7mm MOK BR Standard 4MT Tank

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I have finally received the correct crank bushes and so can carry on.
Ken (@farnetti), you have made mention of concerns with crank pin bushes in the past and I have not understood what is giving you problems. Sorry to ask about what parts you are using, we are having problems with the S7 wheels and crank pin nuts / return cranks for our MOK BR 4MT and your experiences may assist me to find a solution which works for us.

What is the source of the coupled wheels for your model? (for example:- S7 wheels from S7 Group Stores... re-profiled FS wheels from Slaters);

What is the source of the crank pins? (for example:- MOK... Slaters... Derek Mundy (from MSE ?)... S7 Group Stores);

What is the source of the crank pin nuts? (BA nuts... CPL castings... MOK... comes with Slaters / Mundy crank pins).

Of course, if anyone else has used the S7 wheels from the S7 Group Stores for their MOK BR 4MT model then your contribution to these questions shall be received gratefully.

thank you and regards, Graham
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Peter, in this post I notice there are two stubs to the RHS of the water level gauges on your build which I have never seen on photos of the real thing, do you know what they are there and should they be there?

I have finally received the correct crank bushes and so can carry on.

In the mean time not been idle, finished a MMP Dogfish, built a MMP catfish and a Kemilway Gresley full brake, also a bit of trackwork for my local club.

All the best

Hi Ken,
Good to hear that you have the parts to continue your build.

As to the stubs on the water gauges, the answer is no they should not be there. At least looking at the ones on 80002. That's how they come in the kit and until now I hadn't realised they were wrong. In fact I think the pipe that the stubs are on should not be there either but I'll investigate that further and consider if I can remove them.

You may still beat me to the finish as mine is still not painted. In recent times I have got out of the habit of painting my locos before starting the next. Currently the A3, A4, 4MT are built but not painted and I'm well advanced building the David Andrews Stanier 2 6 4, with a Gladiator Stanier Mogul to follow.

Cheers,
Peter
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Thanks Peter, I will be removing them tomorrow and continuing with the cab interior while I try to remember, again, how the chassis all works.

I keep putting off painting stuff, not something I am confident about. I cannot afford to get it done professionally and will have to get around to it one day.

Anyway thanks again a will probably be back when I run into other fogginess.

All the best,

Ken
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Ken (@farnetti), you have made mention of concerns with crank pin bushes in the past and I have not understood what is giving you problems. Sorry to ask about what parts you are using, we are having problems with the S7 wheels and crank pin nuts / return cranks for our MOK BR 4MT and your experiences may assist me to find a solution which works for us.

What is the source of the coupled wheels for your model? (for example:- S7 wheels from S7 Group Stores... re-profiled FS wheels from Slaters);

What is the source of the crank pins? (for example:- MOK... Slaters... Derek Mundy (from MSE ?)... S7 Group Stores);

What is the source of the crank pin nuts? (BA nuts... CPL castings... MOK... comes with Slaters / Mundy crank pins).

Of course, if anyone else has used the S7 wheels from the S7 Group Stores for their MOK BR 4MT model then your contribution to these questions shall be received gratefully.

thank you and regards, Graham

Hi Graham,

I bought wheels from S7 stores and crank pins from MOK. My problems have been purely that MOK originally supplied the wrong crank pins in the first instance. I tried to modify these but my skills were not up to the job hence the wait. It was my decision not to use Slaters crank pins.

There have been absolutely no problems with the S7 wheels supplied by the Society stores.

I would like to add that MOK have been very apologetic for the unusually prolonged delay for the replacements, which were outside of their control.

Hope this answers your concerns.

All the best, Ken
 

chigley

Western Thunderer
I'm also coming to the end of my build and I'm doing the 'where does this leftover bit go' exercise. The whole exercise has been a joy despite the odd glitch in the instructions. There are some replacement pages on the web site. I've taken my time and so far it has been two years in the works. The firebox pipework is done on the left hand side and I am trying to find the casting for the valve on the left side which appears in the photographs without any identification.
I bought the Slaters wheels but then switched to the Korean wheels in S7 as a treat. They are worth it. I am using a SDMP 40:1 two stage gearbox and a Canon motor. The replacement 5mm bearings were easy to source off the net. Dave has some replacement parts to correct some kitting and design mistakes. The trickiest job is folding the footplate, it is very long and very flimsy.
View attachment 98683
I am trying to resist the temptation to do a second. The one above is 002 to work through Aberbeeg on the iron ore and I am tempted to do 250 as it was shedded with 002. The iron ore trains were made up of one on the front and one on the back!
Simon
hello simon, nice build, what size tender wheels are used, according to the data sheet they were 3ft 3 1/2 "
 

chigley

Western Thunderer
No problem Steph.
It was me that started the diversion. I'll post some pics of other sets in the gallery.

I paid 10 quid for the beam compass post free on eBay. The seller suggested it would be useful to cut up the alumium beams for modelling purposes! Philistine :mad:
Cheers,
Peter
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Paul (@P A D), please excuse this post to your topic, my question is about the kit and DCC so comments from any builder are of value.

What have people used for a decoder in this model? What have people used for a speaker? Where are the decoder and speaker fitted in the loco?

thank you, Graham
 

Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen

Western Thunderer
Graham,
My loco is finally coming to its final stages of construction, painting underway at the moment. I've purchased a Zimo MX645R chip from You Choose together with one of their dual sugar cube speakers. The speaker will fit between the frames under the smoke box. The chip should fit between the frames over the gearbox, I've used an ABC motor/gearbox unit. If not it can be placed in the boiler barrel.

all the best
Tim
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Tim, (@Mudhen),

Where does a "stay-alive" fit into the loco? Where are you intending to run the cables between speaker(s) and decoder?

thank you, Graham
 
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Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen

Western Thunderer
Graham,
The stay alive may have to go in the boiler barrel although it I will try to fit under the cab floor. Because on the contortions needed to fit the floor and 'back head' unit into the cab I've not tried this yet. The wires between the speaker and chip will run through the frames, they're so fine that they can hardly be seen.

all the best
Tim
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
Paul (@P A D),

I am having difficulty in understanding how to achieve the direction given in the instructions regarding fixing the pony pivot bearing into the pony A-frame. The instructions say to leave soldering the bearing into the A-frame until the loco frame with coupled wheels can be placed on a flat surface thereby obtaining the correct placement of the pony with respect to the frame - given that the A-frame is not horizontal I think that the instruction is to ensure that the bearing is aligned with the vertical pivot shaft under the frame.

I have re-read the relevant part of your topic, the words and pictures suggest that you did not follow Dave Sharp's instructions - how have you ensured alignment of the pony pivot bearing with the pivot shaft in the frame?

Ken (@farnetti), Tim (@Mudhen), and any other builders of this kit, be that FS or S7, how did you proceed in regard to Dave Sharp's instructions about this bearing?

thank you, Graham
 
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Tim Humphreys ex Mudhen

Western Thunderer
Graham,

I've soldered the bearing into the frame at an angle much as suggested by Dave Sharpe. I estimated by eye as best I could with the completed chassis sitting on the rails and holding the pony truck in its correct position. Once I was comfortable with my guess it was soldered in place, a couple of small adjustments were needed but in the end it was easier done than said.

all the best
Tim
 

farnetti

Western Thunderer
Graham,

I have done the same as Tim.

Still not finished mine, want some chassis running trials on our MMRG S7 roundy roundy track, not open for nearly a year.

The electrics are similar to Tims, same chip in the same place but I have cut out the bottom of the smoke box after fitting to footplate for the speaker.

best wishes,

Ken
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Morning Graham,
It's a while since I did ay work on the 4MT and off the top of my head I don't recall how I did the pony truck, but from what you say, I did not follow Dave's instructions. I can't get to the model due to covid, but I'll have a look back it the images and see if it jogs the memory.
Cheers,
Peter
 

P A D

Western Thunderer
Hi Graham,
I've had a look at the relevant post but unfortunately, I do not recall how I added the pivot. I beleive I just soldered it in place, checked it under the frame and found it was OK. I may have had to tweek it as Tim did, but as far as I can remember it didn't cause any problems. Sorry I can't help you further and good luck finding a solution.

Your question re DCC passed way above my head, but I see Tim has answered that as well.

Cheers,
Peter
 
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