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Discussion in '2mm Lounge' started by john lewsey, 2 February 2015.
Hi the wheels motor bearings etc have turned up for the Beames so better get on with it then
Just a photo of the start of the chassis hopefully a sign of things to come
Hi just a few pics of progress
If I'm putting to many on please say
Looks lovely John.
How do you assemble/quarter the wheels?
Keep them coming. Post your groups of pictures in one message, it'll save you posting time.
Hi Richard I don't know if this is what you wanted it shows the back to back Guage and the wheels joined with an axle muff the 2mm association do have a quartering jig but I understand that it's out of stock I have spoken to guy that makes them and he says that there will be some more available .If not I'll have to try without it Nigel Hunt who makes the lankeyRadial tank never uses the jig so I'll see what happens but I will say I'm enjoying making this engine
I've just put a pound coin behind it to give you an idea of size
Tiny ain't they
What do you mean tiny, that's a big engine)
Great stuff John.
Quite agree! I dream of building an engine that's big enough to put a monster of a motor like that in It's got twice as many wheels on it than my scratch built effort too!!
You do make lovely models though Ian
Thank you John. That's my first ever completely scratch built engine in any scale. I'm really proud of her. She still needs the chassis finishing even now (brake gear, sand pipes, guard irons, etc), but does now sport a crew (and the tool boxes have been repainted green - they really didn't look quite right in Indian Red). Once I've got a bit more track down, I want to have a go at a tender engine. All being well I'll have more than one entry in next years scratch built loco competition (I don't think I'll be going up to the AGM this year).
For my rail motor bogie it was more or less done by eye and it rolls quite freely. The 2mm Association wheels are on stub axles which push onto the plastic insulating muff. So I just pushed the wheels onto the muff lining up the spokes by eye to give a 90deg. quartering. The stub axles start catching in the muff well over the back to back distance, firm enough to hold the wheels but not too much so that you can twist them. So I then fitted the coupling rods to see how accurate the quartering was, it was a little bit out initially but at this stage it was still easy to twist the wheels in the muff. So it was a little bit of trial and error twisting wheels but once I was happy I then squeezed them in that final bit onto a back to back gauge.