Cookie's Workbench - 7/8ths Alan Keef K40

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Definitely possible CK, I'm just going to swap between the two figures as I like the fact their hands 'grip' the rear cab rail :)

Back on with the coach for the moment. The ends were glued in place a week or so ago, despite them being over width, its just as easy to trim them down in situ.

IPEC2 End glued on.jpg

After a quick sanding down to make the ends the correct width (a bit of 80 grade emery paper makes short work of 1.5mm thick ply) the next job was to modify the outer fret. There is nowt wrong with it as it stands, but as a fair few people are building these coaches its nice to do something slightly different.

IPEC3 Fret.jpg

The four vertical parts of the fret for the bottom of the doors were removed, creating panelling similar to that on Carriage 18 on the Ffestiniog railway. As I'm going for a similar colour scheme (albeit dark blue rather than black (well, today anyway :rolleyes:)) I thought I'd use a bit more inspiration from that coach to tide me along.

IPEC4 Fret trimmed.jpg

You can see the error between fret and windows cut outs on the outermost windows. Before fixing that, the fret was glued in place using superglue and some brass bar used to weight everything in place whilst the glue dried.

IPEC5 Weighted down.jpg

A bit of sanding saw the window openings enlarged to make the mismatch less obvious (not that this photo shows that particularly well!). The droplights were glued in place, tacking them in with superglue (using accelerator to speed the process up), then filling in any resulting gaps with white glue, but from the rear.

IPEC6 Windows trimmed.jpg

As expected, the frets for the end were oversized

IPEC7 Over width ends.jpg

so they were trimmed down

IPEC8 Outer trim removed.jpg

until they fitted nicely between the side frets

IPEC9 Noted buffer beam and glue.jpg

Aside from the bizarre and not yet modified buffer beams, the basic carcass is now complete

IPEC10 Assembly.jpg

I am just gluing in some extra strips on the ends to thicken up the fret where it meets the sides, it looks a little thin without them.

IPEC11 Extra strips glued in.jpg

They will get sanded down tomorrow whilst I apply filler where its needed and ruminate on whether I'm going to do panels for the interior, or just glue basic seats in place and be done with it. I don't want too much work, there is one more to build like this, then two more to engage in some mating exercise to create a bogie coach :)

Steve
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
With the strips sanded down to size on the corners, the chosen wheels were chucked underneath the body to try and gauge a suitable ride height and to see what kind of axleboxes would be required. Up against the Decauville first

IPEC12 Against the Dec.jpg

Then the Bagnall

IPEC13 Against the Bag.jpg

A set of slate wagon axleboxes were in my spares pile, which combined with strips of wood from the kit, enabled a suitable set of inner solebars to be glued together.

IPEC14 Solebars.jpg

Mocked up, it looks OK, buts its going to need the buffer beams sorting out real soon - I just need to pick which couplers to use first.

IPEC15 On its wheels.jpg

An outer set of solebars are needed and I think I'd like both upper and lower footboards as well. Just need to work out the easiest way of creating all the brackets needed first, so while the brain churns that over, its back to the Bagnall.

This is number two, the original 'clanky' version being swapped for a quieter one. Its not perfect, but its a lot better so I shall probably do a bit more fettling when the chance to run it again arises...

AB14 Blown Apart.jpg

About five minutes later, the boiler and cab sides were off too :D

The replacement chimney was rubbed down, as were the smoke box and chimney base. The standard exhaust was also cleaned up as it sits level with the top of the lowered chimney and needs disguising for the moment. A quick jig was knocked up using some wood offcuts to hold everything whilst a spare chunk of brass was threaded so the chimney could be screwed in place.

AB15 Prep for Paint.jpg

It was all given three coats of Rustoleum BBQ Paint, then baked in the oven at 100degC for 30 minutes.

AB16 Baked in the oven.jpg

I had planned on making a replacement safety valve with the aim of keeping its profile very low and letting me modify the modelled pipework, alas the M10 x 1.0 die I bought is only good enough for chasing existing threads and I can't for the life of me get the ruddy thing to actually start and cut a thread. I've tried tapered lead ins etc and just got nowhere, so a better one is on its way. Its a shame as the M12 x 1 die from the same stable works lovely. Ah well.

I took that as an opportunity to have a play with the saddle tank. I have to say, I'm not convinced the model one is quite right, I think its a little tall and too wide, despite being told its based off a good set of drawings. I keep looking at photos though, so having convinced myself it needs changing, the debate is by how much. Some cardboard and sticky backed plastic later, a waft with Halfords primer and a rough colour approximation slapped on, I have a new tank to try out :)

AB17 Cardboard tank.jpg

Its about 4mm narrower per side and has an overall height 3mm lower than the original.

The model is apparently based on Woto, so being a bit cheeky I've found this photo on the net and tried to take similar angle shots with both tanks.

AB18 Woto.jpg
AB19 New Tank.jpg
AB20 Old Tank.jpg

I think the cardboard mock up does a better job of replicating the real thing in terms of proportions, particularly comparing the visible parts of the tank front in relation to the smokebox and looking at the tank edges as they sit inboard of the cab sides. You could probably argue the toss for making it ever so slight narrower and shorter again, but I'm inclined to aim at what I've got so far and leave myself with a little room for fabrication error.

Pleased with the way the chimney turned out too, its not quite sat on its saddle properly at the moment so thats another small job for tomorrow, hopefully fixing that should make the join between the two parts slightly less obvious. Looking forward to hunting for extra parts at the Garden Railway Show at Peterborough this Saturday, my ever growing shopping list includes cast handles for the smokebox door and a set of makers plates.

Steve
 

Simon

Flying Squad
I think you are definitely on to something with the tank, it is a subtle change but makes a lot of difference to the look I think. The chimney is a work of art in itself, I really must get out and use my lathe some more this year...

Simon
 

unklian

Western Thunderer
The cardboard tank looks better to me too. But don't your passengers deserve a bit of suspension on that coach ? Even better if it actually worked .
Just saying ;)
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
They're just going to have to be grateful for roof and windows - bloomin' 3rd Class lot, expecting champagne class on a beer money budget ;):D
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
The front and rear parts of the new saddle tank have come out OK, which is more than can be said for my attempts to fabricate the outer wrapper :mad:

Two failed attempts so far using 0.7mm nickel silver sheet, annealing hasn't helped and my rollers just seem to impart a curve along the width of the material when I want just a curve over its length.

AB21 Saddle tank front and rear plates.jpg

I was about to get a bit grumpy about it all when the new M10 x 1 die turned up, so I put the sheet metal down and got back on the lathe.
Everything worked out better today, so here are all the bits for the safety valve.

AB22 Safety Valve components.jpg

The reason for making a new one is the rather obtrusive safety valve cover on the model.

AB23 Safety Valve cover.jpg

Its needed because the standard safety valve is so large

AB24 Original Safety Valve.jpg

I've used a lot of the space inside the mounting bush to house as much of the workings on mine as I can, the new valve will protrude significantly less above the bush as a result.

AB25 Size Comparison.jpg

With it mounted

AB26 On location.jpg

The internals are based on the modified safety valve on my Aster Castle which has proved itself maintaining or venting pressure at 60 psi, the Bagnall runs at 50 psi so in theory it should function OK assuming there is no significant difference in generated steam volume. I'm looking forward to giving it a test and finding out whether my theory is right or not! If all is well I can come up with a smaller safety valve cover more in keeping with the prototype. If it doesn't, its back to the drawing board :oops:
 
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Overseer

Western Thunderer
Steve, why are you trying to use 0.7mm nickel silver for the tank? The prototype sheet metal would have been somewhere from 1/8 to 1/4 inch (I think it is marked on the GAs but the books are not to hand) so even in large scale 0.25 or 0.3mm sheet would be plenty strong enough, especially as it is cosmetic. Much easier to work with.

I like the new chimney and safety valve. Now you have started getting the model looking much closer to scale the cab roof is looking a bit plain. Gutters and a few rivets would add lots to the appearance.......
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
I agree with Overseer, 0.7mm is battleship foundry plate work territory, especially in nickel silver.

0.25 mm, or 0.3 mm if you must, should be more than sufficient and even then I suspect you'll still get some bowing along it's length unless you use some seriously thick rolling bars. It's the bars flexing in the middle that'll be generating the bow, but I suspect you are already aware of that trait in rolling bars. If you want to add some strength in the middle of the tank then make two more former's so the internal space is split into three.
 
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Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Steve,

It might be time to find a source of tinplate for your tank, much easier to deal with for big jobs than nickel silver.

Although brass or even copper would be preferable to nickel silver in this instance I suspect.

Steph
 

adrian

Flying Squad
Although brass or even copper would be preferable to nickel silver in this instance I suspect.
Personally I would stick with nickel-silver, less prone to knocks than copper and takes paint better than brass. However I would use a soft grade of nickel silver. Unfortunately many model suppliers only supply half-hard nickel silver which as the name implies would be harder to work into the curve required.
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Thank you very much for all the advice chaps. Interesting to see the recommendations for 0.25 to 0.3mm sheet - whilst I acknowledge it would be much easier to work with, my gut tells me that it is far too thin for the garden environment. The reason for going for 0.7mm was that is the material thickness used on the saddle tanks for all my 16mm / 7/8ths stock by Roundhouse, Accucraft, TME etc - I figured they hit balance between forming, rigidity and hard wearing based on their years selling engines etc.

I have not tried tinplate at all, so if I can find a source for flat sheet I'd be interested to give that a go and see how it both forms and resists knocks etc. I did keep my eyes open for all options whilst at the 16mm Association Show at Peterborough yesterday, unfortunately it seems that builders are in a minority and there were very few stands selling raw material, I guess thats the way the market is heading, but it was a common complaint amongst my friends who were unable to source even basic things like copper tube, sheet material etc.

Anyway, today I have come to an arrangement with a sheet of 0.5mm thick brass, and after some annealing to help with the smaller radius, it has formed up into a satisfactory shape without a great deal of bad language.

AB27 New Saddle Tank.jpg

I need to make some pads to fit inside to allow enough thread for the fixing brackets and tank balance pipe to be bolted into place, the last job would then be making a new tank filler, that will be a pleasant few minutes on the lathe.

Steve
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
I like the new chimney and safety valve. Now you have started getting the model looking much closer to scale the cab roof is looking a bit plain. Gutters and a few rivets would add lots to the appearance.......

Thank you :)

The roof is on the target list, I'm just debating with myself how far to go. The lack of rivets and gutters are the big things as you say, but I also think the corner radius where the roof curves down is too tight, and the roof also comes down too far. You could also argue that the roof supports are too large, although body colour would probably mask that to some extent and also keep a reasonable degree of strength in the assembly which is a good thing. I have a horrible feeling I'm going to end up making the whole lot though :oops:
 

David Taylor

Western Thunderer
K&S supply little sheets of tinplate. When we had a hobby shop here I used to get that. It's much nicer to work with than brass.
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Picking a project to ease myself back in with a rising mojo wasn't difficult - there are more than enough unfinished ones hiding in the loft! I decided the GBL Parcel Van from Northern Fine Scale was what need dragging over the finishing line - apart from the odd G1 demo show its been in its box since March 2015...

Getting it out of the box showed that it has survived pretty well - the centre roof panel has lifted on the edge in a couple of places but I think any rectification work will probably make more of a mess. It still runs well, well OK, it pushes round the test track OK :)

GBL1 Exit from the loft.jpg

I stripped it down to its subassemblies and then spent a couple of hours masking up all the black bits ready for a body coat of Crimson. The solebars were a bit of a challenge with the steps and angle iron braces - I used blue tack between the steps and door bottoms and then taped up to that.

GBL2 Masked up.jpg

I used Railmatch BR Crimson, thinned 50/50 with Howes thinners and drifted on a couple of thin coats. Its not a particularly nice paint, gloopy and when thinned enough for airbrushing seems to loose its ability to cover very well. However, its look pretty good colour wise in the flesh, I can't say the same for my photos!

GBL3 Crimson on.jpg

After a couple of hours of drying all the masking was carefully removed, then the tape residue and paint from the window recesses was cleaned out. A final trim of all the windows saw them sitting neatly in the recesses ready for gluing.

GBL4 Glass cut to size.jpg

Today I spent a couple of hours this morning trying to get an acceptable representation of the window bars on the back of the glazing. Despite changing the size of the grid three times and numerous methods to cut, carve or paint lines onto the back, I gave up when I realised I was going to struggle to get a consistently good finish on each window. To that end they have been glued in as plain glass using canopy glue and I am now using the same to attach the window frames.

GBL5 Window Frames.jpg

Hoping to start the second side after tea, it would be nice to get these done and finished tonight so the piles of loose parts in the box gets ever smaller :)
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Its nice to finally see it in the sun with the shadows created by all the extra details added, for the first time in this build I think I'm happy with it :)

GBL7 Out in the sun.jpg

Still plenty to go at though, not least of all numbering, detail painting, weathering and making cosmetic bogie side frames.
 
Alan Keef K40

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
I ordered a chassis from Essel Engineering in Dec 2021 to give me a basis for my K40 project - I'm pleased to say it arrived yesterday and its a lovely piece of work. For reference its their 010C chassis with a 90mm wheelbase and 7/8ths scale wheel treads.
AK2 Essel Engineering 010C Chassis.jpeg

Whilst I've been waiting I've been grabbing screenshots of the photos I can find on the web - my preferred prototype was this one running at Sinclair Horticultural Ltd

AK1 Inspiration.png

With the chassis in hand I've been able to measure up and compare to the drawing that James Hilton sent me.

AK3 Drawings.jpeg

The length is almost perfect at 190mm (scale should be 192mm), width over buffer beams is a little narrow (2mm per side), the wheelbase is a bit longer and centred in the chassis whereas the K40 has it biased towards the front. Footplate height above the rail is bob on at 40mm - overallI I can't grumble with how close it is. I did contemplate stripping it down and drilling new holes to bring the rear axle forward, but I can't hit the prototype position with the motor mount / spacers in their current position - so its staying as it is and I'm living with the compromises.

The first job was creating a footplate from 1.5mm styrene sheet, using a shooting board to trim to size.
AK4 Footplate and shooting board.jpeg

A set of cosmetic sideframes were fashioned from 2mm styrene following the drawing, just moving the cut outs to suit my axle locations.
AK5 Cosmetic Sideframes.jpeg

The sideframes have strips of 2mm styrene added to bring the frames clear of the chassis assembly screws, it also gives me some room to create the axlebox / springing arrangement on the real thing. The whole unit is removable - I plan to have L shaped brackets running from the underside of the footplate to sit up behind the buffer beams where the buffer mount holes are, that should give a nice fixing but keep the ability to strip down.

AK6 Sideframe spacers.jpeg

At this point my lack of attention reared its head - the loco I have been referencing is actually much narrower than the drawings I have - by my guesstimate its a good 250mm narrower across the buffer beam and has the cab and bonnet sides flush with the footplate. Drawing the body up to the same specs on my chassis looked wrong, the proportions are all over the place - so I've come up with a compromise which is more in line with the drawings but with a full cab.

It actually looks very similar to James' which I was trying to avoid, ah well, its now K40 inspired I think ;) I spent a bit of time trying out different sizes and proportions on paper before hitting on something that felt about right. A mock up was built from cardboard to confirm - I think I'm in the right ballpark although the windows are the parts I am less convinced about, a bit more web trawling required.

AK7 Cardboard Body.jpeg

I do still have plenty of space for electronics which is good, I'm going to try and keep them in the middle of the bonnet and away from the grills as much as possible - we'll see how that all works out!
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
One of the reasons I chose this design was its basic simplicity, essentially two styrene boxes with angled upper panels. First up was the bonnet, the basic frame being made from 2mm styrene whilst the front panel has a 0.5mm skin over the front of the carcass to leave me a recess behind to glue the grill into. The holes in the sides are also for grills, I have yet to make the doors that mount to the sides, the rearmost of which will have holes in a similar fashion to the front panel - I just need to fill and sand any imperfections in the main body first.

AK8 Styrene bonnet.jpeg

The cab is a work in progress - I started by trimming the four basic pieces to width and them taping them together, placing a ruler against the bottom edge to keep them all level. The top and bottom guide lines for the windows were then marked out before the pieces were separated.

AK9 Taping cab parts together.jpeg

The rest of the window openings were marked out keeping a common size from the edge, then a 6mm radius curve marked on each corner.

AK10 Marking out windows.jpeg

As the parts are made from 2mm styrene I find cutting out windows with a knife to be a pain, and there is always the real chance of an unintended slip which will ruin the panel. To that end, I mark the centre of each opening and drill it out with one of those stepped cutter drills. I can then use a coping saw to cut close to the line to remove the bulk of the material, then file to finish. Not the quickest process, but one that has reduced my chances of a mishap to the minimum.

AK11 Cutting out WIndows.jpeg
One filed, 3 to go!
 

Neil

Western Thunderer
That's very crisp work. I'm with you with not using a knife on thicker plasticard but I rough cut openings with a diamond cutting disk in the pendant drill because I'm basically a lazy sort of chap/bodger.
 
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