plumbing, with the addition of the steam feed from the manifold to the generator.


Rather awkwardly, the pipe locates into the generator on the side facing the chimney, as can be seen in this (rather poor) image. It also give an idea of the size of the model as it's standing on an A3 cutting mat and is around 16 inches long over the buffers.


Underneath the boiler, I added the nuts to the cleats.


I hope the chassis can support the boiler when all the plumbing is on, due to the additional weight of the copper pipes!

Cheers,
Peter

 

[Genghis]

I really think you should put a battery in it and power it up!

Tim

It looks like it only needs water and a fire, but am not too sure how the plastic will react.........

 

[P A D]

It looks like it only needs water and a fire, but am not too sure how the plastic will react.........

Very badly I suspect David.

Apart from one or two pipes from the steam manifold into the cab, all the main pipework on the boiler is done plus a few of the smaller lines from the generator and water pump. As can be seen, I've compromised on the pipe fastenings to the boiler by drilling holes either side of the pipes and then adding a small U bracket from 0.4mm copper wire. I decided it would be more secure and quicker than shaping strips of brass strip.


Here's a closer view of the additions to the generator and water pump. Apart from the long one at the bottom, any pipes hidden from view behind the tank have been cut short and glued to the boiler. There's a superfluous hole in the flange at the front of the generator that needs filling.


On the smokebox front, the cable from the generator to the top lamp electric socket has been added along with the small grab rail at the top of the door. I wonder what the purpose of that is way up there?


I cannot determine where the two narrow pipes on the valve behind the compressor go, other than downwards and out of sight, so I've routed them under the smokebox and pinned them where they will be out of sight. I've done the same with some pipes from the water pump. At the bottom of the compressor, there's still a large pipe to bd added, but again, I don't k how where it goes. From the odd image that I have that shows it, it appears to loop behind the compressor, but after that I've no idea.


The BR52 2-10-0 has this compressor on the side of the boiler, so I've been searching for images to see if I could get any clues to help me with the 86. I came across a website that has loads of photos of BR52, 528116.

Here's the link for those of you interested in German prototypes, but may not be aware of it.

https://www.scalenews.de/br-52-8116-dampflokomotive-walkaround-1066/

Enjoy.

Cheers,
Peter

 

[spikey faz]

Have you tried one of these pens for doing the wheels?


Mike

 

[michael080]

This class is quite common at German heritage railways. I have seen them on many occasions and thought to be quite familiar with them, but this thread shows details I haven't noticed at the prototypes. Really first class modelling.

BUT, with all these pipework on the boiler it might become clear why I was switching to build models of UK prototypes.
The prussian style of steam engines that influenced the later Reichsbahn designs was always focussing on simplicity, but never on elegance. All attempts of the former state railways of Bavaria, Baden and Württemberg to consider their experience were ignored and their superior designs were soon phased out.

Michael

 

[P A D]

Have you tried one of these pens for doing the wheels?
View attachment 123440

Mike

Hi Mike,
Not seen them before, but I think the chrome will be too bright to emulate steel. Thanks all the same.

This class is quite common at German heritage railways. I have seen them on many occasions and thought to be quite familiar with them, but this thread shows details I haven't noticed at the prototypes. Really first class modelling.

BUT, with all these pipework on the boiler it might become clear why I was switching to build models of UK prototypes.
The prussian style of steam engines that influenced the later Reichsbahn designs was always focussing on simplicity, but never on elegance. All attempts of the former state railways of Bavaria, Baden and Württemberg to consider their experience were ignored and their superior designs were soon phased out.

Michael

Thanks Michael.
The more you look the more you see.

It's funny you should mention the pipework. As I've got further into the build, the thought crossed my mind that you had perhaps switched to UK prototypes so as to avoid going crazy! It's all good fun really.

Anyway, after further studying my reference photos, I've realised that the bottom pipe on the compressor does not loop up underneath and behind. It drops down and curves back towards the smokebox saddle and runs out of sight behind the cylinder. It's glued into the compressor and rests on the other mystery pipe at the side of the saddle.


On the other side, the feed pipe to the water pump has been added. I've run out of suitable resin flanges so had to knock some up from plasticard and copper wire.


With the boiler off, you can see the route it takes back under the cab to connect to the rear tank on the right hand side.


It's a very long pipe run so I added it in three sections, the first joint being at the second boiler support and the second joint is at the third. The run from the second joint to the end is still very long, but was fairly manageable. I will add a support under the cab to make it more robust while I still need to handle the chassis.


The feed pipe starts just under the cab at a large resin valve which required quite a bit of plastic filed off the thick rear cab floor support, to fit it. The support is not prototypical. The valve will have a hand wheel fitted which will just be visible behind the step.


The pipe terminates at the front with a flange just ahead of the first tank support. The final length of pipe to the pump will be added after painting.


There's another pipe from the rear tank to the cab, plus the steam heating pipe through the frames and the connections either end, but I'm getting close to completing the pipework on the chassis.

I think one those mystery pipes runs down past the air tanks and up to the cab, but I need to study the reference photos to be sure.

Then there's all the electrical conduits and cab pipework to do. Happy days.

Cheers,
Pere

 

[Dave Holt]

Peter,
A truly amazing level of detail and complexity in all that pipework. I thought BR Standards had quite a bit of visible piping, but this takes the biscuit.
As a matter of interest, are there pipes required coming out of the bottom of the sanding valves? One of the earlier photo seemed to show they have holes in the bottom.
Dave.

 

[P A D]

Morning Dave,
I agree, the amount of pipework on these locos makes a BR standard look like a streamliner.

Yes, there 4 sets of 4 pipes to be added to the sand valves. This can only be done after the chassis and boiler are mated. The kit provides these ready moulded in a flexible soft silicone like rubber. I read somewhere that they are a pig to get on as nothing seems to adhere to them. They are on a card with a 1:1 drawing of the set up and I intend to bin them and use the drawing as a template to make them in copper wire. Here's a picture I downloaded from t'internet, but I'll take a better one later so you can see what I mean.


Cheers,
Peter

 

[P A D]

First of all, here's a better image of the flexible sand pipes. In almost every image I've seen of completed models where these have been used, there is always one or more of the pipes out of position. However, I can use the 1:1 drawing on the card to knock them up in copper wire.


I finally got my head around the remaining pipework, apart from the one exiting the preheater on the right hand side that I mentioned earlier. I was also wrong about the bottom pipe from the compressor. It does not loop up behind the compressor, but down and slightly back and in towards the frame. It then runs vertically down to the bottom edge of the frame, so I assume it's a drain pipe, maybe for condensate. The combined pipe from the air brake connections runs backwards towards the rear of the loco, ending up passing up into the cab. I've made a "Z" bend on the side of the smokebox saddle to raise it up to pass over the first tank support, but this is just guesswork on my part. In any case is mostly obscured by the steam pipe from the cylinder.


It then slopes down behind the reversing crank before running horizontally to the rear where it loops up into the cab through the floor. To get the other pipe on it was necessary to fix the small air tank in place to provide support at the front.


Here's a view with the tank on. On the real thing, there are supports for the pipes under the tank and I will add these later.


In looking at reference photos to track the route of these pipes, I realised that the third tank support was incorrect, so had to do some carefully butchery (better done in the flat) to correct it. The one on the left has been corrected, with the right one still to do.


There's another gizmo on the brake pipe before it goes out of sight under the cab.


The grab rods on the front buffer beam were susceptible to being snagged when handling and I finally broke one of. A repair was never going to last, so I cut off the balls at the top, drilled them out and added new rods made from brass rod. I was able to taper them by turning in the mini drill between two files. A part drilled hole in the cutting mat held the balls for drilling with the pin vice.

And in place. I've also added some tube and the "bush" of wires under the smoke box. They don't attach to anything at the top but will be mostly hidden from view.


Our German member Michl080 pointed me in the direction of the supplier of these very fine steam heat connections. Many thanks Michael.
They are for Spur 1 so a little large, but who can tell?


And in place. I need to make the stowage hook, but that's no bother.


This is the rear one without the pipe inserted.


A view of the wire "bush" with the boiler off.


And a couple of gratuitous images to finish.




Cheers,
Peter

 

[Richard Spoors]

I admire your perseverance in sorting out the pipe runs. Are you going to build a small diorama on which to display your finished work?

Cheers

Richard