Winter is coming...

chrisb

Western Thunderer
I recently started work on what was intended to be a 4mm scale display diorama for photographing models and experimenting with DCC-controlled road vehicles but the diorama has now evolved into something more ambitious that would also serve as a something more functional in terms of actually running trains.

I had intended to hide the scenic breaks to the storage sidings with trees and so I started to build a number of wire-frame skeletons as described in Gordon Gravett's excellent book on modelling trees. This is the result of the first attempt (the original was photographed near Great Dixter):

TreeSkeleton_1.jpg

But after leafing out the tree to fit a summer scene I realized I much preferred the original bare, winterized version (as shown above) and this started me thinking about modelling the 'diorama' in winter.

I didn't have any experience with any type of wintry scenic modelling but I remembered that George Iliffe Stokes preferred autumn scenes and so I went on a search of everything I could find on his work.

And so, here I am, with a little scenic test piece set in deep winter:

WIC_1.jpg

Winter is definitely coming...
 

adrian

Flying Squad
I had intended to hide the scenic breaks to the storage sidings with trees and so I started to build a number of wire-frame skeletons as described in Gordon Gravett's excellent book on modelling trees. This is the result of the first attempt (the original was photographed near Great Dixter):
That's stunning - I've just bought that book so a brilliant incentive to get stuck in a have a go. For Holywell Town I was planning an autumnal look so I'll be interested to see how you get on.
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Thank you for the kind replies and likes.

A little more experimentation today:

WIC_2.jpg

The process for applying the 'snow' involves building up a number of layers with some type of spray adhesive. I used an acrylic lacquer. Spray mount adhesive and also hairspray can be used although apparently the latter tends to result in a chunkier, more globular result.

To be honest, after I'd applied the first few layers it looked like a complete disaster - the 'snow' sticks to the individual static grass fibers in such a way that each fibre looks like scale candy floss albeit white. But either mashing this down with my finger as I did in front of the hedge or brushing the fibers partly clean as I did in the foreground creates pretty much the final effect. At the base of the hedge I used a mixture of both techniques to create a sense of drifts in places. The lacquer-soaked 'snow' is oddly plastic and easily malleable when it's still wet.

To create the footsteps, I waited for the lacquer to dry and then used a scale figure to create the impressions in the snow - this was weirdly realistic as the 'snow' layers crunched as I pressed down.

Next up I want to try to create some 'ice' for frozen puddles (thick solid and cracked thin) as well as some icicles.
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
That is most impressive and captures the effect so well that you can almost feel the cold!

I think dust will be a bit of a problem long term so more suited to a small diorama which can be covered.
 

PMP

Western Thunderer
I did a small diorama a long while ago, (4mm scale) don't be tempted to add 'glitter' to get a shiny crystal effect it doesn't work. For the frost I used Halfords car primer white acrylic which worked well, and didn't yellow over time, oil based paints are more likely to yellow as far as I know. Your snow effect is far better than I achieved using a textured finish like modelling clays so I think you are definitely on the right track. In your hedge you can still have dead leaves that haven't fallen, some of the cooking herbs from the supermarket will have a good size and really faded color, for those that don't turn into really dark brown mush. As StEnochs has mentioned I too think a big challenge going forward is going to be keeping it looking clean, and your whites, white. The lighting of the layout/diorama will be key to getting the feel right too, on my shelfie I've got kitchen underlighter fluorescents, and blue LEDS. The LEDS are on a transformer so I can vary the intensity of the blue light element which makes a huge visual difference.

IMG_0721.JPG
 
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