Winter is coming...

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Thank you for the kind comments and 'Likes'.

There's nothing revolutionary about how I made the tree - I simply followed most of the techniques described in Gordon Gravett's excellent book Modelling Trees Part One - Broadleaf Trees.

I have many more trees to make so perhaps the best thing to do would be to describe where I strayed from or modified Gordon's techniques as I build the next trees (a pair of younger elms.)

So, to start, I build the trees on resin blocks set into card supports that allow for both ease of handling during the build and simple insertion into the prepared landscape later on. I purchase the blocks from a war gaming supply store (Great Escape Games) together with the MDF tops (although they're sold as 'bases') that I epoxy to the blocks after drilling holes in each (the base of the tree skeleton is subsequently glued into this hole with epoxy.) It wouldn't be difficult to make these items but they're not expensive and it's one less thing to do. The card supports are simply made from grey board. Here are the components and end result:

IMG_6675.jpg

As the next trees I'm building probably won't feature any ivy, I'll address that now in case I forget. I use plumbers' hemp for the stems as Gordon Gravett recommends in his book although I found the strands of hemp absorb the diluted PVA used to attach them to the tree trunk and branches and as a result the strands tend to clump together and the stems end up looking overscale at least in 4mm. So I first spray individual hemp strands with several coats of hairspray and once dry I then spray paint the strands (using a mix of Tamiya Khaki XF-59 and Sky Grey XF-19) all before attaching the strands to the tree.

For the ivy leaves I used Silflor miniNatur products (easily available online.) They're quite expensive but go a long way. The photograph below shows (L to R) 'Apple Tree Leaves Late Fall/Autumn or Winter', 'Tufts with Small Leaves Late Fall or Winter', 'Summer Ivy' and 'Dead Ivy':

IMG_6676.jpg

The various leaves are mostly overscale for 4mm but are easily teased from the mats and then cut into smaller pieces or just scrunched up with tweezers to appear smaller (and more 3-dimensional). Here's a wicked close-up image of the end result applied to the ivy stems on the trunk:

zoominfocus.jpg

The green leaves are subsequently dabbed with hair spray to provide a suitably glossy finish.
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
I just looked up the book, considering a purchase. I checked Amazon, just too see if I could find the book stateside to reduce shipping costs. Used paperback editions are available starting at $200!:eek::eek::eek: Oops, I have it backwards. Used from ~$400 - new from $200. I'll go straight to the source, thanks.

I don't know why everybody talks about how cheap everything is on Amazon. Everything I ever seek seems to cost more on their site then if I were to walk into a store and buy it firsthand. I know with books they use some algorithms to price things, but they are frequently very out of touch.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
I just looked up the book, considering a purchase. I checked Amazon, just too see if I could find the book stateside to reduce shipping costs. Used paperback editions are available starting at $200!:eek::eek::eek: Oops, I have it backwards. Used from ~$400 - new from $200. I'll go straight to the source, thanks.

As I recall, this is a policy decision on the part of Wild Swan - @Simon can confirm - and thus any copies of Wild Swan publications on Amazon are likely to attract a premium.

Chris's tree, however, is stunning.

Adam
 

lankytank

Western Thunderer
Just checked Abebooks & there are a couple of copies available, in the UK, at £19.95 - although I suspect Simon C of Titfield fame may be along in a moment........
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Who me?

Stateside, I think that Dick Gilman of International Hobbies took some stock a few months ago, so it might be worth contacting him for those of you "over there".

All of Gordon's books remain well and truly in print and available at their cover prices. One addendum, Trees Part One has just been reprinted, so now matches Trees Part Two in price at £21.95.

I'm very happy to supply bookshops anywhere with Wild Swan books.

Simon
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
I'm very happy to supply bookshops anywhere with Wild Swan books.
That's pretty much what I would have expected.

I have no issue with purchasing new. It's just that at times it's simpler if you could find items "locally", saving postage and potential headache. US outline modelers in the UK know this well enough. Although sending things here from elsewhere doesn't seem nearly as tedious as the other way around can be.

I am interested in both the Deciduous Trees volume as well as the Grasslands volume. Ordering direct seems the least expensive alternative, so I will do that.

Has anybody utilized the techniques found in the Grasslands volume to successful outcome? I'd love to see some examples if possible.

Jim
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Continuing with where I stray from or modify Gordon Gravett's techniques, I'm not a fan of using Artex or similar to represent the bark for the following reasons:
  • The coat of PVA glue applied to the armature to improve adhesion of the mixture is difficult to apply to bare wire and it takes quite a long time to thoroughly dry
  • Even after coating the armature with PVA glue, I haven't found the mixture adheres at all well to the wire, especially if it's thin wire
  • The mixture sets too quickly for me and although I've tried retarders I always feel rushed in case the mixture starts to set up
  • The final result is brittle, even with copious amounts of PVA added to the mixture
So, instead I use Staedtler FIMO modelling clay (easily sourced from art supply shops or, as ever, Amazon) in two ways.

First, I wrap a thin layer of the clay (I use black) around the main trunk(s) and primary limbs of the armature, pressing and shaping it by hand:
IMG_6695.jpg

and once happy with the overall shape I stipple the surface of the clay with a stiff brush to represent the bark texture:
IMG_6700.jpg

[Note, these photographs were taken after I had added the fine wire to represent the secondary growth on the main trunk but that would be the next step - inserting fine wire directly into the clay.]

Once I'm happy, the clay-clad armature is put in an oven set at 110C for 30minutes to harden.

The next step involves mixing some fresh clay with Sculpey Clay Softener (again, easily sourced from art supply shops or Amazon):
IMG_6694.jpg

to a create a brushable mixture:
IMG_6704.jpg

This 'gloopy' mixture is then carefully brushed onto the secondary limbs and terminal branches (which I add to the armature immediately after applying and baking the coat of clay to the main trunk) and subsequently hardened in an oven set at 110C for 45minutes. This step may well need to be repeated in order to build up the correct thickness of the branches - this photograph was taken after the first application and as you can see additional layers are still needed towards the top of the tree:
IMG_6699.jpg

Note, the Sculpey-softened clay doesn't set completely hard even after being baked several times - it sets to a firm, rubbery consistency and so it's not easily damaged unlike Artex.

Currently the trees which will be positioned in the landscape side-by-side are as shown here - I will post additional photographs once they're ready to paint:
IMG_6697.jpg
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Superb trees: Mr Gravett has serious competition!

When baking in the oven, I assume you remove the card or resin base?
 

chrisb

Western Thunderer
Much warmer and drier weather recently has allowed for some spray painting of the trees.

After an initial coat of flat black undercoat from a spray can, a 50/50-ish mixture of Tamiya Khaki (XF-49) and Neutral Grey (XF-53) was airbrushed on and followed, once dry, by a spray with Vallejo Model Wash Dark Grey (76.517).

Following this, Tamiya Deck Tan (XF-55), Medium Grey (XF-20) and NATO Green (XF-67) were individually dry-brushed.

Another spray with the Vallejo Model Wash toned everything down although it left a slight sheen so a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear (XF-86) with a drop of Tamiya Flat Base (X-21) added (to ensure completely flat finish) was airbrushed over trees and base:
IMG_8522.jpg

All that remains now is to add some spots of lichen and a little ivy, which I hadn't originally intended but closer examination of the photograph on which the trees are based shows that there was some ivy in/around the secondary growth towards the base of the trunks.
 
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