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Discussion in 'WR Action' started by OzzyO, 15 June 2014.
Great work my friend
Beautiful work Ozzy..
Not sure I could warrant the time on tender brake gear, so hats off..!!
I'd rather spend the time on brake gear that can "just" be seen than something that can only be seen when it's only on shed.
After a fun half day out shopping I did manage to get a few hours in the workshop, the first job was to get all of the step treads in place. This is always a job that can take some time to get them all in the right place and lined up,
A bit of cleaning up required but this will be taken care of in the grit-blaster.
The next job was to clean out the bores of the buffer bodies, to do this I solder them to a length of 1/4" brass strip and drill them out,
Then it was soldering them in place on the buffer beam along with all the rest of the buffer beam details, it looks like I may have some work to do around some of the nuts on the buffer body bases.
The next fun packed part of the day was cleaning up the 24 parts for the axle box's and springs. This is a job that just takes a bit of time so some good music and chill out while doing it 24 times. Then it's deciding do I grit-blast the frames before fitting them or only after?
Lovely work as usual.
this could be a long post so get a brew or something stronger.
The last parts fitted to the outer frames, the axleboxs and springs. There are a few bits to be fitted after painting.
Getting the next parts for the body ready,
The fire iron support in place, this looks so much better than the Y shaped one that is supplied in some kits.
The lifting brackets fitted to the rear tank top, you have to plot the position for these.
Starting work on the coal hopper bottom. This is supplied over wide to take in to account for any tender with the tall footplate. From here on I'm only working on one tender until I can determine the hight of the Grange footplate.
The hopper bottom cut and filed to size on the left.
and in place, it is worth getting a nice fit at the front end.
The hopper rear soldered up and cleaned up.
But you are left with this, I'm not sure if this is due to me fitting the hopper rear to the rear of the sides, or if I should fit the hopper rear to the inside of the sides.
and filed in, it's not the best fit that I've done but it will be covered with coal,
Preparing the front of the tender by removing some rivets to help the fit of the small footplate steps.
The footplate steps in the flat and folded up,
after soldering up you may have to clean up the joint faces, the one on the left has had all of the faces cleaned up.
In place on the tender front. Along with the tread plates and water taps. Does anyone know for certain the position for these when in the open position?
getting close to finishing one of the tenders, the only bits to fit are castings. The first bits are the brake and scoop stations and the small brackets, one thing that I do to these is to extend them at the bottom using some 2.5mm tube. One thing that is a bit of a pain is having a tag in the small radius in the brackets.
and in place,
The tank vents in place.
I think that this photo "may" show why I like my grit-blaster, the one on the left will have a few more casting added to it and the work will stop on it as I want to check the footplate hight on it with the loco. The one on the right will be fully finished as this one is going behind a Castle and I do know the footplate hight for this one.
The last of the parts to be fitted to the tenders have been cleaned up, on one of them I'm using the Malcolm Mitchell etched tool boxes.
After this it's just a clean up in the grit-blaster and a good wash in the ultrasonic cleaner, then it's going to be a coat of etch primer.
PS. next week I should be starting on the engine, for one of the tenders.
thanks for all the likes. This is the loco that is going in front of one of the tenders.
I'm not sure about the smokebox header.
well I've made a start on 6869, but first I'll let you see 'my' etches! First the two sheets of N/S a lot of these won't be used for two reasons, some of them are for the three 4mm gauges and some of them will be replaced with by the S.D.K.
The first two sheets of the brass etches, most of these are for the upper works.
The third sheet of brass etches, boiler cab and a few other bits.
Getting ready to tack solder the two frames together, part one.
and part two.
The frames after tack soldering together.
After a bit of cleaning up and drilling a few holes and marking out a few more. OK who has nicked my springs?
In the above photo you can see some scribed lines that are on a radius from the axles centres these are to check for the plunger pick-ups (4mm Gibson ones) so only a 2.5mm hole. You can also make out a vertical line to the right of the brake hander pivots this is for the safety chain hangers. To do the above I cleaned up one set of wheels, before on the left.
PS. what else can I cut from the frames????
back to the tenders for this post, getting the position of the toolboxes marked out.
You can see the outlines of the toolboxes in this photo, I'm going to remove all of the rivet and bracket detail within these lines to make sure that the toolboxes sit down on the tank tops.
The front of the tenders with the toolboxes in place after grit-blasting.
Four photos showing the inner frames before and after grit-blasting.
The outer frames.
The main components for one tender.
And put together.
The grit blaster does an excellent job. What do you use (machine and grit)?
This is the grit-blaster that I use,
To give an idea of size the rule in the M/C is 12"
For grit I use aluminium oxide, I think it's about 120 grit. I got a large bag off Ebay.
and not too expencive according to Machine Mart.
(no i don't work for them)
It certainly does - I'll have to get one of those one day.
Nice work by the way Ozzy.
I think it was about £150 when I bought it, but then you have to have a compressor that will put out about ten cubic foot of air per minute as well so add on about another £150 (or about £80 if you can get one from Aldi).
after looking through my Hall photo I came across this one showing the second boiler mount in about the same position as the cover plate on 6869, so boiler No. C6204 could be a Hall boiler?
Most of the last days has been spent working on the horn-guides and blocks, you now get cast horn-blocks with them but I'm going to use the turned ones on the right.
The blocks blackened and nuts for the adjusting screws soldered in place.
The three main parts for one horn laid out.
All six of them assembled, it looks like I may have to do a bit more work to the two on the right.
The first of the horn gaps cut out before the two frames were split.
The two frames split and two more bearings fitted, I've still to drill the holes for the safety chains. After this I'll start work on the spacers.
starting work on the spacers, the spacers laid out in their approx. positions. S3 & S5 will be modified when their in the frames and S4 will not be used.
Checking that they all fit in place.
Tack soldered in position using 188Deg. S1 is not fitted just yet.
From the outside after cleaning the excess off. I don't tend to clean off the tags on spacers if they are on the tabs as these will come off when I take the tabs back to the frames.
Getting ready to fit the second frame in place using one of my alignment jigs.
The second frame in place using my alignment jig and two dummy axles.
The frames all soldered up and the footplate brackets soldered in place, most of these will have the centres removed later on.
The same from above rear, it looks like the frames are bent in this photo but their not honest.
S3 & S5 modified.
The next jobs for today are making up the coupling rods, then starting on the horn guides Etc.
as I mentioned in my last main post I was going to do the coupling rods and use them to check the wheel centres. As they come from the etched sheet, unfortunately these have a very large etch cusp on them so cleaning them up will take a bit of time.
All of them soldered together and in place on my frame jig that had been set up using the axle holes. The rods were spot on well done M.M. who drew the art work.
Getting the front horns ready for fitting, these need a bit cutting out of them to clear the brackets for the brake lever.
The half etched square is where the bracket fits on the frames.
Checking the hight of the front of the frames after the horns have been fitted,to hold the frames in place I use a 1Lb weight.
All of the horns fitted in place, all of the axleboxs will be removed and checked for movement and any tight spots sorted out along with any tags that need sorting out.
What to do today? Fit any parts that can't be fitted after the frame over-lays go on and a clean up.
this could be a bit of a long one so get a brew. Horn blocks out again and safety chain attachments added.
A close up of the attachments.
Getting ready to fit the retaining bars to the horn guides.
and in close up.
Some of the springs before grit blasting.
After grit blasting.
The front springs along with the brake arm brackets.
and removed from their sprue's
The rear springs in place for this I used 188Deg. solder.
The brake arm brackets in place.
Along with the brake arm, this was a bit short to fit in the brackets so I had drilled them out to 2.5mm and added some brass tube. They also needed a small amount removing from the face that the spring casting fits in front of.
The front springs in place along with the round front strengthening bar.
The main parts for the cylinders laid out. This is one area the does require a bit of work doing to it, as four holes need opening out and four need reducing. Along with the slots for the slide-bars.
All of the holes drilled out ready for some parts to be fitted, I've bent the rear of the cylinders to shape before fitting the reducing rings for the valve covers, it's just makes it easer to bend them to shape when the front and rears are still just flat bits of N/S.
The reducing rings in place in the rear of the cylinders, the nearest one having been filed flat to the face. I prefer to do it this way rather that try to turn them down to the correct step as my lathe only has 0.5mm steps on the main carriage handle and I've not got around to making a micrometer stop for it yet.
PS. good to see some of you at Cleck. on Sat.