Silver soldering

[Clarence3815]

Afternoon all,

For my sins I model 12mm gauge Swiss metre gauge as part of my railway modelling.

In turnouts the prototype uses an L section special rail section for the blades and I want to replicate this.

I`m using Micro Engineering code 55 flat bottom rail which is a very close match for the prototypical rail section in use at the time of my model.

To represent the L section I use the code 55 rail and file off the foot and then silver solder a flat piece of nickel silver to represent the foot. I then file to suit the finished section.

I no longer have access to the propane gas torch I used originally.

What would members recommend for a suitable heat source presently?

Many thanks,

Bernard

 

[DavidB]

I would have thought a small torch like this Proxxon microflame. I have one which is very useful, currently in use for lighting the woodburner!

It runs on butane lighter fluid which I get in a can from the hardware store though the link is to Amazon.

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

This is my silver soldering setup. A couple of fire bricks and an Irodo butane blowtorch. Most of the soldering is done with Brazepaste from Cooksons. It just needs a smear and there is very little cleaning up afterwards.

Ian.

 

[simond]

Likewise

I use an offcut of marble tile as a hot work place, I’ve drilled a couple of holes in it using a tc drill, so I can pit pins & clips in place to hold things. I have a cook's blowlamp which I’d expect to be up to the job, assuming your rails aren’t 10’s of cms long. If you do need something bigger, a standard gas blowlamp from a diy shed should be more than adequate.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/KitchenCra...ow+lamp&qid=1609005518&sr=8-4&tag=googhydr-21

Other suppliers exist, of course.

atb
Simon

 

[michael080]

Bernard,

how long is the seam your want to produce? I think it might become complicated if you want to heat a very thin rail of considerable length, because the required temperature may not be achieved simultaneously. The rail might warp. Using a furnace might actually be an idea.

Michael

 

[Clarence3815]

Many thanks to all.

I think the longest one is about 35mm. I know I managed this OK some years ago when I first was exploring this project.

Bernard

 

[michael080]

I am sure you are fine with 35mm. Even heating can be done with any of the "creme brulee burner" style torches as proposed by Ian and Simon. They are cheap and run on lighter gas. Being a toolaholic, I chose the luxury version
ROTHENBERGER industrial Crème Brûlée Torch | eBay
Michael

 

[Hobbyhorse]

My setup for silver soldering.

Simon

 

[Clarence3815]

I have a Sievert torch and several nozzles but I seem to remember that they were too violent for this application. I tried my cyclone nozzle as I remember.

I`ll try that again and see if it works.

Many thanks.

Bernard

 

[Ian@StEnochs]

My setup for silver soldering.

Simon


View attachment 134995

I have one of those too but it’s much too cumbersome for 7mm so keep it for silver soldering copper boilers. I have a smaller nozzle which is ok but the cylinder and pipework takes up too much space in my inside workshop.

Ian

 

[Richard]

Like many others here I find that a cooks blowtorch will silver solder most small items quite easily.

I have some firebricks which I use as I find they are good for reflecting heat back into the work from underneath.

I silver solder the crossing noses of my point work of 7mm scale bullhead and flat bottomed rail quite easily, and have also used the small cooks torch for soldering nipples onto the ends of 1/8" dia copper pipe.

 

[Clarence3815]

I`ve silver soldered crossing noses for my Swiss modelling for years but I`ve never known of anyone else doing it. Cheers Richard.

 

[michael080]

Silver soldering is a great alternative if you need the extra strength of a joint. Like this one:


How long would a joint between a 3mm door handle and the 0.8mm pivot last if soft-soldered?

Michael

 

[simond]

Question:

Is there any reason why I shouldn’t silver solder steel (slidebars) to cast brass (cylinder covers)?

And

Are there any specific steps I’d need to take in so doing?

thx
Simon

 

[adrian]

This is my silver soldering setup. A couple of fire bricks and an Irodo butane blowtorch. Most of the soldering is done with Brazepaste from Cooksons. It just needs a smear and there is very little cleaning up afterwards.

I have used a plumbers gas torch in the past but it's a little on the bulky side for the modelling work - I decided to treat myself to an Iroda torch like this - mainly because local CPC are offering them an nice discount (less than £20) so it'd be churlish to refuse their offer.

https://cpc.farnell.com/iroda/pt-500/gas-torch-gas-heavy-duty-pt-500/dp/SD0142361

 

[Lancastrian]

Silver soldering is a great alternative if you need the extra strength of a joint. Like this one:
View attachment 135121

How long would a joint between a 3mm door handle and the 0.8mm pivot last if soft-soldered?

Michael

Michael,

I make them out of brass wire.

Make a 90 degree bend in the wire, longer than the length of the required handle. Place in a vice so the bent length is over the rear fixed jaw. Bash it flat with a suitable hammer to flatten the wire! Remove from the vice and file to shape.

Ian