Max M
Western Thunderer
I recently acquired used example of the above from a well known auction site. Apart from a clean and lubrication it was in good condition.
My only (slight) gripe was that there was some stiction on the hand wheel operation.
I have added some thrust bearings which has made the operation much smoother.
Adding the bearings moves the hand wheel 4mm away from the table so it was necessary to fabricate a spacer to cover the gap.
To fit the bearings invert the table and slacken the grub screws in the retaining collars which allows the screw to be withdrawn. Keep the thrust washers as they my be necessary to a a little extra clearance between the hand wheel.
Slide on the spacer and one bearing pack, pass the screw back through the table, add the other bearing pack and collar then re-engage the screw into the brass threaded doofa (it's a technical term for those unfamiliar with it
)
Backlash can be minimised if the collar grub screw is tightened when the table has been wound toward the hand wheel.
The larger diameter of the thrust bearing is not an issue for the Y (for and aft) axis but does reduce the movement at one end of the X axis.
This can be (relatively) easily rectified by filing the table base to provide some clearance for the bearing.
To remove the table it is necessary to undo the threaded brass doofa and loosen the four grub screws that retain and adjust the steel blade. With the blade removed it is possible to lift the table up as the hand wheel screw is dropped down and the base slid off the rest of the table.
If the steel blade is not removed then with the brass doofa still on the screw it prevent the two parts being separated even when the doofa is unscrewed from the base. If you were to remove the hand wheel screw first and undo the doofa retaining screw this would let the doofa drop down and allow the parts to be separated. You would then have to try and re-unite screw and doofa with the base in place. It may be possible but I didn't try.
This shows the small amount that needs to be removed from the base to provide clearance for the bearing.
If you have a KT150 then it is a mod I'm pleased with and would recommend, if you don't have one then my appologies for wasting your time.
My only (slight) gripe was that there was some stiction on the hand wheel operation.
I have added some thrust bearings which has made the operation much smoother.
Adding the bearings moves the hand wheel 4mm away from the table so it was necessary to fabricate a spacer to cover the gap.
To fit the bearings invert the table and slacken the grub screws in the retaining collars which allows the screw to be withdrawn. Keep the thrust washers as they my be necessary to a a little extra clearance between the hand wheel.
Slide on the spacer and one bearing pack, pass the screw back through the table, add the other bearing pack and collar then re-engage the screw into the brass threaded doofa (it's a technical term for those unfamiliar with it
)Backlash can be minimised if the collar grub screw is tightened when the table has been wound toward the hand wheel.
The larger diameter of the thrust bearing is not an issue for the Y (for and aft) axis but does reduce the movement at one end of the X axis.
This can be (relatively) easily rectified by filing the table base to provide some clearance for the bearing.
To remove the table it is necessary to undo the threaded brass doofa and loosen the four grub screws that retain and adjust the steel blade. With the blade removed it is possible to lift the table up as the hand wheel screw is dropped down and the base slid off the rest of the table.
If the steel blade is not removed then with the brass doofa still on the screw it prevent the two parts being separated even when the doofa is unscrewed from the base. If you were to remove the hand wheel screw first and undo the doofa retaining screw this would let the doofa drop down and allow the parts to be separated. You would then have to try and re-unite screw and doofa with the base in place. It may be possible but I didn't try.
This shows the small amount that needs to be removed from the base to provide clearance for the bearing.
If you have a KT150 then it is a mod I'm pleased with and would recommend, if you don't have one then my appologies for wasting your time.
