davey4270
Western Thunderer
This article is one of several I had published in B.R.M. many years ago before it became a comic. Although this was published as a single article I will have to edit it somewhat and post it in 3 parts as I'm getting alerts that it is too big for one post.
PS 24 kit as a Diagram V33.
A trawl through “Great Western Railway Journals” produced photographs of actual prototypes in BR liveries with some interesting features, which I will attempt to model. W114712 (V33) (picture ref: GWRJ Vol. 14, p.584) is shown as a fairly normal wagon but without rain strips, although some interesting roof features are apparent. A second unfitted van can be partially seen in the photograph and is fitted with “three-hole disc wheels”.
Historical notes on these models as written in Parkside instructions are as follows:
"V33 – 950 wagons of this type were built by the GWR between 1929 and 1933. Many survived until the general slaughter of nine-foot wheelbase rolling stock in the early 1960’s. It was designed to the 1923 railway clearinghouse specification and used standard parts in its running gear enabling it to be repaired on “foreign” companies’ lines. These wagons were regarded as “common user” throughout their lives and thus could be used by all other railway companies and hence might be seen the length and breadth of Britain. The instructions go on to give number series and references."
CONSTRUCTION of a V33.
Although the three wagons were built in parallel, I will describe their construction individually.
It’s quite easy really! Follow Mr. Parkside’s assembly instructions.
Firstly, attach the four side and end components around the floor, paying some attention to producing good corner joints. You may find it necessary to clear plastic flash from the underneath of the bonnet vents at this point. Be careful not to damage any of the rivet detail on the bodywork. If damage does occur, you can replace the rivets with small squares of 10 thou plastikard. A blob of plastic solvent and a coat of paint will cover a multitude of sins!
Photograph 1 shows the basic components without wheels, buffers and couplings, but with the body assembled (V23).
Photograph 2 shows how a small piece of plastic was removed from the sides, prior to assembly of the corners, to enable them to butt up more accurately (V33 only).
In the picture, the side on the left shows the piece I have removed and the side on the right shows the unprepared edge. If the corners are not shaped to a knife-edge, the offending lip will prevent them from fitting together neatly.
The corner joints may require some attention by filling any gaps with filler or, as I prefer, with finest Slater’s Microrod. The product is available in various sizes; the one I use is about the same diameter as a human hair. I find this preferable, as the final joint will be of the same texture as the model, whereas a filament of body filler will leave a different texture under a coat of paint, resulting in a visible blemish showing through the paint.
You can check the finish to the joint by painting the corner angle irons with the body paint colour. This will show any blemishes, which may need further attention. Then, when there is no visible blemish, the painted corners will blend in with the body colour.
I added two pieces of waste plastic “sprue” cut to fit between the sides at the top of the model either side of the doors. This is trimmed to hold the sides parallel and will resist any pressure, which may cause the sides to bow in on the completed model. This can easily be caused by pressure when handling the model and will be very difficult to correct when the kit is completed.
The body was then scrubbed with “jiff” and warm water using an old toothbrush. This removes any traces of grease and the shine from the plastic giving a good surface for the paint to adhere. I covered the underside of the floor with masking tape before aerosol spraying the model. The prevention of a coat of paint on the underside of the floor will make it easier to continue with the construction of the underframe and detail, as the paint will prevent the solvent from working on the plastic.
Photograph 3 shows the model at this stage.
Note. B.R. livery was body light grey with all under framing etc, black.
G.W.R. livery was all dark grey with buffer heads, couplings and wheels black. The roof was painted with white lead, which waterproofed. Don’t forget the roof ends and sides were body colour. The model will now have to be left for the paint to harden.
After allowing a few days for the paint to harden, insert the solebars. These need to be “sprung in” as suggested in the instructions. When you are happy that the model sits squarely on its four “W” irons on a flat surface, flood the solebar/floor joints with liquid solvent and allow to dry and harden. Next, insert the main underframe moulding, gently filing the ends to obtain a good tight fit. This fits with the “L” shaped flange towards the track and not as I did, managing to fit it upside down!
Photograph 4 shows how I fitted mine upside down and had to add some strips of plastikard to represent the missing flanges.
The “V” hangers can now be attached to the inside of the sole bars. Try to position these as centrally and as vertical as possible. A piece of rod temporally inserted in the holes will help to get this square. Note that the two “V” hangers differ, in that one has a partially filled in lower “V”, which has a representation of the reversing cam moulded on it. At this stage it does not matter which way around they are fitted (other than the cam to the outside) but it will determine as to which side the single brake push rod component will be fitted!
I added some scraps of plastikard to some of the solebar ends to fill some gaps. These will be trimmed back later, I took advantage of easy access to the wheel recesses to paint some of the areas that will be inaccessible later, leaving areas unpainted where parts will be attached. I.e., brake gear.
The side stanchions on the V33 were joggled under the floor and attached to the outside of the solebars. A representation of this is moulded on the floor but I chose to try to improve it by adding a square of plastikard (with a slot to clear the moulded rib) to the solebar to represent the bracket (a partial moulding is represented on the solebar) and a triangular piece to represent the tapering foot of the “T” section of the bracket. The bottom door catch had a similar arrangement, which the door securing pegs slotted into and is also represented.
The picture (Photograph 4) also shows that I added the side door retaining clips, which were added before painting the model.
Some of these subsequently broke off during further construction and in future I will add these later, touching in the paintwork. On second thoughts, on my next model I will dry fit them and remove after spraying. This will keep the location holes clear of paint and their removal will protect them from damage while all the detailing is being carried out. These tend to break off when the model is lying on its side!
Tip: When the model is on its side, rest the upper edge on a pencil. The pencil will rest below the side of the roof and lift the side of the wagon just clear of the work surface thus protecting the side door retaining clips.
Next, clean up the four axle bearing mounts. I have found that using these as supplied gives too much side play to the axle. I reduce this by filling the bearing flange recess with a piece of scrap Plastikard. This is allowed to dry and harden. Sand back to be flush with the face of the bearing mount and re drill the bearing hole with a 2.5mm drill.
Photograph 5 illustrates this but the components are from an open wagon. They look different but do exactly the same job!
Fit the brass axle bearings to the axle box rears and check that the axle box rears slide vertically in the “W” irons. Carefully fit the wheelset, with the bearings attached by gently springing out the “W” irons on the model, the axle should lie squarely across the body. If slightly out of square and the axle box is too tight to move, gently remove material from the inside of the “W” iron slot to correct the lie of the axle and free the vertical movement. If the axle is square and you need to loosen the axle box, you will need to remove equal material from both inside faces of the “W” iron. The wheels will benefit from a treatment with Carr’s chemical blacking.
When you are happy with the fit of the axles/axle box bearings, clean up the outside axle boxes and carefully glue to the axle box rears. Some care is needed here to securely attach the axle box but do not overdo it with the solvent, which would prevent the axle box from sliding in its guides. If this happens, pull it apart quickly and leave several hours for the plastic faces to fully harden. They can then be carefully cleaned up for a second attempt. The instructions suggest that the axleboxes are moulded in ABS type plastic and will need superglue. I have found that “Plastiweld” will do the job. Place small blobs of the solvent on the inside axle box face next to the brass bearing and press the outer axle box against it. Small amounts of solvent can then be carefully applied to the top and bottom of the boxes. This helps to keep the solvent away from the sliding surfaces on the sides.
I attempted to replicate the photograph of W114712’s roof. Firstly, I removed the raised moulding at the ends, covered the entire top of the roof with a single ply of three-ply table napkin. (Available for under a £1 per 100 from your local supermarket). I then soaked this with liquid solvent and allowed to dry. This gives a felt/tarpaulin like texture to the roof. I then reinstated the end protection strips from some 10 thou. Plastikard.
The roof on the prototype appears to have been repaired with several strips of material laid transversely. The joins were covered with further strips, to prevent water ingress, which gave the appearance of hoops!
I estimated the position of the “hoops”, which do not align with the internal roof supports, then laid thin strips (2 mm, which looked about right) of the 3-ply tissue this time, the extra thickness used to represent the overlap of the tarpaulin. I soaked this with more liquid solvent, which held it in position until a coat of paint on the roof sealed it all in place.
Photograph 6 shows the completed roof, although it is not as noticeable in the picture as on the finished model. This prototype repair had no rain strips fitted and I selected this wagon to model, as I wanted something to “stand out in the crowd” so to speak!
You can now attach the roof after cleaning all the tissue paper from the relevant attachment surfaces. Some elastic bands will help to hold it in place while you align equal overhang at either side/end before attaching with solvent. If the roof has lost some of its curved profile, gently correct the curve with finger pressure or if too bad, soften first in “hot” water, correct the curve and cool in cold water for a minute to allow the plastic to harden. A slight over curve is better than an under curve. The raised centre on the ends will be firmly held in place by the solvent but the roof will tend to lift at the sides if under curved!
Buffers.
The G.W.R. fitted to these diagram vehicles a buffer with a narrow, straight body and two strengthening webs. These were at 3 & 9 ’O clock and just short of half-length. I was unable to obtain replacement castings, although they must be available, so decided to modify the supplied components. I completely carved away the upper and lower mouldings and reduced the taper on the side mouldings to a point just under half-length. With the addition of the round end moulding, which I attached with superglue, this now gives a reasonable approximation of the originals. They should be narrower, but I didn’t fancy tackling that one!
Paint the buffer housings and as much of the underframe as possible.
The inside of the buffer beam needs a few scraps of Plastikard to level and fill the recess around the coupling hook slots and then the buffers and couplings can be fitted. Adjust each buffer retaining nut to give an overall buffer length of 18” (10.5mm) and secure with only a blob of paint, as you may need to remove them in the future! Super glue would prove very difficult to adjust should this become necessary.
Photograph 7 shows the completed buffers and couplings from underneath.
Add weight to your model by filling the central space in the underframe with your preferred ballast material and touch in all paintwork. Apply transfers to complete. Photograph 8 shows my completed model.
PS 24 kit as a Diagram V33.
A trawl through “Great Western Railway Journals” produced photographs of actual prototypes in BR liveries with some interesting features, which I will attempt to model. W114712 (V33) (picture ref: GWRJ Vol. 14, p.584) is shown as a fairly normal wagon but without rain strips, although some interesting roof features are apparent. A second unfitted van can be partially seen in the photograph and is fitted with “three-hole disc wheels”.
Historical notes on these models as written in Parkside instructions are as follows:
"V33 – 950 wagons of this type were built by the GWR between 1929 and 1933. Many survived until the general slaughter of nine-foot wheelbase rolling stock in the early 1960’s. It was designed to the 1923 railway clearinghouse specification and used standard parts in its running gear enabling it to be repaired on “foreign” companies’ lines. These wagons were regarded as “common user” throughout their lives and thus could be used by all other railway companies and hence might be seen the length and breadth of Britain. The instructions go on to give number series and references."
CONSTRUCTION of a V33.
Although the three wagons were built in parallel, I will describe their construction individually.
It’s quite easy really! Follow Mr. Parkside’s assembly instructions.
Firstly, attach the four side and end components around the floor, paying some attention to producing good corner joints. You may find it necessary to clear plastic flash from the underneath of the bonnet vents at this point. Be careful not to damage any of the rivet detail on the bodywork. If damage does occur, you can replace the rivets with small squares of 10 thou plastikard. A blob of plastic solvent and a coat of paint will cover a multitude of sins!
Photograph 1 shows the basic components without wheels, buffers and couplings, but with the body assembled (V23).
Photograph 2 shows how a small piece of plastic was removed from the sides, prior to assembly of the corners, to enable them to butt up more accurately (V33 only).
In the picture, the side on the left shows the piece I have removed and the side on the right shows the unprepared edge. If the corners are not shaped to a knife-edge, the offending lip will prevent them from fitting together neatly.
The corner joints may require some attention by filling any gaps with filler or, as I prefer, with finest Slater’s Microrod. The product is available in various sizes; the one I use is about the same diameter as a human hair. I find this preferable, as the final joint will be of the same texture as the model, whereas a filament of body filler will leave a different texture under a coat of paint, resulting in a visible blemish showing through the paint.
You can check the finish to the joint by painting the corner angle irons with the body paint colour. This will show any blemishes, which may need further attention. Then, when there is no visible blemish, the painted corners will blend in with the body colour.
I added two pieces of waste plastic “sprue” cut to fit between the sides at the top of the model either side of the doors. This is trimmed to hold the sides parallel and will resist any pressure, which may cause the sides to bow in on the completed model. This can easily be caused by pressure when handling the model and will be very difficult to correct when the kit is completed.
The body was then scrubbed with “jiff” and warm water using an old toothbrush. This removes any traces of grease and the shine from the plastic giving a good surface for the paint to adhere. I covered the underside of the floor with masking tape before aerosol spraying the model. The prevention of a coat of paint on the underside of the floor will make it easier to continue with the construction of the underframe and detail, as the paint will prevent the solvent from working on the plastic.
Photograph 3 shows the model at this stage.
Note. B.R. livery was body light grey with all under framing etc, black.
G.W.R. livery was all dark grey with buffer heads, couplings and wheels black. The roof was painted with white lead, which waterproofed. Don’t forget the roof ends and sides were body colour. The model will now have to be left for the paint to harden.
After allowing a few days for the paint to harden, insert the solebars. These need to be “sprung in” as suggested in the instructions. When you are happy that the model sits squarely on its four “W” irons on a flat surface, flood the solebar/floor joints with liquid solvent and allow to dry and harden. Next, insert the main underframe moulding, gently filing the ends to obtain a good tight fit. This fits with the “L” shaped flange towards the track and not as I did, managing to fit it upside down!
Photograph 4 shows how I fitted mine upside down and had to add some strips of plastikard to represent the missing flanges.
The “V” hangers can now be attached to the inside of the sole bars. Try to position these as centrally and as vertical as possible. A piece of rod temporally inserted in the holes will help to get this square. Note that the two “V” hangers differ, in that one has a partially filled in lower “V”, which has a representation of the reversing cam moulded on it. At this stage it does not matter which way around they are fitted (other than the cam to the outside) but it will determine as to which side the single brake push rod component will be fitted!
I added some scraps of plastikard to some of the solebar ends to fill some gaps. These will be trimmed back later, I took advantage of easy access to the wheel recesses to paint some of the areas that will be inaccessible later, leaving areas unpainted where parts will be attached. I.e., brake gear.
The side stanchions on the V33 were joggled under the floor and attached to the outside of the solebars. A representation of this is moulded on the floor but I chose to try to improve it by adding a square of plastikard (with a slot to clear the moulded rib) to the solebar to represent the bracket (a partial moulding is represented on the solebar) and a triangular piece to represent the tapering foot of the “T” section of the bracket. The bottom door catch had a similar arrangement, which the door securing pegs slotted into and is also represented.
The picture (Photograph 4) also shows that I added the side door retaining clips, which were added before painting the model.
Some of these subsequently broke off during further construction and in future I will add these later, touching in the paintwork. On second thoughts, on my next model I will dry fit them and remove after spraying. This will keep the location holes clear of paint and their removal will protect them from damage while all the detailing is being carried out. These tend to break off when the model is lying on its side!
Tip: When the model is on its side, rest the upper edge on a pencil. The pencil will rest below the side of the roof and lift the side of the wagon just clear of the work surface thus protecting the side door retaining clips.
Next, clean up the four axle bearing mounts. I have found that using these as supplied gives too much side play to the axle. I reduce this by filling the bearing flange recess with a piece of scrap Plastikard. This is allowed to dry and harden. Sand back to be flush with the face of the bearing mount and re drill the bearing hole with a 2.5mm drill.
Photograph 5 illustrates this but the components are from an open wagon. They look different but do exactly the same job!
Fit the brass axle bearings to the axle box rears and check that the axle box rears slide vertically in the “W” irons. Carefully fit the wheelset, with the bearings attached by gently springing out the “W” irons on the model, the axle should lie squarely across the body. If slightly out of square and the axle box is too tight to move, gently remove material from the inside of the “W” iron slot to correct the lie of the axle and free the vertical movement. If the axle is square and you need to loosen the axle box, you will need to remove equal material from both inside faces of the “W” iron. The wheels will benefit from a treatment with Carr’s chemical blacking.
When you are happy with the fit of the axles/axle box bearings, clean up the outside axle boxes and carefully glue to the axle box rears. Some care is needed here to securely attach the axle box but do not overdo it with the solvent, which would prevent the axle box from sliding in its guides. If this happens, pull it apart quickly and leave several hours for the plastic faces to fully harden. They can then be carefully cleaned up for a second attempt. The instructions suggest that the axleboxes are moulded in ABS type plastic and will need superglue. I have found that “Plastiweld” will do the job. Place small blobs of the solvent on the inside axle box face next to the brass bearing and press the outer axle box against it. Small amounts of solvent can then be carefully applied to the top and bottom of the boxes. This helps to keep the solvent away from the sliding surfaces on the sides.
I attempted to replicate the photograph of W114712’s roof. Firstly, I removed the raised moulding at the ends, covered the entire top of the roof with a single ply of three-ply table napkin. (Available for under a £1 per 100 from your local supermarket). I then soaked this with liquid solvent and allowed to dry. This gives a felt/tarpaulin like texture to the roof. I then reinstated the end protection strips from some 10 thou. Plastikard.
The roof on the prototype appears to have been repaired with several strips of material laid transversely. The joins were covered with further strips, to prevent water ingress, which gave the appearance of hoops!
I estimated the position of the “hoops”, which do not align with the internal roof supports, then laid thin strips (2 mm, which looked about right) of the 3-ply tissue this time, the extra thickness used to represent the overlap of the tarpaulin. I soaked this with more liquid solvent, which held it in position until a coat of paint on the roof sealed it all in place.
Photograph 6 shows the completed roof, although it is not as noticeable in the picture as on the finished model. This prototype repair had no rain strips fitted and I selected this wagon to model, as I wanted something to “stand out in the crowd” so to speak!
You can now attach the roof after cleaning all the tissue paper from the relevant attachment surfaces. Some elastic bands will help to hold it in place while you align equal overhang at either side/end before attaching with solvent. If the roof has lost some of its curved profile, gently correct the curve with finger pressure or if too bad, soften first in “hot” water, correct the curve and cool in cold water for a minute to allow the plastic to harden. A slight over curve is better than an under curve. The raised centre on the ends will be firmly held in place by the solvent but the roof will tend to lift at the sides if under curved!
Buffers.
The G.W.R. fitted to these diagram vehicles a buffer with a narrow, straight body and two strengthening webs. These were at 3 & 9 ’O clock and just short of half-length. I was unable to obtain replacement castings, although they must be available, so decided to modify the supplied components. I completely carved away the upper and lower mouldings and reduced the taper on the side mouldings to a point just under half-length. With the addition of the round end moulding, which I attached with superglue, this now gives a reasonable approximation of the originals. They should be narrower, but I didn’t fancy tackling that one!
Paint the buffer housings and as much of the underframe as possible.
The inside of the buffer beam needs a few scraps of Plastikard to level and fill the recess around the coupling hook slots and then the buffers and couplings can be fitted. Adjust each buffer retaining nut to give an overall buffer length of 18” (10.5mm) and secure with only a blob of paint, as you may need to remove them in the future! Super glue would prove very difficult to adjust should this become necessary.
Photograph 7 shows the completed buffers and couplings from underneath.
Add weight to your model by filling the central space in the underframe with your preferred ballast material and touch in all paintwork. Apply transfers to complete. Photograph 8 shows my completed model.
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