1361 First Service.

davey4270

Western Thunderer
1361 heads towards the coal loading shed at Graig Wen Colliery for the early morning shunt.
It is just out of Crymlyn A Shop after a light overhaul.
1361 is a brass rtr product from San (Randolph) Chang sold under the Tower Models brand.
Correct smoke box door fitted and painted by Chris Basten of Dragon Models.
Lightly weathered by Barry Oliver. Apparently there were only 150 produced.

A90158DC-2514-43BE-8B32-7D98311D0CDE.jpeg
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
I've got one of them as well. Lovely little locos suitable for small shunting layouts like my under construction one.

There was a problem with it when new, some solder paste has set on one of the rear springs stopping it from compressing and the centre wheels were actually off the floor. The solder was carefully removed from the locating pin and then it worked Ok.
I’m building up quite a collection of small shunting locos.
So far:
1361, 1142, 1144, 1143, 1338, 1140, Hercules, 679, 359 Hilda, 29 & 1147. There’s pictures of most of them on this site.
1361 is the only rtr, the others I’ve built from kits.
 

cbrailways

Western Thunderer
Yes, I've had a few minor problems with odd things falling off, but soon fixed. Mine is No.1363 (shedded at 83D) and is DCC and sound fitted, both by TOWER MODELS. It was painted and weathered by them as well. Don't know who does that for them, but whoever it was they made a very good job of it. Overall an excellent model (and very heavy)!

Interested to see your comment about the smoke box door. Do you have a photograph showing that for comparison purposes?

Pleased to see as well that I'm not the only one that has a collection of small shunting locomotives.
 
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davey4270

Western Thunderer
Yes, I've had a few minor problems with odd things falling off, but soon fixed. Mine is No.1363 (shedded at 83D) and is DCC and sound fitted, both by TOWER MODELS. It was painted and weathered by them as well. Don't know who does that for them, but whoever it was they made a very good job of it. Overall an excellent model (and very heavy)!

Interested to see your comment about the smoke box door. Do you have a photograph showing that for comparison purposes?

Pleased to see as well that I'm not the only one that has a collection of small shunting locomotives.

it’s difficult to get a clear shot with my phone’s camera but will try with my slr and macro lens if you want. The door is flat at the outside and only dishes out nearer the centre. The model is fitted with a fully dished out door while the prototype had possibly a Dean style door.
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Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
Correct smoke box door fitted and painted ...
I made mine by pressing and fitting a turned ring:

GWR1361SmokeboxB_A.jpg


GWR1361SmokeboxDoorOld-New.jpg

Before (left) and after
I have written a description, in captioned pictures, of how I did it on my GWR 1361 class webpage.

It was a fun exercise and I learnt a bit because I'd not made one quite like this before.

David
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
I’ve read your article on your 1363 and I was unclear about the open gearbox as mine has a plate covering the bottom with Tower Brass on it. I’m guessing that Tower had it fitted to the models they supplied. You said that you had yours from Randolph so perhaps it was removed or never fitted. I can post a picture if you like. I like the suspension you fitted to the centre axle as the model will rock on this if you press on either end but I’ve not noticed it when running.
 

Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
I was unclear about the open gearbox as mine has a plate covering the bottom ...
Ah, yes. Sorry, I am never sure how much detail to go into (heavily reworked RTR is surely a minor interest?) and, even then, I do not always manage to make myself clear!

My model was perfectly standard, it just did not 'work' - I found that the quartring was out, that was all.

GWR1361FramesBefore.jpg

The frames as they were with the cover-plate running full length below the frames
and the motor rigidly attached

I did write on
my page about 1361:

"I reduced the depth of the frames, as they were far too deep, and I exchanged them left for right, which allowed me to push the frames out so that they were 27.5mm overall and to fit wider stretches (frame spacers). The flanges at the top of the frames, which originally turned outwards, now turned inwards and I removed all the portions that were not required to leave lugs to hold the horn block keepers and springs; not only did this improve the appearance, it allowed the motor and gearbox to fit easily between the frames.

GWR1361FramesFrontEnd.jpg

"Although I needed to allow for this extra width in reattaching the cylinders, sand boxes and so on, it was not difficult and resulted in a pleasingly small gap between the back of the wheel and the frames."

GWR1361BrakesCross-shaft.jpg


I like the suspension you fitted to the centre axle as the model will rock on this if you press on either end but I’ve not noticed it when running.
Thank you, Dave. I cannot remember now but, if it was anything like Randolph's other excellent offerings, the springs were so stiff that they never compressed and the loco was effectively rigid-framed; that's probably why you don't see yours rocking about the centre axle. I fitted much softer springs that compress under the (addded) weight of the loco.

I can post a picture if you like.
That might well be helpful for others who are following this part of the thread.

GWR1361_3-4LHS.jpg

David
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
View attachment 130245 View attachment 130245
Ah, yes. Sorry, I am never sure how much detail to go into (heavily reworked RTR is surely a minor interest?) and, even then, I do not always manage to make myself clear!

My model was perfectly standard, it just did not 'work' - I found that the quartring was out, that was all.

GWR1361FramesBefore.jpg

The frames as they were with the cover-plate running full length below the frames
and the motor rigidly attached

I did write on
my page about 1361:

"I reduced the depth of the frames, as they were far too deep, and I exchanged them left for right, which allowed me to push the frames out so that they were 27.5mm overall and to fit wider stretches (frame spacers). The flanges at the top of the frames, which originally turned outwards, now turned inwards and I removed all the portions that were not required to leave lugs to hold the horn block keepers and springs; not only did this improve the appearance, it allowed the motor and gearbox to fit easily between the frames.

GWR1361FramesFrontEnd.jpg

"Although I needed to allow for this extra width in reattaching the cylinders, sand boxes and so on, it was not difficult and resulted in a pleasingly small gap between the back of the wheel and the frames."

GWR1361BrakesCross-shaft.jpg



Thank you, Dave. I cannot remember now but, if it was anything like Randolph's other excellent offerings, the springs were so stiff that they never compressed and the loco was effectively rigid-framed; that's probably why you don't see yours rocking about the centre axle. I fitted much softer springs that compress under the (addded) weight of the loco.


That might well be helpful for others who are following this part of the thread.

GWR1361_3-4LHS.jpg

David
View attachment 130245
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
@Isambarduk

Hi David

Not on a 1361 but I have a 1366 which needs new, shorter and fatter cylinders. How did you do yours?

My 1361 is a rtr San Cheng so came already built. What is your models origin? Could they be removed and a set substituted. Mercian have a kit and Trevor might supply you with a set. I'm not too sure about the build quality though.

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Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
Not on a 1361 but I have a 1366 which needs new, shorter and fatter cylinders. How did you do yours?

Chris, Hi,

I don't have an image, sorry, but for each cylinder I turned up a spool shape (probably from 1/2" diameter brass bar) so that, effectively, I had two circular discs that are held at the correct distance by a central core.

At one end I drilled out the centre to take the piston rod and the stuffing box, and nearer the edges to take the slide bars. I also turned a recess in each of the discs to locate the cylinder wrapper.

By making thin discs, rather than leaving a solid cylinder, it is easy to solder on the cylinder wrapper, without all the heat being drawn away.


GWR1361VacEjector.jpg

Without a lathe, I think it would be quite possible to replicate this with hand tools alone.

Bests, David
 
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Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
My 1361 is a rtr San Cheng so came already built.
Assuming that you meant 1366 (rather than 1361) and if I my be so bold, might your loco also sport the similarly undernourished cylinders supplied by San Cheng Crafts? David

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