3D Printing & Painting

Cransford

Active Member
Having learnt a little more about the workings of Fusion 360, I've finally been able to print the signal box for my, hopefully soon to be built, layout of Gareochhead. Although in the first couple of iterations I had managed to achieve really fine window glazing bars, I realised they were likely going to cause issues when trying to assembly. I've thus resorted to a slightly overscale window thickness to include a slit to drop in 0.254mm clear glazing material. My first attempt resulted in slits that seemed heal themselves! So, gap widened slightly more, which seems to have cured the problem.

Signal Box B.jpg
Signal Box A.jpg

Photographs are a little brutal as I've only just started the cleaning up process! But, the next process will obviously be painting. I printed with Elegoo ABS like resin, and I would like to ask the assembled throng how best to paint. I've only looked at forums briefly and didn't notice anything. I would have assumed rattle can primer followed by acrylics, but am not sure on what paint will adhere to the resin.

Once I've done this, the station building will be next (building in four parts and roof in five!)

I look forward to the knowledge of the assembled throng with anticipation.

Paul
 

Cransford

Active Member
You don't have to use the plastic primers with resin prints, the normal ones work just as well. Halfords' Filler Primer is useful as it can hide a degree of stepping on the prints.

The plastic primers are probably more suited to FDM prints.
Mike,

Thanks for the clarification.

Paul
 

Giles

Western Thunderer
If it's a real nasty, or a gap, I always mix up a blob of Devcon epoxy (5 minute) and add a great pile of talcum powder into it, making it a thick paste. This trowels in, or can be used as an adhesive,. It dries quickly, and hard, and can then be filed back and sanded.
I now use no other..... as the saying goes.....
 

Stephen Freeman

Western Thunderer
I'd be very wary about using talculm powder in that way now I know where it comes from. It is very often found close to asbestos and has in the past allegedly been contaminated with it. Current stuff is reputedly safe though, just be careful what you use and how.
 

Marc Dobson

Western Thunderer
I'm having problems getting things to stick to my build plate. The PLA+ was sticking ok yesterday today nothing works any tips? I normally used print stick on the build plate
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
You might want to have a read through this for ideas.
Dave
 

Rob R

Western Thunderer
I'm having problems getting things to stick to my build plate. The PLA+ was sticking ok yesterday today nothing works any tips? I normally used print stick on the build plate
The build plate on my Neptune 4 pro regularly needs a good scrub with normal household soap and water to restore the bed adhesion - no particular brand.
 

Paul_H

Western Thunderer
I'm having problems getting things to stick to my build plate. The PLA+ was sticking ok yesterday today nothing works any tips? I normally used print stick on the build plate
Every time I've had an adhesion issue cleaning the plate solves it. A good sponge wash with ordinary Palmolive hand soap and water, carefully dry it with kitchen towel and NEVER touch it there after. Grease and dust are the adhesion killers.
I've never had to use glue stick after ditching my last Creality printer for a Bambu A1.
 
Top