davey4270
Western Thunderer
Try soldering the Allen key in the screw.
Removing the screws in Slaters wheels
- Thread starter Marc Dobson
- Start date
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Don't forget, Mark, that the wheels which kicked this off, and my subsequent post about the Hall, were with regard to wheels which had been in use for many years so whatever shortcomings there may be now will not apply. Equally, if we are getting product from Slaters which is not up to par we should refer it back to David at Slaters. On the rare occasions I've talked to him about an issue his reaction has been very positive and unless we report it how does he know there's a problem?
Brian
Brian
Richard Gawler
Western Thunderer
As a consumer, my contract is with the supplier not the manufacturer. As it happens I bought my wheels (including this clogged-up screw) with a loco kit, from the designer of the kit; and I know they will be interested to know. So I'll be in touch with them, but in the New Year. I need to check the other five screws before then.
adrian
Flying Squad
It's not being a killjoy - all I was suggesting was trying a Torx driver, the broach used to cut the corner for the allen key to me are not perfectly sharp angles, it is rounded. I'm going to continue using the torx driver as I feel it is a better fit than an allen key and less likely to damage the socket, not saying that allen key is wrong but just the shape is amenable to using either. It's not a pure torq socket but neither is it a pure hex socket either.
The hole is pretty deep so it's not obstructing the allen key or torx driver in seating properly at all. Also it's not loose swarf, this is just a shaving to make the corner lobe so it's still part of the screw. To remove this imho is not necessary and would add additional processes and cost to the item.
I certainly don't have any problem with these screws for the wheels, in fact I quite like them, the "swarf" isn't a problem and I can use a little torx driver on them which I prefer to small allen keys. It's similar to mechanics socket sets, you can get rounded lobed sockets that apply pressure on the sides of a hex bolt and are much less susceptible to rounding off bolts than the pure hex socket, I think these will be the same, the torx driver less likely to round off the socket.
adrian
Flying Squad
Sorry but I don't view this as a "clogged-up" screw, the socket is deep enough for the size, the curls of metal at the bottom are just a result of the manufacturing process and see no reason why or additional benefit from getting it removed - apart from making them more expensive.
oldravendale
Western Thunderer
Of course your contract is with the supplier, Richard - I made an assumption that you'd have bought direct from Slaters and we know what assumptions are the mother of.....
The point I was rather clumsily trying to make was that we can't expect to see product improvement unless we take the time to let the manufacturer know about an issue.
And Adrian - you are quite right. I'd assumed (again) that Richard was experiencing a problem here which needed addressing. Certainly it's not an issue I've experienced, but then I'm not in the habit of looking down the 'ole before I apply the Allen key.
Brian
The point I was rather clumsily trying to make was that we can't expect to see product improvement unless we take the time to let the manufacturer know about an issue.And Adrian - you are quite right. I'd assumed (again) that Richard was experiencing a problem here which needed addressing. Certainly it's not an issue I've experienced, but then I'm not in the habit of looking down the 'ole before I apply the Allen key.
Brian
Renovater
Western Thunderer
A quick nip with a disc and we're back on road.
Marc Dobson
Western Thunderer
I can't speak for everyone but the ones on my MR tank have the brass centres. Now that Xmas is out of the way I'm going to see if I can get the screws out. Going to try the soldering the Alan key method first if that fails the the cutting disc option.
Marc
Marc
Rob R
Western Thunderer
I thought the old Slaters 7mm wheels were a taper fit into a brass bush? Or was that a later iteration?
John K
Western Thunderer
I agree. I wouldn’t use anything else on a Slater’s wheel screw.
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Northroader
Western Thunderer
The taper fit are used for wheels for outside frame cranks. Assembly needs careful planning, once they’re on, it’s a hell of a job getting them off.
Marc Dobson
Western Thunderer
Screwdriver arrived this morning. 5 minutes later I had the chassis in hand. It didn't go the way I had planned. It just shredded the holes. The screws turned out to be a lot softer than I expected.
I'm going to have a go at soldering a bit of wire into one of the holes next.
Marc
I'm going to have a go at soldering a bit of wire into one of the holes next.
Marc
simond
Western Thunderer
I agree with Martyn. Any wire you can solder to the screw will not be stiffer in torsion than the screwdriver, and will probably just twist off. And you risk ruining the wheels with the heat.
2.8 drill, the head will come off, the wheel and axle will not be damaged and the screws are cheap.
2.8 drill, the head will come off, the wheel and axle will not be damaged and the screws are cheap.
When you put the new screws back in lightly coat them in copper slip/grease. I always do this with Slaters wheels and I never have a problem getting them back off, even after 3/4/5 years.
Nick