Steph Dale
Western Thunderer
Hmm, one wonders (or assumes?) whether that's the same Philip Millard who was one-time purveyor of all things 0-gauge...?
Steph
Steph
Those plans for the Weighbridge hut are incorrect. The roof pitch in the drawings doesn't represent the actual building. Philip says in the article that a roof pitch of 50degress is unusual. He is right, because the roof pitch isn't!
Not sure, but seems to make sense as that is where the chimney is. The fireplace is designed to fit at 45deg into the corner. I’ve another picture somewhere from above and I couldn’t see any evidence of the chimney coming from a central fireplace.Thanks for this snippet. I picked up the mag for the two photos - especially the one showing the rear.
Would the fireplace have been at 45 deg in the corner of the room?
Not sure if your Trotec is the same as the Trotec Trolase I have. Real MEK works well for me, a bit slower acting than on styrene. I buy MEK in half litre bottles from plumbing suppliers, it is used as a primer for PVC pipe joints - make sure you get the clear version not the red stained one.This is a mixture of laser cut MDF for the supports and Trotec acrylic for the sides and steps. I've never come across Trotec before and it'll be interesting working with this and finding out what sticks it together.
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Hmm, one wonders (or assumes?) whether that's the same Philip Millard who was one-time purveyor of all things 0-gauge...?
Steph
The very same.Not sure if your Trotec is the same as the Trotec Trolase I have. Real MEK works well for me, a bit slower acting than on styrene. I buy MEK in half litre bottles from plumbing suppliers, it is used as a primer for PVC pipe joints - make sure you get the clear version not the red stained one.
Hmm, one wonders (or assumes?) whether that's the same Philip Millard who was one-time purveyor of all things 0-gauge...?
This shows the teaks I carried out the the end window lintel to match the the photograph.
Carrying on with the build the next step was to paint the base and steps a sort of concrete colour with a black and brown wash applied. This will provide the base on which the final weathering will be applied once the weighbridge is complete.
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This is the inner carcass on the base and the door painted black (in deference to the Rolling Stones it wasn't initially red). View attachment 90466
The cream and engineering blue applied, sealed with satin varnish. Once dry the mortar mix was applied and wiped off when dry.View attachment 90467
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Close up of the front window sill. Here I rounded the corners before installation. View attachment 90469
Onto the end window which was added during the building's life as it did not exist when built. This is as cut and provided in the kit.
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This shows the teaks I carried out the the end window lintel to match the the photograph.
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The original of the above.
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And finally the chimney. Again this was a relatively simple construction with the four sides locking an internal cap (the cross shaped piece below the chimney). The brick embellishments are the five rectangular pieces at the bottom of the photograph.
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Painted and it still requires the cap and pot.
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Hi Jonte
As requested.
These are the basic colours I use for pre-war and 1950-60's concrete. The grey smooth concrete seen today is a more appears less common during the period I'm depicting.
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These are the washes and colours used later in the process. View attachment 90526
The palette. I tend to mix up the main concrete colour with Middlestone and Buff and randomly add a touch of Stone Grey and White to vary the tone. There's no hard and fast mixing ratio - I just mix the colours until it looks right to me.View attachment 90527
This is the basic colour applied to MDF and on a piece of rough card. View attachment 90528
Once dry I apply a wash. This may vary depending on the effect I'm after. Here I have used Oxide, none and a Brown wash.View attachment 90529
I then wiped the excess off View attachment 90530
Then I drybrushed a mix of Buff, Stone Grey and a touch of Yellowish Rust. The latter gives a slighly pink effect some concretes have. In some cases I will apply a further Grey/Brown wash to simulate the dirt into the lower areas.
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Having seen the effect on the rough card I may end up using this for hard standing areas and the linear effects almost replicate hand tamped concrete where a length of wood has been used as a float.
Back to the old bothy.
Spent some time this afternoon 'bedding' it into the plinth with some Woodland Scenics turf and cinders. And I made up a few weeds to add to the effect.
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I also painted some satin varnish over water stained wall...
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..... this oblique shot shows the effect of the varnish.
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