JLTRT new build.

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I've just finished a County build and I thought that you may like to see some photos of it.
The backhead,
100 003.jpg

The loco body,
100 003.jpg

As this loco is going to be sound fitted I did some modifications to the tender to take the chip and speaker.
100 002.jpg

All of the main parts hanging out to dry,
100 005.jpg

I was going to add some more photos but I can't upload any more.

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Second go, something that I don't see very often on my test track a fully painted loco, this is Steve's 5099 Compton Castle that has come in for a new draw-bar to be fitted. Along with 1019 County of Merioneth, when she is finished the chances are she will be in mixed traffic black
100 017.jpg100 020.jpg100 026.jpg100 030.jpg

Starting work on the next builds, one full loco and two sets of new frames.
100 002.jpg
OzzyO.
 

alcazar

Guest
Great to see you again, you seem to have gone quiet on the other place?

What sort of tender has thick frames like those, I wonder? It looks like three or more laminations?
 

iploffy

OC Blue Brigade
OzzyO.Can you do an idiots guide to soldering the lamination's together please mate as its something I have never attempted before

Ian
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello Ian, all,

100 002.jpg

as the frames above are for three locos it shows both left and right frames but the way is about the same for any frames build.
1] drill the bearing holes to suit the bearings (do this even if your going to use sprung horn blocks), I'm going to use sprung horn blocks so I've only drilled the front and rear bearing holes.
2] Fit bearings (don't solder them) in the holes, add second set of frames and clamp them together.
3] On the frames above I think that I soldered them at the following points, top front, above the front bearings, half way between the front and middle bearings, above the middle bearings, half way between the middle and rear bearings, top rear of the frames, bottom rear corners, on the bottom edge with all of the bits in the way close to the front and rear edges of the horn guide cut-outs, if you can try and solder about half way between them as well, then bottom front corners.
4] Remove the bearings.
5] Cut off all the bits off the bottom of the frames that you don't want.
6] Clean up all of the edges.
7] If using sprung horn guides cut out the front and middle bearing plates. Leave the rear one in place for setting the wheel base.
8] Drill the holes for the brake pivot points, pick-ups Etc.
9] Un-solder the laminations apart (this can be fun NOT), if it's only two thickness I tend to use a soldering iron and a craft knife. For these I think that I'll use a blow torch to split them.
10] Debure all edges and holes and remove any solder from the faces of the plates.

The spring detail that I removed from the frames, to do this I used a reinforced cutting disc,
100 003.jpg

The frames after cleaning up the edges and before cutting out the bearing plates,
100 004.jpg

Sorry for the long post but I was asked,

OzzyO.
 

Compton castle

Western Thunderer
You do realise you've made me want a county even more than I did already. Seeing them stood next to each other does not make it any easier!! Just perfect for RB as well. Why you little @&£)(#%
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I've a few days off work together so I've decided to do a bit of modelling, the first job is the centre pivot for the bearing for Ranleagh Bridges TT. I'm using this drawing to get the basic dimensions,
copy of Ranleagh Bridge 10c.jpg

The first job was to turn the outside dias. and the basic lengths,
Pivot 001.jpg

After this it was drilling the pivot rod clearance hole and the recess for the top bearing,
Pivot 002.jpg

The next job was to reverse it and mount it in a collet chuck and turn a 12mm dia. spigot for mounting it in the baseboard, after this the recess for the bottom bearing was turned,
Pivot 003.jpg

The job before and after grit blasting,
Pivot 004.jpg

Pivot 005.jpg

It was then given a coat of black etching primer and the two bearings fitted,
Pivot 006.jpgPivot 007.jpg

The drive rod is a length of 3/16" silver steel that is now sitting in the freezer for about 3 hours at -10C (as a 3/16" rod will not fit into a 3/16" hole), fitting the rod will have to be done in one hit as when it warms up it will not want to come out of the bearings (that will have my ar$e twitching a bit).
The pivot should have six ribs running up between the base and the sides along with six bolts to hold it down, but as it's under the TT and in a deep pit I felt it would be OK to omit them.

For those that don't know the TT this is how it started out.
1a.JPG

and how it finished up,
267.jpg

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

as aside we are now thinking about adding the deep pit beams under the TT deck, as in this drawing.
Copy of Ranleagh Bridge 010.jpg

When you look at this photo, it looks like there's some sort of box mounted on the "side" What is it for? As it only appears on the one side as far as I can tell. Is it a grease point cover for the main bearings? If anyone has a clear photo of it I'd like to see it, PLEASE.
Copy of Ranleagh Bridge 1.jpg

This photo is not of R/B but shows the same type of TT from the other side without the box,
Copy of Ranleagh Bridge 003.jpg

If any one can show me a clear photo of what it is I'd love to see it, thanks.

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I got the pivot finished this morning and it will be in the post later today so Steve should have it tomorrow (Sat.)
The pivot with the drive shaft in place,
Pivot 008.jpg

The driving dog for under the TT deck,
Pivot 009.jpg

The finished job, I've left the top shaft a bit long so that Steve can fine tune the length to suit the depth of the pit,
Pivot 010.jpg

Time to start getting ready for work,

OzzyO.
 

OzzyO

Western Thunderer
Hello all,

I'm doing a bit of work on a loco to get it running OK, that bit is done and it run nicely. But the Slater's gearbox makes a lot of noise, any ideas what I should be looking for.

Thanks for any help

OzzyO.

PS. photos to follow.
 
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