4mm Brassmasters Rebuilt Royal Scot, 46109

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
The cylinder drain cocks and operating linkage have been fitted and, I'm fairly sure, that completes the cylinder/valve gear unit.
Scot_139.JPG
In this photo, the connecting and eccentric rods have been disconnected from their crank pin; hence the strange angles.
Dave.
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
I think I've just experienced a modelling first.
Not much work on the Scot recently as I've been occupied by other things but am making a jig to position the angle section sand pipe supports and, for the first time I think, I've had to change a piercing saw blade because the teeth were worn out, rather than because I broke it!
Dave.
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
The jig mentioned above is now complete and ready to use. Probably a bit of over-kill, but there are 8 supports to be accurately positioned for depth below the frames and spacing either side of the axle.
The jig clamps to the spring part of the keeper plates and can be adjusted for position before tightening the clamp screws (the larger head in the photo). There are pivoted side pieces that hold the 0.8 mm angle material for the sand pipe supports. They can be hinged out of the way to allow the jig to be removed once the angle is soldered to the mounting tags on the spring part.
Here's the front section of keeper plate and the jig with the side parts hinged away.
Scot_140.JPG
And here the jig is clamped to one of the springs and a lash bit of 0.8 mm angle held in position by the side part moved into the working position. The support angles need to have a bend in them so they lie against the mounting tag which can just be seen above the jig.
Scot_141.JPG
Hope it works in practice.
Dave.
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Here's a not particularly good photo of the jig in use. You can just about make out the nearer support angle held in the LHS of the jig and soldered to its mounting tag. The one one the other side is already attached.
Scot_142.JPG
Only another six to do.
Dave.
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Not that much progress since the last entry. I've been putting off the next steps and busying myself with some non-modelling activities to avoid having to tackle the sand pipes. Where's the problem with those I hear you ask - just bits of bent brass wire. Mmm....., not quite that straightforward on the Scot, especially if you want them to come away with the keeper plate.
Anyway, a start has been made.....
Frames with all eight support struts fitted:
Scot_143.JPG
Just visible in this shot is one of the notches cut into the bottom edge of the frame, into which a bracket attached to the ash pan side protrudes to lie flat against the frames and form part of the sand pipe support. In this way, the sand pipes, which extend up to (through) the footplate, are actually mounted on the keeper. The arrangement is shown in these photos:
Scot_144.JPG

Scot_145.JPG

Just have to motivate myself to plough on with the others, now.
Dave.
 

dibateg

Western Thunderer
I'm with you on that one Dave - I hate doing sand pipes and their supports.... The pipes curve in all directions and there is never anywhere easy to mount the supports. I usually put that off as long as possible!

Regards
Tony
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
I've now fitted the treads to the rear steps and finally got round to bending the front guard irons (part of the frames) to shape. Just for fun, the chassis was posed with the tender from Black 5, 45232, to see how the steps align. Pretty well, as can be seen. Of course, the proper Scot tender is a fully
Scot_148.JPG

Dave.
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Apart from the motor/gearbox torque restrainer and the pick-ups, I think the chassis is now complete. The last cosmetic items fitted were the front foot steps and bracing struts and the two injector overflow pipes.
All the parts have been re-assembled, partly to check the assembly sequence. After inserting ten 14 BA screws into the keeper plate, I discovered that the eccentric strap cannot be fitted into the sheaf unless the axle is partially withdrawn from the horns - somewhat frustrating but, hopefully, I'll remember for the future. With the keeper plate split in two (a mistake I now realise) and entwined with the brake rigging and the exhaust injector steam pipe floating around, it's a bit of a fiddle to get everything into place so the screws can be fitted. Three pinged out of the tweezers but were later retrieved, much to my relief.
Here we see both sides and the under side and top.
Scot_149.JPG

Scot_150.JPG
Scot_151.JPG
Scot_152.JPG

Dave.
 

David Boorman

Active Member
As always I am bowled over by your attention to detail, in particular pipework, below the running plate. Even more particularly, underneath the cab, and I can see that yet again you make sense and practicality given all the limitations. Any chance of any more close up illustrative photos of that area -please! This has prompted me to ask if you have either completed, or may complete in the future, the under cab pipework for a Patriot? I have both 4mm and 7mm Patriot kits stalled because I can' t find enough evidence of which pipes go where - and I really don't want to guess!
Cheers! David
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
Thanks for your kind comments, David.
If you look back to page 3 of this thread, you'll find a series of photos (not that kind of "Page 3"!) showing the pipework under the cab - all except the overflows, that is. If you still need more, I'll try to take some more from other angles.
Sorry I haven't got any plans for a Patriot and haven't really any detailed information regarding the pipe layout. I imagine they follow either the original Scot, or the later Jubilees, in the basic arrangements - more likely the former. looking at published photos of original Patriots, the visible pipework near the cab steps and the exhaust injector orientation and mounting arrangements look very similar to the Scots. One possible difference, resulting from the shorter length behind the rear drivers is that the exhaust steam pipe to the injector is bent in at a sharper angle, maybe even a right angle, immediately in front of the injector.
Hope these thoughts help a bit.
Dave.
 

David Boorman

Active Member
How did I jump past those great photos?!! They are so helpful for the Scot. Your comments about the Patriot are very insightful. I'm very tempted to drop everything and pursue those lines of thought!
 

Dave Holt

Western Thunderer
In order to delay having to sort out the pick-ups, I've allowed myself to be distracted by bending lengths of 0.8 mm brass wire to represent the two injector delivery pipes and the train vacuum pipe under the footplate. Under the front end of the cab, these align (more or less) with the aft part of the pipes which are part of the chassis. Because of the vacuum pipe on the driver's side, the two delivery pipes are not symmetrical.
Having previously said that the chassis was complete except the pick-ups, I now realise that I haven't quite completed the hopper ash-pan operating lever.
A general view from underneath.
Scot_154.JPG

The driver's side, with the injector delivery pipe below the valance and clipped to the vacuum pipe directly above, but hidden. On the fireman's side, the delivery pipe is further outboard and higher up, hidden behind the valance.
Scot_155.JPG
Dave.
 
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