Hartley Hills, LNWR c1900 - buffer stops, how do you build yours?

Simon

Flying Squad
I have been sieving Basalt (I think) that a friend who works in a quarry got for me, in between the stuff I want I get a wonderfully fine earth coloured stone dust that might be relevant here, I'll happily post you a sample for evaluation if you like.

If you want to give it a go then PM me details of where to send it to and I'll get some sent off to you.

Simon
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I use grey emulsion paint to colour it, mixed in a large container until the sand is almost dry, and all the paint has covered the sand. I saw Norman Solomon use this technique in one of the 'Right Track' videos.
I think this DVD is in the PW Hut... I shall dig out the disk and look at Norman's method.

thank you, Graham
 

Mike Sheardown

Western Thunderer
Hi Graham,

Certainly worth a look - I admire Norman Solomon's work greatly.

Here's a mock-up to show you the general style of it - I'm also planning to use under-floor foam for quiet running.

IMG_2590_zps08c6104f.jpg

Cheers

Mike
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Good picture :thumbs: .

Please tell us what you have used for the sleepers... and for the formation... and the infill...

I expect that someone more knowledgeable than I is likely to ask about the coaches ;) .

regards, Graham
 

Mike Sheardown

Western Thunderer
Good picture :thumbs: .

Please tell us what you have used for the sleepers... and for the formation... and the infill...

regards, Graham

Hi Graham,

When I first built my oval test track some years ago (the remains of which you can see in the photo), I laid all the track on strips of 3mm thick foam in order to try and eliminate the 'base-board' rumble that often occurs when track is laid direct onto the boards. This was quite successful, and that is the dark grey stuff you can see under the sleepers in the pic. The track is just standard Peco Flexitrack.

I didn't want to use the traditional approach of applying ballast to the whole depth of the sleepers and secured with dilute PVA, as I felt that this might compromise the sound deadening aspect of the foam, so I experimented with using further strips of the 3mm foam between the sleepers, with a fine layer of coloured grey sand applied to the surface to represent the ballast, and stuck with latex glue.

As I said, the pic above is just a mock-up, and it is my intention to cover the whole base-board with a layer of foam in the future prior to laying the track. A ballast shoulder (or just an additional flat area alongside the sleepers), will be created using further foam, with any join hidden using silicone as a filler, prior to adding the sand ballast covering.

The whole lot can then be weathered using a combination of acrylic paint and or washes of acrylic.

Scenery and or buildings can simply be added on top of the first layer of foam alongside the track bed as required.

Hope that's helpful

Cheers

Mike
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
We've had quite a bit of trouble with foam under MDF on Crosscombe...
This surprises me because I think that a wood / foam / wood sandwich is a good approach to getting a stable top with sound deadening - so what has gone wrong with this approach?
 

Mike Sheardown

Western Thunderer
Dont do it !!!!!!

We've had quite a bit of trouble with foam under MDF on Crosscombe... Probably be okay in Finescale, but personally I'd say it wasn't advisable in S7..

JB.


Hi JB,

What kind of problems have you had, and how did they manifest themselves?
 

Mike Sheardown

Western Thunderer
Just for clarity, I attach the foam to the top of the base boards, with the track then placed on top of the foam - again, as per Norman Solomon's method in the 'Right Track' DVD. The base boards are then attached direct to wooden framing, so there is no foam under the base boards themselves.

However, the sandwich approach as mentioned by Graham above, does sound like a good idea in terms of it's potential for additional sound deadening.

Mike
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
A ballast shoulder (or just an additional flat area alongside the sleepers), will be created using further foam, with any join hidden using silicone as a filler, prior to adding the sand ballast covering.
Why do you use silicone filler between the edges of the foam sheet?

I stick the foam to the baseboard - and sleepers / timbers to the foam - with carpet latex glue. A sharp knife enables a close joint to be made between foam parts and the latex makes a good joint (that does not require filling).

regards, Graham
 

Mike Sheardown

Western Thunderer
Why do you use silicone filler between the edges of the foam sheet?

I stick the foam to the baseboard - and sleepers / timbers to the foam - with carpet latex glue. A sharp knife enables a close joint to be made between foam parts and the latex makes a good joint (that does not require filling).

regards, Graham


Hi Graham,

I just assumed that with all those joints between the sleeper fill foam, and the foam strip that will foam the ballast shoulder, I would need some kind of filler as the joints wouldn't be good enough. What you say is interesting, and if I can get away without the need to fill, it will save a lot of time and hassle - I'll have a go :)

Thanks

Mike
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
An attribute of the underlay which was sold by Exactoscale (now C&L) is that the material is stable in regard to dimensions provided that the material is not subject to shove / tug stresses. The fact that the foam "stays put" means that if a joint is cut so that the edges are under slight compression then when glued the joint appears as a line on the surface - no filling is required. On the other hand, no amount of persuasion hides a join where the sheet edges do not meet along the length of the join.

Whilst the material is generally of constant thickness the edge can sometimes be thinner and best avoided when laying PW formation.

regards, Graham
 

Mike Sheardown

Western Thunderer
I'll ask about the coaches photos please


Hi John,

Here’s some pics of the coach.


It's an LNW corridor 1st/3rd composite of arc roof stock, and was built by John Petcher for Ken Payne, and painted by Alan Brackenborough. The vac and steam heat bags attach to their corresponding numbers on the next coach when coupled, and the interior seating is all upholstered with sepia prints above.

IMG_2602_zps10700ac7.jpg

IMG_2601_zpsf6539c34.jpg




IMG_2606_zps864c8d80.jpg

It's a very fine model, and I feel very privileged to have it in my collection.

Best wishes

Mike
 
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