4mm An EM Workbench: Mini-Signwriting (rough)
- Thread starter AJC
- Start date
AJC
Western Thunderer
No problem Dave. My description is simply what works for me. The logic of doing the horizontals as one comes from finding it much, much easier to paint one long line than lots of short ones and getting them all to line up. I suppose another way might be to use a bow pen or lining pen and a straight edge. I have been known to run a line of masking tape top and bottom just to make sure. You can run a sharpened cocktail stick along to the to straighten things out afterwards if required too.
Matt does work reasonably well for large lettering (a PO livery on a 7mm mineral for example), but tends to be a pig for the smaller stuff. I can't make it thin enough to flow without going everywhere. I found this out the hard way for a club competition wagon. The legend 'DENABY' went ok, but the smaller, pool lettering - for this was a post WW2 era coal wagon - really didn't work. A second coat is often a good idea too.
Gloss or satin, being stickier tends at least to stay where I put it. This may even be where I wanted it to go.
Adam
Matt does work reasonably well for large lettering (a PO livery on a 7mm mineral for example), but tends to be a pig for the smaller stuff. I can't make it thin enough to flow without going everywhere. I found this out the hard way for a club competition wagon. The legend 'DENABY' went ok, but the smaller, pool lettering - for this was a post WW2 era coal wagon - really didn't work. A second coat is often a good idea too.
Gloss or satin, being stickier tends at least to stay where I put it. This may even be where I wanted it to go.
Adam
Dad's work
Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Knickers; I've only just caught this thread... 
Love the PMV, in 7mm that would be a stirling job; in 4mm it's magnificent! Reminds me - there's a half-drawn set of etch artwork sitting on an old PC around here somewhere...
Steph
Love the PMV, in 7mm that would be a stirling job; in 4mm it's magnificent! Reminds me - there's a half-drawn set of etch artwork sitting on an old PC around here somewhere...
Steph
AJC
Western Thunderer
It's not as if I update it all that often Steph, but I'm glad you like it. All dad's work I hasten to add, but he doesn't 'do' forums - entirely his prerogative - but it's so nice that it's good for people to be able to see it since the club layout doesn't get about much.
Adam
Adam
Monobloc (Bachmann TTV)
AJC
Western Thunderer
Following on from Dog Star's tribulations with the NLTRT TTA, here's one of a matching pair of recently completed wagon projects. It's not a TTA, nor even a TTV - it's in too early a condition to be called either, and Bachmann have clearly at least seen this Paul Bartlett collection shot - http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brttanks/h7fbfd8#h7fbfd8 - but it shows what can be done relatively easily with the Bachmann OO model.
Above the solebar, all I did was to replace the catwalks with the appropriate version from S Kits. They aren't perfect, but are much, much better than what went before. Otherwise, I added new buffers (ABS on this, MJT - sprung - on the other), brakeshoes (ABS - though I reused the Bachmann ones on the second one), new brake levers and guides (spares from Dave Bradwell), stirrup steps and replacement brake rigging from scraps of plastic and nickel wire with screw couplings from Masokits. Note that, like the real thing, these were spaced away from the headstock. In model form, this eases the process of getting them round corners while coupled, but most of the other vehicles in the rake (half a dozen Airfix kits at present) have sprung buffers so these rigid buffers won't matter. This last shot, showing the wagon on its back should show most of the mod's clearly.
There should, probably, be numbers on the ends to the right of the ladders but I haven't any suitable transfers in hand.
Adam
Above the solebar, all I did was to replace the catwalks with the appropriate version from S Kits. They aren't perfect, but are much, much better than what went before. Otherwise, I added new buffers (ABS on this, MJT - sprung - on the other), brakeshoes (ABS - though I reused the Bachmann ones on the second one), new brake levers and guides (spares from Dave Bradwell), stirrup steps and replacement brake rigging from scraps of plastic and nickel wire with screw couplings from Masokits. Note that, like the real thing, these were spaced away from the headstock. In model form, this eases the process of getting them round corners while coupled, but most of the other vehicles in the rake (half a dozen Airfix kits at present) have sprung buffers so these rigid buffers won't matter. This last shot, showing the wagon on its back should show most of the mod's clearly.
There should, probably, be numbers on the ends to the right of the ladders but I haven't any suitable transfers in hand.
Adam
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Very nice photos Adam and an interesting desciption of the work which you did with the underframe. I used the zoom facility to look at the last photo and I looked in vain... no connection between the brake cross-shaft and the brake yokes, oh well there is always Ropley (in the snow this weekend?)
regards, Graham
regards, Graham
AJC
Western Thunderer
Hi Graham
I'm afraid I uploaded these photos at a relatively small size - the light being dreadful today -and as you say, the detail you're after isn't present. Partly because I've no idea what it should look like and in 4mm you'd have a job to tell if it were there or not since it'll be on the wagon centreline and well shielded from view behind the brakeshoes and those solid 'W' irons. Added to that, this vehicle will form part of a block train, so won't often be seen stationary and close to. There comes a time when you have to stop. Well, sometimes there does...
Adam
I'm afraid I uploaded these photos at a relatively small size - the light being dreadful today -and as you say, the detail you're after isn't present. Partly because I've no idea what it should look like and in 4mm you'd have a job to tell if it were there or not since it'll be on the wagon centreline and well shielded from view behind the brakeshoes and those solid 'W' irons. Added to that, this vehicle will form part of a block train, so won't often be seen stationary and close to. There comes a time when you have to stop. Well, sometimes there does...
Adam
Coil Wagons
AJC
Western Thunderer
I dug out a couple of things yesterday evening that I'd started over Christmas but had no time to get back to. Not that I've actually done very much; just fitted a set of bogies acquired at the Southampton show to a Christmas-started scratchbuild.
... well, one of a pair of scratchbuilds. When you're working from a few measurements from a weight diagram and a handful of photos it makes sense to use the measurements twice - it saves marking out and loosing the bit of paper you've written the things down on if you want to make another. Anyway, eventually I shall have a pair of these, Coil Ks. These one piece Cambrian bogies certainly make things a lot easier than assembling the old three-part type. The bogie frames aren't really deep enough but they look about right. Unfortunately, Rural Railways only had the one pair in stock so the pivots on the bogie-less vehicle came from a set of Gloucester cast bogies which are going under a back-converted Bachmann BDA. It doesn't especially matter since I'm now out of disc wheels!
EDIT: Just noticed that there's a pair - among a cut of Shochood Bs by the looks of things - of these Coil Ks in the backdrop of this shot of Oxley:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71592768@N08/6980202629/in/set-72157629939452747/lightbox/
Adam
... well, one of a pair of scratchbuilds. When you're working from a few measurements from a weight diagram and a handful of photos it makes sense to use the measurements twice - it saves marking out and loosing the bit of paper you've written the things down on if you want to make another. Anyway, eventually I shall have a pair of these, Coil Ks. These one piece Cambrian bogies certainly make things a lot easier than assembling the old three-part type. The bogie frames aren't really deep enough but they look about right. Unfortunately, Rural Railways only had the one pair in stock so the pivots on the bogie-less vehicle came from a set of Gloucester cast bogies which are going under a back-converted Bachmann BDA. It doesn't especially matter since I'm now out of disc wheels!
EDIT: Just noticed that there's a pair - among a cut of Shochood Bs by the looks of things - of these Coil Ks in the backdrop of this shot of Oxley:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/71592768@N08/6980202629/in/set-72157629939452747/lightbox/
Adam
AJC
Western Thunderer
Also unearthed from the corners of the workbench are this pair, the bodies rescued from the bottom of dad's spares box and married with underframes from the bottom of mine, whence also came the wheels. 
A Parkside pipe on a stretched 10' wheelbase chassis. The original is now under a Conflat B, stalled awaiting lettering - http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/conflatbafp/h164c1583#h164c1583 - It's always useful to have some kind of open wagon on the go - somewhere to put all the little bits that might otherwise go AWOL (0.5mm drills are a favourite, short lengths of L section, the odd tin of Humbrol...)
Talking of Conflats, take one Airfix(?) body - for the GW version I think - trim the chain pocket so it's level with the bottom of the solebar and add a Red Panda chassis. This one will have eight shoe brakegear, the Lowfit the chassis came with has 10' Morton. It may keep the spoked wheels, which I have half an idea might be MGW, they've certainly been around for thirty years or thereabouts. Having gained its couplings, back in the box it goes...
Adam
A Parkside pipe on a stretched 10' wheelbase chassis. The original is now under a Conflat B, stalled awaiting lettering - http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/conflatbafp/h164c1583#h164c1583 - It's always useful to have some kind of open wagon on the go - somewhere to put all the little bits that might otherwise go AWOL (0.5mm drills are a favourite, short lengths of L section, the odd tin of Humbrol...)
Talking of Conflats, take one Airfix(?) body - for the GW version I think - trim the chain pocket so it's level with the bottom of the solebar and add a Red Panda chassis. This one will have eight shoe brakegear, the Lowfit the chassis came with has 10' Morton. It may keep the spoked wheels, which I have half an idea might be MGW, they've certainly been around for thirty years or thereabouts. Having gained its couplings, back in the box it goes...
Adam
AJC
Western Thunderer
Assuming anyone else is actually watching, another of dad's models, and so appropriate given where we are: D 1011, Western Thunderer.
I can only assume it's failed and the crew are attempting to work out why. Lousy photo by me, re-worked and re-engineered LIMA Western by dad. The cosmetics are improved by Brassmasters, the compensated, chain drive bogies -effectively A1A if I remember rightly - with a centre motor and big flywheels are all dad's work. This is proper engineering.
Adam
I can only assume it's failed and the crew are attempting to work out why. Lousy photo by me, re-worked and re-engineered LIMA Western by dad. The cosmetics are improved by Brassmasters, the compensated, chain drive bogies -effectively A1A if I remember rightly - with a centre motor and big flywheels are all dad's work. This is proper engineering.
Adam
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Dog Star
Western Thunderer
Well the engine is ok... tell us more about the PW S&C work - front and back flexible stretcher bars, nice! I mentioned on the Basingstoke Show thread that such details are not common.
regards, Graham
regards, Graham
AJC
Western Thunderer
Goodness - that's the work of Bob Phelps I think and the point rodding is the Colin Waite stuff which is fully functional: it was the only way of making the crossover on the viaduct work and is still reliable after what must be about 30 years. This is 'South Junction' EM tailchaser belonging to Yeovil MRG and something of a museum of finescale track methods. We have Ratio, PECO individulay flatbottom on the main running lines, assorted K&L/C&L not to mention ply and rivet and copperclad around the place.
That it's the only point rodding on the layout is something we don't talk about... I have made a batch of dummy Westinghouse point motors to attempt to redress this, but really I need a few more: they're an ideal application for resin casting. The are some colour lights in stock to do something about the signalling but we need incentive - an exhibition invite for example - to actually do something about this.
Adam
That it's the only point rodding on the layout is something we don't talk about... I have made a batch of dummy Westinghouse point motors to attempt to redress this, but really I need a few more: they're an ideal application for resin casting. The are some colour lights in stock to do something about the signalling but we need incentive - an exhibition invite for example - to actually do something about this.
Adam
Pennine MC
Western Thunderer
AJC
Western Thunderer
I'd worked out the chaining points Ian - they're simple enough to add fortunately - and to add a container I'd have to replace the existing ones anyway. Although the loops to hold the chain are a fiddle they're only a fiddle and not actually impossible. Thanks for the aide mémoire though.
The point about turning the open over is familiar. Oh yes...
Adam
The point about turning the open over is familiar. Oh yes...
Adam
Bogie Bolster D (from Bachmann BDA)
AJC
Western Thunderer
The other item cluttering up the workbench at the moment - and it's that long that it does get in the way - is this Bogie Bolster D, back converted from the Bachmann BDA. Yes, I know that there's a Cambrian kit for this vary type, but the little underbody gussets on the solebars are the very devil to do (though not all had them), and well, it was quite cheap. The principal differences between the BDA and a diagram 1/484 are the bogies and the number of bolster. Oh, and air brakes but that's by the by.
Here's the full thing:
The Cambrian bogies with the 'one piece' mainframes aren't too bad, but the bolster detail could be a lot better (and should stick out more). The spoked wheels are temporary; they're there to set up the ride height on the new bogies. Anyone want a pair of untouched Bachmann Y25s?
View showing the new bolsters, built up from plastic strip. Note the Vac' pipe.
A rather better view showing the modifications to the deck. The chain rings are inset into the deck - tricky, but worth the effort. The technique is to mark out where they go, cut into the deck all around with a scalpel and using the same, make a series of nicks at an angle. Some form of 'micro-chisel' does the rest, in my case the sharpened remains of a broken jeweller's screwdriver. The chaining rings themselves are simply lengths of tinned copper wire about 0.4mm diameter wrapped round a 1.5mm drill and carefully cut off one at a time with a scalpel (be very wary while doing this). These are secured into the deck by means of a 1mm hole and a split pin made from the same wire. The theory is that I'll be able to chain a load to the thing in prototypical fashion. Don't hold your breath. The other bit of plastic with the square hole, by the way, is the spare location for the moveable end bolster.
The next puzzle is how to make the oblong holes for the bolster pins. Any ideas?
Adam
Here's the full thing:
The Cambrian bogies with the 'one piece' mainframes aren't too bad, but the bolster detail could be a lot better (and should stick out more). The spoked wheels are temporary; they're there to set up the ride height on the new bogies. Anyone want a pair of untouched Bachmann Y25s?
View showing the new bolsters, built up from plastic strip. Note the Vac' pipe.
A rather better view showing the modifications to the deck. The chain rings are inset into the deck - tricky, but worth the effort. The technique is to mark out where they go, cut into the deck all around with a scalpel and using the same, make a series of nicks at an angle. Some form of 'micro-chisel' does the rest, in my case the sharpened remains of a broken jeweller's screwdriver. The chaining rings themselves are simply lengths of tinned copper wire about 0.4mm diameter wrapped round a 1.5mm drill and carefully cut off one at a time with a scalpel (be very wary while doing this). These are secured into the deck by means of a 1mm hole and a split pin made from the same wire. The theory is that I'll be able to chain a load to the thing in prototypical fashion. Don't hold your breath. The other bit of plastic with the square hole, by the way, is the spare location for the moveable end bolster.
The next puzzle is how to make the oblong holes for the bolster pins. Any ideas?
Adam
Simon
Flying Squad
That looks very good Adam
How about oblong strips of tomato puree tube? It cuts really easily, you can file the edges, it'll easily bend to form the "pocket", you could impress rivets/bolts in to it from "behind" with a pointy thing and it takes paint well.
And it's free
Simon
How about oblong strips of tomato puree tube? It cuts really easily, you can file the edges, it'll easily bend to form the "pocket", you could impress rivets/bolts in to it from "behind" with a pointy thing and it takes paint well.
And it's free
Simon
AJC
Western Thunderer
Thanks Simon - have a look at the real thing, it's the sockets I'm pondering.
http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbolsterd484/h1e59ff22#h1e59ff22
If it were thin sheet then a punch would be the obvious option. As a length of 60 thou' plastic, it's not so straightforward. I think I've got a cunning plan, but I'll have to check whether I can make it work... The bolster pins themselves are easy; Masokits do a nice little etch which folds over and solders up into something nigh-on indestructible.
Adam
http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbolsterd484/h1e59ff22#h1e59ff22
If it were thin sheet then a punch would be the obvious option. As a length of 60 thou' plastic, it's not so straightforward. I think I've got a cunning plan, but I'll have to check whether I can make it work... The bolster pins themselves are easy; Masokits do a nice little etch which folds over and solders up into something nigh-on indestructible.
Adam