Richard's Diesel Work Bench 37273 and 46037 and a DJH Class 31

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Richard,

Are you driving just one axle? I can't see the 'Remote' gearbox in your picture?

Steph


Steph I was going to use delrin chain as the front axle sits on a rocking bar which gets in the way of a remote gearbox.

I have to say that the gearbox is really good, very quiet and super smooth running.

Richard
 

Steph Dale

Western Thunderer
Richard,

I did wonder - the acetal sprocket had me wondering. Hence the question.

You might find the Mkits series 13:1 a better fit. It's narrow enough to suit the usual delrin chain drives with a sprocket on the same axle. Axle to motor shaft dimensions are pretty much the same, but the gears are metal in the Rford series and the gearboxes are narrower overall.

I thought you had a set of Power and Remote gearboxes at Telford last year?

Steph
 
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Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Steph I was going to use delrin chain as the front axle sits on a rocking bar which gets in the way of a remote gearbox.

I have to say that the gearbox is really good, very quiet and super smooth running.

Richard

They are fantastic, I need to order a 'few' soon.

JB.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Richard
Lovely work, I especially like the 37. May I ask how you masked up the front of the engine, for the small yellow bit under the code box. In particular the rounded corners. I have this to do on my 4mm version...and in all my years of modelling I've never had to do this...so any advise would be appreciated. This is my first diesel in 24 years (wouldn't want to make a habit of it).

Mike
Hi Mike , what about using a hole punch to give you the radius . Draw two lines at 90deg on to a bit of masking tape then use the punch to take out the corner , after that cut out the rest of the straight lines . Does that make sense?
Cheers Paul
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Richard,

I did wonder - the acetal sprocket had me wondering. Hence the question.

You might find the Rford series 13:1 a better fit. It's narrow enough to suit the usual delrin chain drives with a sprocket on the same axle. Axle to motor shaft dimensions are pretty much the same, but the gears are metal in the Rford series and they're narrower overall.

I thought you had a set of Power and Remote gearboxes at Telford last year?

Steph


Steph

Yes I did get a set of power and remote gearboxes so I'm using the power gearbox as these are to hand.

I didn't realise that you did others, so I will take a look.

Richard
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Hi Richard - this is how I used the Finney7 power and remote gearboxes:

The first application is in my Met Bo-Bo. The only thing not shown is the stabilising rod linking the two gearboxes and the propshafts are joined by a piece of neoprene tube with a ball bearing between the shafts for a constant velocity (CV) joint.

Met 49.jpg

Met 50.jpg

And this is in a 8' wheelbase (for a battery electric loco) using a split shaft and a piece of 2mm tube.

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I dare say you could use this in an A1A truck as the propshaft will clear the centre non-driving carrying axle.
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Dave

You probably could get it all to fit in the 31 bogie, but I have reengineered it for 3 beam compensation and its not going to be possible to fit the remote gearbox when the front axle sits on a rocking beam, but it is something to think about for future models.
In the bottom photo are the axles running in sprung hornblocks ?
How do you manage to split the shaft of the split shaft ?


Richard
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
In the bottom photo are the axles running in sprung hornblocks ?

Yes the are Alan Gibson 4mm hornblocks as these are Slaters's wagon wheels on 1/8'' axles. I sleeved the axles to fit the F7 gearboxes.


How do you manage to split the shaft of the split shaft ?

After measuring (and sealing the motor bearings with blu-tac) I carefully ground the end of the shaft with my Proxxon and slitting disc. The gearbox shaft was ground before fitting.

BEL2 10.jpg
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
I did a bit more on the 31 bogies yesterday evening.

I added the motor gearbox and delrin drive chain.

Getting the Delrin cogs onto the axles is always "fun" they are a strong force fit so this is how I do it.

If you ream the millimeter of the cog so that it goes fairly easily onto the axle you can then force the rest on in a vice.

This part gets you so far then you need a clamp with a hole in it on the far side to do the rest.

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The clamp with a hole in it doesn't need to be anything special I use this to help reprofile wheels.

Now you can carefully push the axle through everything, just don't over do it.

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richard carr

Western Thunderer
Ian

These are never going to slip, you can't push these on with you bare hands, it takes a serious amount of force.

If you ream them fully first to get them to fit, then yes they will need pinning.

Richard
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Unfortunately I have been very busy with work over the past month, but I have managed to progress the 31 a bit further.

I have managed to finish both bogies (there is still the sand pipes to add) and then moved onto the body.

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Here's the number one end right hand side (if you were sat in the cab), this has the brake pipe work, there isn't any on the other side as it appears to go across the inside of the bogie to reach the other side. You might notice that the motor end looks higher than the front end, sadly it is here. I checked everything against the drawing and everything is exactly as it should be, but it isn't level, so I have had to cut about 1.2 mm from the compensation beams to level it up.

It looks a lot better here

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Here I'm fitting the brakes and the brake pull levers, this needs to be done in a couple of steps, trying to do it all at once didn't want to work.

First you need to drill out the levers then solder the brass castings and the 2 levers together. You can then glue one of the brakes in position, once that is done the other brake can be positioned and the levers put on wire through the brakes and then the remaining parts can be glues together.
Personally I wouldn't try and solder these together as it has to be done with the wheels in place, they will be covered in flux if you do and need a great deal of cleaning up.



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richard carr

Western Thunderer
These are the completed bogies

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There is very little sideplay and the front and rear axles maybe a quarter of a millimeter, so there should be any issues with shorting on the brake gear.

So now it's time to move onto the body, this had already been largely completed but it is at this stage that you realise how little you actually know about the class and how they changed over the years.

I wanted this to be a north east based loco set around 1982 and 31290 fits the bill from photos I have found of it on Gateshead shed.
At that time it still had the body stripe and fully covered buffer beam skirts.

The body stripe though was represented with 0.5mm etched brass as per the kit, where if you look at the real thing it is only just noticeable so needs to be much thinner, so I will use some clear transfer paper cut size and painted over. So I have had to pull a few bits of and clean off the glue that was holding it on. So this is where I have got to now.


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A lot of the hard work has been done, drilling all those holes for the rivets must have been a bit of a nightmare if you ask me.

The 2 major roof panels look like they could do with redoing. The welded over cab doors need fitting and a few hand rails need removing before it's painted.
 
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