A history lesson?

[Nick Dunhill]

Nick Hi sorry to jump in on your Historical thread which is most enlightening BTW.
This subject is exactly the problem I have with my first ever scratch build. The rods ran out of sync as I had opened up the coupling rod bearing holes too much to get over tight spots! Built in lockdown with no jig or anything just by eye!
Roll on 5 years I keep coming back to it for some reason! Holes lined with K&S tube reamed out exactly as you described above. Then the rods stacked together and drilled under size. Reamed to size but in the jig we are 0.2mm out!
scrap and start again?

0.2 mm doesnt sound too disasterous. Perhaps it's time to move your wheel bearings to suit the rods? Is the chassis rigid or compensated?

 

[Eastsidepilot]

...but back to the OP, I have often been asked to 'revamp' a dinosaur loco and to my mind it's not always worth it, just junk the mechanicals and build new which put people off by the costs.
The only one I did do was to re-profile the wheels on an elderly clockwork loco so the the flanges didn't foul the chairs on it's outdoor track, but I ended up doing a full mechanical resto job !

 

[Eastsidepilot]

0.2 mm doesnt sound too disasterous. Perhaps it's time to move your wheel bearings to suit the rods? Is the chassis rigid or compensated?

...and are the crank throws of the wheels all the same ?, exactly !

 

[Allen M]

Firing up the Guzzi may be possible (subject to care home rules) getting your leg over may create a pain in the hip and knee replacement department.

Which is why I sold my BMW R45 a few years ago.
Allen

 

[40057]

I'll have to refer that question to Warren H.

Hi Nick

Thank you, but don’t trouble yourself to contact Warren.

The loco I have to be painted (built by Tom Mallard) is now going to Warren anyway. So the colour can be checked direct.

I will just add that I think the evidence strongly suggests that the BR blue is the same shade as the later colour (post c. 1906) used by the Caledonian Railway.

Martin

 

[AdeMoore]

0.2 mm doesnt sound too disasterous. Perhaps it's time to move your wheel bearings to suit the rods? Is the chassis rigid or compensated?

Thanks Nick Compensated but with ideas as a it’s a 0-4-0 I may go rigid as others have suggested previously to me. The horn blocks currently float with no guides yet. That was the next thing in my mind, put it in a jig get the rods on solder up the hornblock guides where they need to be!

 

[AdeMoore]

...and are the crank throws of the wheels all the same ?, exactly !

Colin thanks, I presume so Masokit wheels from probably 20 years ago, held in storage until I started this in 2018 I think!

 

[Nick Dunhill]

The Buhler V8 has finally been laid to rest. Today I fitted a Slater's GB30R-4M gauge 1 motor/gearbox to the 02 above. The gearbox is the same as their bigger O gauge items with the axle bearings and final drive gear bored out to 1/4'' to suit gauge 1 axles. It has a Canon EN22 motor which is common in O gauge, and fitted inside the body. I sleeved out the gearbox and final drive gear with K&S 1/4'' OD and 7/32'' ID brass tube. It was a perfect interference fit in the bearings, and with the provision of a new gearbox mount the model runs perfectly and now has the humph lacking from the wheezy old Buhler.

All is well.