7mm , Blackney, A Glimpse of the Forest

Alan

Western Thunderer
One of he problems I faced operating Blackney was the 3 link couplings, whilst occasionally I could couple or uncouple in a matter of seconds with a an un-coupler made of bent wire, sometimes it could take several minutes (or that's what it felt like) and it rather took the fun out of playing oops operating the layout. Then upon reading the good Capt's post in his Kernow Kontinum thread. about how he made a magnetic un-coupler with one of those tiny strong magnets. It was like the curtain had lifted. The only problem was that nearly all my stock has/had brass (ie non magnetic) 3links. I decide to make some as I had some 1mm iron wire.

First make a jig using one of the Parkside links basically 2 small panel pins in a piece of wood, one with the head cut off to be able to get the link off.





The wire was then bent round the first nail using fingers and pliers.





Then further wrapping with fingers but mainly pliers. until a loop had been formed.







Then slip off the jig and cut through the overlap leaving a single link.







Amazingly within a tad they are the same size as the Parkside ones.



Now to order the magnets and some brass tubing. I'll let you know how I get on.
 
Last edited by a moderator:

adrian

Flying Squad
One of he problems I faced operating Blackney was the 3 link couplings, ...
I decide to make some as I had some 1mm iron wire.

First make a jig using one of the Parkside links basically 2 small panel pins in a piece of wood, one with the head cut off to be able to get the link off.
I did something similar in making a jig for coupling links - however I reverted back to my jewellery course making chains. In this case I realised that the cheap pressed steel spanner that came with my B&D mini drill was the right size for the links. The edges needed a little dressing to round the corners off the spanner but then the process is to clamp the spanner and one end of the wire in a vice. The end of the spanner handle protruding allows you to wind the wire around the former several times. Once complete you can then squeeze the links around the former in the vice just to straighten the sides. Then slide the loops off the end of the handle and cut the links with either a razor saw or piercing saw.

There is far less waste this way - sort of more important consideration when making 50 - 60 link chains with solid silver wire!
coupling-links - 1.jpeg
 

simond

Western Thunderer
There might be something to be said for slitting the former/spanner handle, and sawing through the links whilst they’re still on it? It’s probably easier to hold them.

Atb
Simon
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
That’s exactly how I make coupling links, Adrian - though in 4mm I can get away with fuse wire so waste is less critical. Of course with copper wire you can cut them with a Stanley knife.

Adam
 

Richard

Active Member
If you only fit the steel link to the end of the chain you don't risk picking up the first or middle link with the magnet. Guess how I know that?
 

Alan

Western Thunderer
As promised an update on the magnetic coupler/un-coupler for 3 link couplings.



Firstly I must thank Tim (Captain Kernow) for the idea.



The magnets, (actually that is a bit of 1mm iron) I had already made the couplers but that is the length of 4 yes FOUR magnets,





2 were the broken off and super glued into a 1mm internal diameter piece of brass tube, flush with the end. The other end of of the tube had a length of 1mm brass wire super glued into it.





Finally the wire was attached to the pen torch. As I had three I made two magnetic couplers (gold) and one wire one (silver) for use with the coach.







And finally in action.







It works a treat.
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
I reckon it might be quite effective in 7mm - I couldn’t get on with magnetic links in 4mm: the links just weren’t happy to let go... the extra weight of 0 Gauge stock and the larger hook size should sort that.

Adam
 

Alan

Western Thunderer
BUT what a difference the new magnetic shunters poles have made in playing (whoops operating the layout), it is now so much easier. I have also been adjusting the sector plate to make a much smoother entrance from the loop, all of a sudden no derailments. I also had a go at the barrel bolts which lock the sector plate in position, so that now there is a at least a 99% chance of electricity flowing and locos moving. So much so that when I go into the railway room something is moved or shunted.

Today it was the afternoon coal train.

8749 has been up to the colliery and brought down 4 loaded wagons9 yes I have made a 4th removable coal load, and shunted itself back to the front of the train and moves off back to the mainline at Bullo Pill.











 

John Duffy

Western Thunderer
[URL='https://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_2021_03/2096447738_pmcoal4.jpg.5b5a42a6174bf631d36ef3cc0778cec6.jpg' said:
2096447738_pmcoal4.jpg.5b5a42a6174bf631d36ef3cc0778cec6.jpg
[/URL]

This photo is excellent.
 
Top