7mm US model dabblings

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
All the bogie side frames present and affixed too, they usually break off.

I do need to get back to mine, replace the original (half) scratch built Plasticard cab interior with a new etched one, new 3D printed control stands and front dash too.

Dimly recall taking the plough off and having visions of an etched replacement as well, I think I also took the nose # boards off as well as they were too chunky, some new 3D ones in order there as well.

Must finish GP9B body shell first though..........well maybe not :D

I was tempted to go with the black Rio Grande scheme for a bit of fun, which is all this is for me similarly to Mick. However looking at the livery again, I'm quietly confident I could do a reasonable job of the Yellow/Silver/4 black lines, so long as I could get some long black decal strips. I did do a search for the dedicated Microscale F unit Decal pack, but everywhere seems to be out of stock.

JB.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
P.s. All of the bogie sides did fall off straight away, but just used a bit of easily removable glue to hold them in place for the time being. I need to try and find a way to get some paint on the shiny wheels. I'm thinking a smear of thin superglue which will take paint when dry.

JB.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
The paint job on the F is pretty offensive

As Jordan says - the application of the paint yes - the Warbonnet scheme - no.

If the F7 is the old Atlas/Roco model check the gears on the axles to make sure they're not split. Suitable replacement OW5 and P48 wheelsets are available from NorthWest Shortline.

Decal removal - try lighter fluid or IPA first.
MEK should be ok for the steps but I'd pin them as well.

Decals - in O scale you have to end up mixing and matching :). Have you tried Microscale direct? sheet 48-100 for DRGW PA-1/PB-1 locos - this will give you the lettering and stripes.

You could always try Allegheny Scale Models for decals.
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
As Jordan says - the application of the paint yes - the Warbonnet scheme - no.

If the F7 is the old Atlas/Roco model check the gears on the axles to make sure they're not split. Suitable replacement OW5 and P48 wheelsets are available from NorthWest Shortline.

Decal removal - try lighter fluid or IPA first.
MEK should be ok for the steps but I'd pin them as well.

Decals - in O scale you have to end up mixing and matching :). Have you tried Microscale direct? sheet 48-100 for DRGW PA-1/PB-1 locos - this will give you the lettering and stripes.

You could always try Allegheny Scale Models for decals.

Many thanks Dave, that link has rather thrown a spanner in the works. I think I need to start my own US Dabblings thread to prevent hijacking Mick's.

JB.
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Speaking of which and the steps, would mek be suitable for putting the steps back on?
Must admit, "I don't know" is the answer to that one. On my pair I removed the remaining ones as they are pretty fragile & vulnerable anyway, and replaced them with metal ones fixed to the chassis. I'll have to get them out & refresh my memory - because despite going by the name "F-UnitMad" Over There, I haven't had my F-Units out for a couple of years at least; I've been far too distracted with a lot of hand-spiking of track, and other locomotives with DCC Sound. :oops: :drool:
 

MarkNJ

Member
Yes, the overspray (if they sprayed it) is quite impressive, and the pointy apex of the curve on the side is quite a thing to manage to. The horns and (most of) the brake cylinders are in the box, just missing one.

I'm not sure how to remove the decal off of the front. It's pretty well on there. I may have to resort to a glass fibre brush as I'd rather not melt the plastic with anything. Speaking of which and the steps, would mek be suitable for putting the steps back on? All of these do seem to be present in the box.

JB.

Hi JB,

Do you have access to Walthers Sovaset? This is possibly the most aggressive of the decal setting solutions and should be able to remove the decal with out damaging the paint work.

Mark
 

Scale7JB

Western Thunderer
Hi JB,

Do you have access to Walthers Sovaset? This is possibly the most aggressive of the decal setting solutions and should be able to remove the decal with out damaging the paint work.

Mark

Hi Mark,

I have the Microsol and Microset, I think are the names. Not too worried about the paint as it'll be resprayed anyway but rather not damage the plastic.

JB.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Large fibre brush works well, long bristles so it isn't too stiff, that'll soon get rid of them. Had to do that on the MTH GEVO as the IPA wouldn't get under them to the paint below.
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Hi JB,

Do you have access to Walthers Sovaset? This is possibly the most aggressive of the decal setting solutions and should be able to remove the decal with out damaging the paint work.

Mark
Does Solvaset have a 'shelf life'? I've got a bottle of it which must be getting close to 30 years old!! In recent years I've used Microsol & Microset. I haven't been able to find any info on how long Solvaset is supposed to last in the bottle.
I know the easy answer is "try it & see" but I haven't got anything 'cheap & cheerful' to test it on at the moment!!
 

JasonD

Western Thunderer
If what's in the Solvaset bottle is still moving, it's OK (solvent), otherwise it'll have evaporated. Only (paint) resins go hard - did someone on here say store paint upside down so air can't seep in down the screw-top thread and make it set? Haven't tried it yet, but I will.

I haven't used brake fluid for too many years for getting decals (and paint if you wait) off many plastic shells and the formula was changed many years ago. Acetone might work if IPA doesn't. I will try all these before I put my hands near a fibre-glass brush ... just me!

That certainly is an Atlas/Roco F9A, the two little slots at the bottom of the bodyshell above the fuel tank area are where it clips on to the chassis. The wheels are plated whitemetal, chrome plating I seem to remember, nickel-silver may not 'adhere' to w/m so well, or it's more expensive, or .... Just powering the loco to get the wheels turning slowly and loading up the long bristle brush with murky dark browny-grey will take the shine off. Don't do the treads!

The rear steps will re-glue with MEK, Plastruct and others, but as they've broken off it will only be a face-to-face mend and can easily happen again. Reinforcing with a pin didn't appeal to me so I cut a piece of black plastic in a longer U-shape than the step and glued it inside the bodyshell for strength. If you try that take a shallow edge off the chassis to allow for the thickness of the plastic reinforcement piece.

Let me know if you want any spare details (brake cyls on truck side-frames was it?), I have some spare parts from the good old days.
Jason
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
P&D lists two F unit decal sets on the site, which usually means they are in stock.

O Scale - Rio Grande F-Units (1961-1985) -- Stock# 48-688

O Scale - Rio Grande F-Units (1951-1961) -- Stock# 48-693 - I could not find an example of this set on the Microscale site, so no link :(

Both of these sets should be for the Aspen Gold, silver, and black schemes, early 4 stripe and later single stripe simplified. I'm confused on the dates since the simplified scheme should be later, but neither here nor there.

If you wanted to try the late black/orange scheme, P&D lists 2 sets for the gp60. No photos on the P&D site, and again I cannot find an archived example on the Microscale site. I don't know why there would be two sets for the same loco.

P&D O scale decals page

Normally, if the items are listed on the website, then they are in stock. A call or email to the shop will verify what they have. If you call, ask for Pat, the other guys don't know much about the O scale stock.

Lastly, there is a 2-rail show coming up early next month, which has not yet been canceled, and which Pat normally attends as a vendor. I would normally attend, but I'm on the fence at the moment due to Covid. However, if both Pat and I attend, I could either recon the decal sets and send you photos, or I could simply pick up sets for forwarding to you, or I could do both if we arrange for timely communication while I am there. You could also always order directly from Pat if he has what you need, the only advantages I could offer you is photos first and the potential for lower shipping cost.

Also of note, I believe P&D also stocks drive line parts for the F units, if you discover that you need new gears.
 
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mickoo

Western Thunderer
Oooh, that was a very near miss,

Overland Brass Diesel. OMI CA-1128 | eBay

Back to decals, it's a shame Microscale appear to have dropped the BNSF H2 set from the 1:48 range, still available in HO (87-1024) but not O (48-678), I've seen some on auction sites but they're real auction houses and buying is a faff/near impossibility or auction has long ended.
 

Big Train James

Western Thunderer
P&D indicates lists the MS 48-678 set on their website. Also 48-677, which I cannot find a reference for on the Microscale site. Not sure how different it is to the 48-678 set, as they both indicate as for circa 1997 era c44-9's, but the distinction might be down to road number series. Lastly, 48-626 appears to be in stock, which should be for the sd70mac's.

Microscale shows 48-747 in stock, for the es44dc's.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
48-747 is the new Swoosh livery and standard on all new engines, give or take. It also has the unique singular yellow swoosh BNSF for (unit # escapes me now)

48-678 is the Heritage II livery with ATSF cigar band nose logo stamped with BNSF

48-677 I think is Heritage I but not sure, I can't find any web references to it or images to check.

48-626 is I believe Heritage II for EMD SD70's etc, different shaped cigar band and other slight changes over GE models.

There doesn't appear to be a set for the early ATSF red warbonnet scheme with red BNSF logos, HO has it as 87-979.

Anyway, I've ordered three sets of 678, I'm sure I'll get a mail saying nil stock, but we'll see, thanks for the tip off all the same.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
48-747 is the new Swoosh livery and standard on all new engines, give or take. It also has the unique singular yellow swoosh BNSF for (unit # escapes me now)

48-678 is the Heritage II livery with ATSF cigar band nose logo stamped with BNSF

48-677 I think is Heritage I but not sure, I can't find any web references to it or images to check.

48-626 is I believe Heritage II for EMD SD70's etc, different shaped cigar band and other slight changes over GE models.

There doesn't appear to be a set for the early ATSF red warbonnet scheme with red BNSF logos, HO has it as 87-979.

Anyway, I've ordered three sets of 678, I'm sure I'll get a mail saying nil stock, but we'll see, thanks for the tip off all the same.

I need to correct something above, it'd been niggling me for a few days, I didn't think ED44DCs were swoosh livery, they are, so microscale are correct.

But, right in the middle of the ES44DC batch is a block of PhI engines with Heritage II scheme; the ES44DC's were not built in numerical order, it starts mid range at 7395 - 7799, then jumps back to 7200 - 7394 then forward to carry on from the first batch with 7800 - 7920.

The odd part is that the Heritage II scheme units are right in the middle of a swoosh order, 7650 - 7743, there will be a reason, I haven't found it yet.

For the record, the yellow swoosh unit is in the ES44DC batch, namely 7695.

Eitherway, P&D have confirmed three sets of 48-678 shipped today :thumbs: and I think the MTH GEVO was most easily converted to a ES44DC with new panels where the AC inverters sit (need to recheck notes); the other two will be gull wing Dash 9's from etches.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Mick,
Just catching up with this topic, you mentioned the PFM D&SL 2-6-6-0 a few posts back, just for information ;)



This came in 2004 from Uncle Dave's Brass via Ebay at $1776 + $90 shipping, but in those days £1 got you $1.80 !

Nice, the current one on Ebay didn't sell and it's on it's second round but reduced, not enough though to tempt me ;)

There's still two GEVO's on there and now that I have the decals I've been waiting years for in the post I may be tempted for one of them :D
 

JasonD

Western Thunderer
Hi Ian, it's a GE. OK, OK, it's blue with 2 diag white stripes on the long hood. Yes I know, but that's like cruising down Railroad Av when the Mexican restaurant has the aircon on.

The thickness of the radiator overhang in front of that autorack is a bit indistinct and the trucks would be a great clu ... John says CEFX
 
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