Yorky D's Küchentisch - DB V100... eins zwei drei

Wagonman

Western Thunderer
Some more intermittent work on the brake coach roof.

I pondered for hours how to attach the birdcage to the roof. In the end I tried Mikoo's technique of using a small sliver of solder in order to try a minimum solder construction.

After cutting the glazing the birdcage frames were soldered to the main roof and clamped on with metal bulldog clips. After this the birdcage roof was soldered on.

However, my question relating to early carriage roofs is - did they ever have rainstrips?

The roof.
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Temporarily on the carriage to see what it looks like.
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This wagon was a purchase from the O Gauge Guild E&T stand and after checking it over I could see an attempt to was made to weather the vehicle using black paint from a splatter gun.

In order to remove this I used a cotton wool bud soaked in gunwash (a cellulose thinner/cleaner I believe). This not only removed the black paint but started to remove the lettering and some of the original paint finish from the wagon. As I was going to re-weather the wagon anyway I was not too worried.

Once I had removed as much as I dare I set applied a Vallejo acrylic dark brown/black wash in order to get into the plank joins. After drying I drybrushed the wagon using various mixtures of dark brown, light brown and black mixed on a palette.

I then painted in some replacement planks, reapplied the dark brown/black wash and drybrushed again. I finally used a gunwash soaked cotton wool bud to clean the areas around certain lettering and applied a further wash of dark brown.

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Lovely work on weathering the wagon. It looks just right for a c1941 example..
 

Wagonman

Western Thunderer
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....and finally the roof received some attention. I may add some repair patches. This is still a bit shiny at the moment but once the carriage is complete it will receive a coat of matt varnish.
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Not the most logical approach to carriage building but I enjoy messing about constructing these in my own way :).


Really lovely work on the carriages too. I might even be tempted to buy some of those for my own (distant) project.
 
Class 33 Lima

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Having seen detailed Lima O scale class 33s around this forum I thought I would have a go at detailing one. So I acquired a Lima 33 and a PRMRP detail kit in order to do so.

But oh no :oops:......... the Lima 33 is not correct for 1:43.5. However, the length is correct for 1:45 but the width :eek:.......

After perusing the various 'Crompton' publications which sit minding their own business on my bookshelf I worked out the 33 needs to lose 6mm from the width to slim it to 1:45 scale. Armed with this information I proceeded to attack the body shell. Alas I forgot to take a 'before' photograph.

The ultimate aim of this exercise is to build an all axle drive using SDMP/Finney7 drive components with a centrally mounted Canon 1833 motor and ESU HO Loksound decoder. If successful this will be the basis of the drive system I'll use in my P48 ATSF U23B.

My approach was to cut the front windows out as one piece with a micro saw. The unmodified windows are at the bottom of the slimmed body.
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Once the front windows were removed from both ends the 6mm to be removed was marked out on the roof and ends, masking tape was used to provide the cutting lines and then away with the saw. The saw I used was a Trumpeter mini razor saw.
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The two halves were then roughly cleaned up and glued together ensuring they were square and at the correct width. The resulting gap then filled.
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Once set the radiator openings were removed and as I'm converting this to a late 33/0 the exhaust port was removed and the baffle box filled. The beading around the cab side windows was also cut along the door opening and the fixing holes in bottom of the door filled. One thing I did notice is the louvres are not as subtle as those on my GP9. Then I suppose these are a rather prominent feature of early EMD diesels.
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This is one end completed with the narrowed window pillars. I also replaced the upper gutter and the window gutters with Evergreen styrene strip. The original shallow curve can be seen below the new roof gutter. It is evident more filling is required but I will wait until the first surface primer layer has been applied which will reveal any other areas requiring attention.
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This one shows the new windows and the original windows. I used a black marker pen on the lower set of windows just to see the effect.
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At the time I did not have the £££s to purchase a JLTRT 33/1 :oops:. However, in hindsight, with the work I'll be doing on this one I may just as well have.
 

lankytank

Western Thunderer
Dave, if you don't mind me crashing this one.......... :rolleyes::thumbs:

Richard, I've just searched both Amazon & eBay - on "Trumpeter Saw", various suppliers, cost between about sick squid & a tenner - even one for £31-00 (don't think so...!)

HTH
Baz
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Neat work there Dave :thumbs:

This is one of those free wheeling projects I'd like to have a bash at, granted you end up with a 1:45 scale model but they do look good when finished. So I'm going to sit back and watch this one and make notes ;)

It's a shame JLTRT doesn't do a /2 'Slim Jim' variant but the /1 is nice too.

MD
 

allegheny1600

Western Thunderer
Good work Dave!
Kind of reminds me of the work required on the Lima "H0" model to turn it into a scale H0 model, didn't both models appear around the same time?
Cheers,
John.
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Kind of reminds me of the work required on the Lima "H0" model to turn it into a scale H0 model, didn't both models appear around the same time?

I believe they did appear concurrently.

Back in the dark ages when I was messing about with British HO I got as far a cutting and shutting the HO version to scale width, sourcing the drive trucks (Bachmann 8'9'' EPB which scaled out at 10' in HO) and began making patterns for the truck sideframes and underframe details. All of which have long gone.

So I'm going to sit back and watch this one and make notes ;)

Plagiarise as much as you like - that's what it's all about :).

On a pedantry note at 1:45 scale it'll be the most accurate model for 32mm track :p!
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
Plagiarise as much as you like - that's what it's all about :).

On a pedantry note at 1:45 scale it'll be the most accurate model for 32mm track :p!

Indeed and fit well with my 1:45 V200; currently torn between a Euro enthusiasm project in 1:45 or 1:32, mind having spent all weekend in CAD in 1:32, it has it's appeal :cool:

MD
 

Jordan

Mid-Western Thunderer
Back in the dark ages when I was messing about with British HO I got as far a cutting and shutting the HO version to scale width, sourcing the drive trucks (Bachmann 8'9'' EPB which scaled out at 10' in HO) and began making patterns for the truck sideframes and underframe details. All of which have long gone.
I too once dabbled with British HO. Did all the "usual suspects" things; Roco Dutch EE shunter to Class 11, re-wheeled Lima wagons with Roco wheels, etc... plus of course messing about with the Lima 33. I didn't get drastic with it, in fact "as is" with wide body it fitted very snugly over a Walthers FA1 chassis, so instantly became a far better runner than most UK OO diesels of the time!! The wheelbase was a bit out so I didn't replace the sideframes, so it wasn't for Purists, but with the width uncorrected it was never going to be for Purists anyway!!
I also had a go at making a Class 22 from the Playcraft Class 21/29 body, on a Mehano chassis. This was never finished, & got binned when I decided to move to O Scale, whereas all the other stuff was sold on; some of it might still be in existance!! :)

To fully correct early Lima 33s in any scale is quite a task!! ;)
 

InvernessTMD

Western Thunderer
I have just recieved an order from Hannants with one of those saws! I also ordered a small square chisel, which looks and feels good quality. Just right for taking raised details off in confined spaces
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
The 33/0 received it's first coat of surface primer (Vallejo German Green Brown) which revealed further filling along the roof join and sanding in other areas.
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In addition I also replaced the radiator surround with Evergreen styrene strip and Archer rivet decals. Rivets were also applied to the silencer panel.
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The PRMRP horn grilles were made up but looked a bit too flat. I added some styrene to the top and sanded this down to a smooth curve to match the subtle curve of the roof.
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The roof front was hacked about to provide a mounting for the 'bee barps' :( (why didn't we adopt an ear piercing Nathan 3 or 5 chime :rolleyes:) and a seating for the rear of the horn casing.33 09.jpg

The horn casing is only placed on to see the effect. Once fixed it will be sanded down towards the rear to match the roof profile 33 10.jpg
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From the front. The horn casing will be straightened when it's permanently fixed. 33 14.jpg
 

43179

Western Thunderer
Neat work there Dave :thumbs:


It's a shame JLTRT doesn't do a /2 'Slim Jim' variant but the /1 is nice too.

MD
The slim jim was down as 'to follow' but I think has dropped off the radar - but
seeing how well the lima one can be hacked about , maybe that's the best route to take - ive always wanted a 33/2 myself ... hmmm

jon
 

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Having spent time filling, filing, sanding, filling, filing, sanding, filling, filing, sanding........

.... and and some more surface primer the yellow and blue paint were applied. The Yellow is standard Vallejo Model Air and the Blue is Railmatch acrylic.

However prior to applying the yellow and blue I experimented with some underpainting first to see what effect it would have.

A bit of an identity crisis as white and dark grey vertical streaks were applied.
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After drying the yellow was applied followed by the blue. This took about a week after allowing the yellow paint to dry prior to masking.

The Railmatch BR blue paint was thinned to a milk/single cream consistency with Vallejo thinners with a couple of drops of their airbrush flow improver. I understand Tamiya thinners also work with Railmatch acrylics.
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This shows the effect of the underpainting. The idea was to create a patchy worn finish. I also added a few patch paint repairs. For this I just added a darker blue to the railmatch blue.
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No 2 end.
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This end got knocked creating small indentations. Rather than fill and repaint them I just added some dark rust paint and turned them into rusting scratches.33 21.jpg
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
That's an inspirational and novel approach to creating a subtle result. So often weathering can be overdone. This looks superb.

Brian
 
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