7mm Turning resin into wood and other thingies GWR

John TAYLOR

Western Thunderer
Having given myself a severe talking to about not buying myself a RTR Pannier tank for Christmas (cos I`m not building another kit). My divertional therapy has been digging out and working on some very old resin building kits.

Tonight I`ve had a look at painting resin modelled timbers to look like old wood.

Now, the last time I painted with acrylics was way back in 1971. I thought about buying a Vallejo acrylic weathered wood painting set and did a bit of research on Youtube into the early hours yesterday and decided they were not suited to UK Railway woodwork colours.

So, this evening I chose Acrylic Titanium White, Ivory Black, Burnt Umber, and Lifecolor Dirty Black and came up with this result.........

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Why did I do this you ask ????

Well over the past two weeks worth of evenings I`ve been changing this......

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To this.........


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...and needed to paint the wooden loading bay structures which I completed this evening....

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And this is all because last month I upgraded this..........

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To this........

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Where is it all going to end ?????
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
Those are very effective weathered beams shown in your first photo. We have a few old exposed exterior oak lintels, and you have the color spot on.

Richard
 

GrahameH

Western Thunderer
I have followed this build elsewhere John and my comments still stand, some excellent work on the resin kit, bringing a bland surface to life.

Grahame
 

John TAYLOR

Western Thunderer
Thankyou all,

This years resolution is to get to grips with weathering skills and have started reading up and researching paints.... It`ll be enamels and powders for locos and rolling stock. Acrylics for buildings and csenery.... oh dear all the right letters but not the right order...still adding Disaronno to the fruit juice!!

Merry Christmas/Happy Birthday/Happy New Year...please delete as necessary.......:drool:

John
 

John TAYLOR

Western Thunderer
RE-OFFENDER

So......... I said I was`nt going to build another GWR loco kit ...several times........


But.... for £230 on ebay I could`nt resist a 1980`s complete (wheels and motor) Vulcan Model Engineering kit.

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And a lovely kit it has turned out to be. High quality white metal main body parts and a myriad of high quality whitemetal detailing packs...all of which are superior quality to some current lost wax parts available for us today I might add.

Ok... so it has`nt been completely perfect..... there was an etching glitch on one of the body cab side panels.... but nothing that could`nt be fixed.

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And some of the loco valances needed squaring up before assembly.....

The kit has beam compensation for the loco chassis which I followed despite a preference for sprung hornblocks starting the build with the coupling rods and using them as a jig for alignment.

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So instead, I started with the rods and checked these against the chassis etch using a sheet of graph paper and found that the coupling rods did not match the axle hornguide positions on the rear coupling rod halves..... enough to cause binding if not sorted.

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This was successfully sorted by drilling the rear rod crankpin holes 2.1mm dia with the front halves left at 2mm dia

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Anyhow.... I ended up with a sweet running basic chassis assembly.....

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...note the nice pre-milled hefty axle bearings for the beam assembly mechanism....

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...and the very thick fold up brass chassis block !!


This thickness caused me a problem with the loco footplate which consists of a sandwich of two parts.... a detailed overlay which is soldered on first and then the thicker under part has fold-up splasher sides..... well not for me... Even with scoring the etched fold lines...I could`nt get them to fold easily and the etched top overlay prevented them from being positioned vertically.....

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...so after bodging the first one I removed the splasher sides completely and soldered them in position individually.....


....Much better......

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only the smokebox casting needed a fair bit of fettling up as there was casting flash right around the sides...

The tender was a similar design but with no beams supplied...so I will use wire springing at some stage if needed.

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Apart from the challenge of soldering whitemetal body parts to brass the rest of the assembly was problem free and very enjoyable...

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....just the painting to commence... at some stage.....
 

John TAYLOR

Western Thunderer
Thanks Larry,

I`ve been after a Dean Goods for a very long time. Can`t afford the Masterpiece Models version so this one will do nicely.....
 

Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
Very nice, John - and built so speedily!

I built my Dean Goods from the kit by Vulcan Model Engineering 'in its time' ie a long time ago: completed July 1987, according to my records. I was still rather new to building from kits as I'd largely scratch-built before then; I was none too impressed with the contemporary kits available. It took me far longer to build - seven months - but I would make it take much longer today!

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Thanks for sharing your build with us.

David
 
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John TAYLOR

Western Thunderer
Thanks David,

Actually it has been your build photo also seen on the GOG forum some time ago that showed the potential in a Vulcan/Eric Underhill kit version, rather than the ABS/Zephyr version with resin parts (as built by Lascala) on RMWeb.

I managed to get a fairly quiet running (slightly better in one direction than the other) chassis despite the all brass gears in the kit. I`ve made it so that the drivers can be easily removed for painting so I might in future replace with an ABC M/gearbox.

John
 

Isambarduk

Western Thunderer
Thanks David,

Actually it has been your build photo also seen on the GOG forum ...

I managed to get a fairly quiet running ... chassis despite the all brass gears in the kit. I`ve made it so that the drivers can be easily removed for painting so I might in future replace with an ABC M/gearbox.

Ah, yes, I see. I'm glad that I was able to contribute with a bit of encouragement.

I would always build models so that they may be dismantled, if necessary, but it also greatly helps with the painitng to have sub-assemblies. Mine have not needed it so far but, from time to time, I have been asked to work on models on which everything has been soldered up, even the crankpin nuts; it doesn't make life easy!

On the ABC motor/gearbox, I am sure that is the right and proper modern way to go. As I explained on my webpage about my Dean Goods, once the steel worm on brass worm wheel had become tired after many circuits of a friend's extensive garden railway, I replaced them with a set from Ultrascale. The worm is made of Nylatron, so it's self-lubricating, and the combination is as 'quiet as you like'.

David
 

John TAYLOR

Western Thunderer
Well, I was going to make this one.....


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but it has now morphed into something completely different...……….



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Too late to revert as the platform is bedding in...……………..


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………..and the shed and its watering facilities will also soon be permanent...……………...

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By this coming weekend more of the landscaping will be done...….


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I think it will have more operating potential...………………………...
 

GrahameH

Western Thunderer
Keep morphing John !

Your original work combined with the time spent on the buildings will certainly pay dividends.

Lovely modelling as always.

Grahame
 

John TAYLOR

Western Thunderer
Trying a scenery idea I first saw at the Derby Museum and Art Gallery in the early 1970`s...………….

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...as a way of forcing perspective...…………..

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...the plan is to smooth it all off and then paint the background by hand...….


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...unfortunately Screwfix unable to supply more lightweight filler until Monday.... is railway modelling an essential activity I hear you ask ??? !!!
 
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