Unklian's G3 workbench .

Spitfire2865

Western Thunderer
Those look very nice. Complex brake gear on such a short wheelbase always looks interesting. Should make for a lovely sight once all painted and detailed.

I recently ordered a GA print of the dumb buffered version from HMRS.
Anyone know of any good sources for photos or info on them?
 

unklian

Western Thunderer
Sorry chaps you are way off. The customer wants to fit 45mm gauge wheel sets to some Gauge 3* wagons !!!?? . So I have turned the axles with a 40mm centre section to give 45mm gauge wheel sets when the standard Slater's wheels are pushed on . The axles are 92mm long overall so as to reach the bearings in a Gauge 3 wagon chassis. Why ? because he says they will then look like 7/8th's scale vehicles . No I don't get it either . Suffice to say he is paying for what he wants and I really don't see the point in arguing ! I did do 8 axles, he already has one as a sample .

* Gauge 3 is normally 63.5mm gauge BTW .
 

geoff_nicholls

Western Thunderer
It's Bachmann's revenge for what's been done to their troublesome Trucks.
I suppose the GER open wagons do resemble Vale of Rheidol Railway stock. it does sound like the sort of thing we narrow gauge fans resorted to in the 1960's, but then cheap second hand wagons were available. I'm tempted to dig out my old drawings...
 

unklian

Western Thunderer
Meanwhile I have been wrestling with an etched kit for Gauge 3, something I am really beginning to wonder if it was a good idea . The kit is for a GWR Y8 fruit van, it comes from Walsall Model Industries and is an enlargement of a WEP kit for I believe Gauge 0. Anyone built one of those ? First problem is that it is etched in 0.6mm brass that is fairly soft, which makes things a bit too flimsy for me. So I have taken some measures to reinforce things. The other problems mainly concern poor fit of parts or parts that are just not right . I did even wonder about putting it on WT at all , but it might serve as some sort of parable . First some of the main parts ....

RIMG0533.JPG

RIMG0520.JPG

This is the chassis, which is intended to have inside bearing wheel sets. This is definitely too flimsy and I did not like the inside bearings supplied .

RIMG0530.JPG

Most of the castings are OK, and the wheels passable, but I remounted them on 'normal' axles with insulation bushes.

RIMG0532.JPG

The solebars folded up fairly easily after I ran a square needle file along the fold grooves. As I went on with the kit I found they were 1.5mm too long, 1mm too wide and a good 1mm too shallow. All the rivets on the kit had to be pressed out from the back using my trusty Metalsmith riveting tool, which has a special set of oversize punch and die fitted for large scale work .

RIMG0534.JPG

I made a start by folding up the side grills and end bonnets. The former needed lots of work with the square file before they would bend up neatly . I also had to trim off the top location tab as it did not fit/reach the slot. The bonnets fitted OK and the flanges for the T sections fitted but everything is very sloppy. Note the flat face of the t sections is not raised or separate but represented by an etched outline, maybe OK in Gauge 0 but a bit skimpy in Gauge 3 .

RIMG0539.JPG

To start the soldering I decided to keep the ends flat and add the t flanges. Soldering the first one along its full length was a disaster the side buckled and bent with the localised heat from the iron and I got solder every where trying to make a continuous joint . I decided that the best I could do was just tack solder the tabs and some of the more vulnerable ends and hope the paint covers the rest.
 

geoff_nicholls

Western Thunderer
"Hey Geoff, you are going the wrong way there , remember these , we are going broader right ??!"

How could I forget. for those of you out there who haven't been following closely, I'm planning to build a gauge 3 broad gauge micro/ cameo layout. Not just gauge 3, but with Unklian's encouragement, the gauge 3 equivalent of scale7. the photo shows a pair of broad gauge axles with 3' diameter Slaters wheels turned down to BG13.5 standards by Ian, with an ordinary Slaters narrow gauge axle for comparison.20180505_095421.jpg
I've chosen a rebuilt Leo class, 2-4-0ST as the loco for the layout, which will be set in the 1850's. The photo shows the blanks for the wheels, supplied by Mark Wood. I chose the 1850's because I'm already building narrow gauge stock for that period, including an Eastern Counties 2-2-2WT designed by Daniel Gooch's brother John Viret, and some LNWR wagons.
My current thinking is to base the layout on the Faringdon or Abingdon branches.
I'll start a separate thread for this project.
 

geoff_nicholls

Western Thunderer
I decided that the best I could do was just tack solder the tabs and some of the more vulnerable ends and hope the paint covers the rest.
might it be better to cut out all the planking, keeping all the strapping. Then overlay that strapping over a scribed wooden box?
 

unklian

Western Thunderer
Sorry bit of a break as I thought the post might be too long in one hit .....

RIMG0521.JPG

These are the irons I have been using and generally it seems that the old school Solon is best, it is not as powerful 65 watt instead of 75 watt, but it seems to do the job with less distortion .

RIMG0540.JPG

To reinforce the buffer beams I cut down some square tube into angle, it was a bit thinner than the angle I had ! After some drilling and filing I soldered it and the buffer bodies sandwiching the thin buffer beam . The top flange of the angle I drilled so that it could be screwed to a 10mm ply floor . So hopefully all the draw gear forces would be separate from the thin bodywork .

RIMG0541.JPG

So came the assembly of the 'big bits' , I decided to tack the solebars in place first as they would hopefully hold it all straight and then the doors would just slot on after. Good plan except .....

RIMG0543.JPG

the perishing solebars were too long. I took it apart and corrected the length . Put it back together, the bit behind the door was too wide now. Back a part again... It took three goes before it all fitted right, and I had to do it that way because with everything being so thin and floppy, the solebars were the only thing keeping everything straight, and to alter them they had to be off the model .

RIMG0546.JPG

Bit of a jump ahead now, floor and other reinforcement in place .

RIMG0547.JPG

New improved running gear coming together ....

RIMG0545.JPG

Starting to look like a wagon at last .... Suggestions for how to fix the roof on, on a postcard to the usual address .
 

Mike W

Western Thunderer
Ian, I see you have used my pre-folded W irons. You may want to bear in mind that if you don't mind the self-solder type I do alternative crossmembers at 5ft 11in or 6ft 1in between solebar inner faces. However, your thread has really brought home to me the problems of a professional builder asked to assemble a kit which you feel has shortcomings and whether the customer will want or pay for "improvements" which you feel are essential. Very glad I'm not a professional builder having to make that choice!
 

unklian

Western Thunderer
Further update on the Y8. Now painted with Halfords etch primer and followed with their Rover Hurricane Grey . I got a sheet of GWR freight transfers from Walsall Industries , which look like an enlargement of a Fox transfers sheet, but nothing on it for a fruit van . So lots of individual numbers and letters , 52 bits in all, and it is now drying in anticipation of some lacquer .

RIMG0628.JPG
 

76043

Western Thunderer
Hi Ian, I didn't know Halfords do etch primer, thanks for the tip-off. I have some LNER Thompson etched body kits which fit onto the remains of Hornby Dublo mk1s. Why anyone would do such a thing is part of the joy of this hobby.
Tony
 

unklian

Western Thunderer
Hi Tony,
I have to say I am never too sure of the efficacy of etch primers on brass, so everything got a thorough scrub with Vim scouring powder and a bath in hot water to get rid of any flux residue , then after handling the model a bit a quick slosh over with cellulose thinner as a final degreasing . I haven't done any masking on this model which is usually the true test of the paint adhesion. Otherwise the Halfords etch primer sprayed nicely for a rattle can, being fairly thin, and I was able to go straight on with the colour coat. The colour being gloss was ready for the transfers without any lacquering, and hopefully all I have to do now is a quick coat of Tamiya semi matt to seal the transfers and kill the gloss .
Cheers Ian
 
Top