LarryG's Wagon w.b.

Yorkshire Dave

Western Thunderer
Yes, they definitely demand a different technique. I’ve puddled enamels for ages to get the look I’m trying to achieve, and translucency, darker corners & crevices, etc, are all do-able as you note. I’m not too bothered about using the thinners and a brush indoors, but I like to air-brush too, and that’s a non-starter using enamels in the house. It stinks.

I’m going to persevere with the acrylics, I’ve seen some exquisite models painted with them, so I guess it’s just a case of learning.

Simon - why not have a go at underpainting the corners in a darker colour before applying the top coat so when applying weathering washes the corners will darken further. When using Vallejo model colour paints for washes I've found a brushful of Tamiya acrylic thinners in the paint/water wash mix is far better than using the Vallejo acrylic thinners.

I'm beginning to use the underpainting technique more frequently before applying top coats to achieve an effect I'm after. After all, if underpainting was good enough for the 17th century Dutch masters then it's good enough for me.
 

simond

Western Thunderer
Thanks Dave,

It’s an interesting idea, but a bit late for the Mica as I put the base coat on last week!

I think there’s probably a range of techniques that can, maybe have-to-be, employed using acrylics. I used the airbrush last night to waft some Vallejo Matt varnish over the transfers, and then to add some Matt earth over the underframe, lightly over the lower sides, and up the ends a little. I’ll have a go with washes next, which hopefully will start to highlight/lowlight the plank lines, hinges, doorstops, etc, and sort out the roof which is far too white!

image.jpg

So far, I guess I’m sticking to what I know rather than trying ideas like pre-shading.
Note to self.
“Do what you’ve always done, get what you always got..”

Cheers
Simon
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
The elderly lime wagon, which was weathered a few weeks ago, was further upgraded today with a private owner number on a black patch plus additional weathering. Lack of better information led me to give it a fictional number, but at least it looks far more at home in a BR setting now....

WEB Wagon 16.jpg

This wagon will be used for carrying bagged cement instead of lime...
WEB Wagon 58B.jpg
 
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LarryG

Western Thunderer
This is a Dia. 1/109 rivetted body version with pressed steel end door and currently unavailable. It was weathered as per the Dia. 1/108 (behind it) last October by spraying the whole body dark rust before drawing a pattern on it using Mascol. Body was then re-sprayed BR grey and when dry, the Mascol removed. Additional weathering carried out using washes of PPC Frame Dirt, Dirty Black, white spirit and Humbrol weathering powders. Transfers by HMRS "Methfix"....

WEB 16T steel 2.jpg

Photographed in early morning light hence the yellow cast. Dapols mazak coupling hooks are next to useless once the couplings fall out...
WEB 16T steel 4.jpg

Close up. Future steel mineral wagons won't be half so rusty...
WEB 16T steel 3.jpg
 
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LarryG

Western Thunderer
Build-one-day...paint-next-day... and so-on till all is done...

Parkside PS32 : BR (ex-SNCF) 16 ton Mineral wagon to Dia. 1/112 . Buffers left off to assist painting
WEb 16T steel 5.jpg
Some of those pesky little rope hooks sought asylum on my Dover carpet, but fortunately all were found ~ eventually.
 
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adrian

Flying Squad
Interesting to see that all the underframe is in black plastic - does this mean for this kit it's all in ABS like the buffers. The GWR vans I've been building have the underframe gear in the same grey plastic as the body, which is different to the buffers.

Buffers left off to assist painting
Curious to know why that helps. The kits I've built I've just stuck the buffers on during the build as all that area tends to end up black. Are they a different colour to the buffer beam or some other reason for leaving them off?

Finally I do think a little fettling of the coupling hook with a file would help - it seems a little "heavy" in the photos.
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
It's merely the way I do things Adrian. No point in subjecting buffers to plastic primer and grey paint. Fettling etc was done this morning after the wagon had set hard overnight. This is as it stands in BR early wagon grey with sprayed underframe and brush-painted solebars and bufferbeam...
WEB 16T steel 7.jpg
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Finished and photographed indoors tonight. Far less rust than on previous wagons. BR removed the rope loop above the handbrake handle when these wagons returned from France in the early 1950's...
WEB 16T steel 9.jpg

From the late 1950's they were banned from from carrying PW ballast or other engineering materials and carried lettering as such above the running number panel. Almost forgot to mention the transfers are HMRS, not Parkside.
WEB 16T steel 8.jpg
 
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Prairie Tank

Western Thunderer
They are amazing LarryG!!!!!!

They look very very realistic, I thought I was looking at photo's of the real thing in many of your posts, brilliant.

John :)
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
They are amazing LarryG!!!!!!

They look very very realistic, I thought I was looking at photo's of the real thing in many of your posts, brilliant.

John :)
You're very kind John. I wonder if it will work in a smaller scale....

A big oop's about this morning's PM...I got my Prairies mixed up with my Brush Type 4's :p
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
I have always had a soft spot for the sloping-sided 16T steel mineral . Maybe its just because they're different. Instructions suggested fitting ends to floor then springing in the sides to sit on the ledge on the floor. They wouldn't and it was clear the top of the sides would end up above the top of the ends. So it was pulled apart and I restarted by attaching sides to the ends to form an open box. The top of the sides needed notching to be a good fit. Then I filed the ledge off the floor and dropped it into the body from the top....

WEB 16T steel 10.jpg

Better to glue the backing plates to the axleboxes while attached to the sprue then remove the brass bearings. I also assemble the buffers while on their sprue...
WEB 16T steel 11.jpg

Finished awaiting the sprayshop...
WEB 16T steel 12.jpg
 
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LarryG

Western Thunderer
Great modelling, Can I ask why they were banned from carrying P way ballast, Thank you.
The ex. SNCF vehicles were very different to the other 16 tonners, having continental 'cupboard' doors and were not popular. They are reputed to have been responsible for a number of accidents where the doors swung loose in transit, causing damage to passing trains. This particularly seems to have been due to their use as spoil and ballast wagons. In the early 1960's they were branded not to be used for this kind of traffic.
Information from 'Backtrack' article.
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Parkside's PS31 BR Diagram1/100 slope sided 16 ton steel mineral wagon was finished yesterday. Weathering was copied from a wagon photographed at Connah's Quay in North Wales. It was one of 2,690 sent to France in 1945 and was returned to Britain in 1950....

WEB 16T steel 16.jpg
This wagon retained its original pressed steel side doors and bottom doors. The characteristic ledge along the bottom of the sides was added during painting....
WEB 16T steel 17.jpg
 

LarryG

Western Thunderer
Pictures taken in daylight give the best impression of weathering, so these were taken this morning. Additional strips of Plastikard glued to this end to represent riveted strapping...
WEB 16T steel 21.jpg

Fake rivets added to the new strapping with a draughtsmans pen...
WEB 16T steel 23.jpg
WEB 16T steel 22.jpg
 
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LarryG

Western Thunderer
I waited several months for an O gauge GWR Toad, but OO's inexpensive rtr makes such things instantly obtainable. The original insignia was removed and the black patches increased in size to accommodate Croes Newydd. Weathering was mostly on the vertical strapping, ends and of course chassis and roof...
WEB Toad 28.jpg
 
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