7mm Buckjumper's Workbench - Latest: GCR D8 open wagons

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
D'you know what, after all this time on here I've not started a workbench thread. So here we go.

I've always got more than one job on the go at any time; work tends to grind to a halt when I realise various bits in a kit are completely useless, and sometimes, like at present, parts I sent for weeks ago have yet to turn up, so I start something else off. It's also handy when paint is curing to be able to get on with something else, and sometimes when a build is causing me to tear my hair out it's a psychological antidote to work on something completely different.

So all of that is to prepare you for the fact that this thread is going to be all over the place - don't expect a nice neat chronology cos that's not how I work.

And feel free to hijack the thread as much as you like, it's not precious... mi casa es su casa and all that jazz.

One current commission is to build a pair of ex-Manchester, Sheffield & Lincolnshire 3-plank dropside wagons to Diagram 6 wagons in the Great Central livery circa 1910-12 using the S&T Wagon Works resin bodied kits. These come with whitemetal axleguard/axleboxes, buffer housings, vee hangers, brass buffer heads, etched brass coupling hooks, and steel links.

gc_parts.jpg

I'll be adding to this 3' 1" split spoke wheels from Slaters, replacement brass cast coupling hooks from the same source to replace thin etched efforts, WEP compensation units (resin can be a bit flexible, so I never build such wagons solid and the commission doesn't call for sprung units), replacement sprung buffers from Haywood as I hate brass buffer heads, GC goods wagon paint from Precision, and GC transfers from POWsides.

gc_parts.jpg

Very little flash exists on the resin body which has been moulded by CMA, just a little under the curb rail which is easily removed. I'm still (weeks later) waiting for the ruddy buffers from Haywoods so I'll not open out the buffer holes in the headstocks quite yet and I'll leave the slot for the hooks for now too. To remove any grease and release agent from the mouldings I gave the bodies a quick scrub with Barkeepers Friend and a vibrating toothbrush. These are often half price in the local supermarkets, and last for ages. Why use a second hand toothbrush to clean your models if they're not in a good enough condition to clean your teeth?

gc_cleaned.jpg

Axleguards, or w-irons in modeller's parlance - only a little flash was present which was quickly removed with a blade and old file kept specifically for whitemetal. The pattern maker really had his brain plugged in for this as he's not only marked the centre line on the underside of the body, but also the position of the axles. Pattern makers take note! This speeds things up no end and leaves no margin for error.

gc_axleguards.jpg

Some Araldite Rapid was mixed up and the axleguards fitted and set aside for 24 hours to cure.
 

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
I reckon you have hijacked this thread from somewhere else.... ;)

or at least the content!:thumbs:

There are, and will continue to be differences - sometimes significant, sometimes less so. Besides which... it's not really practical to build and then write up one for here and one for there is it? :D
 

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
What is the name for "Shelf Queens" in Basilica Fields the East End of London? ;)

I believe the collective noun is procrastination of shelf queens.

BF shelf queens are documented elsewhere, but commissions, no matter how many are on the go, all remain 'live' and off the shelf.
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
D'you know what, after all this time on here I've not started a workbench thread. So here we go.

I've always got more than one job on the go at any time; work tends to grind to a halt when I realise various bits in a kit are completely useless, and sometimes, like at present, parts I sent for weeks ago have yet to turn up, so I start something else off. It's also handy when paint is curing to be able to get on with something else, and sometimes when a build is causing me to tear my hair out it's a psychological antidote to work on something completely different.

So all of that is to prepare you for the fact that this thread is going to be all over the place - don't expect a nice neat chronology cos that's not how I work.

And feel free to hijack the thread as much as you like, it's not precious... mi casa es su casa and all that jazz.

One current commission is to build a pair of ex-Manchester, Sheffield & Lincolnshire 3-plank dropside wagons to Diagram 6 wagons in the Great Central livery circa 1910-12 using the S&T Wagon Works resin bodied kits. These come with whitemetal axleguard/axleboxes, buffer housings, vee hangers, brass buffer heads, etched brass coupling hooks, and steel links.

View attachment 12183

I'll be adding to this 3' 1" split spoke wheels from Slaters, replacement brass cast coupling hooks from the same source to replace thin etched efforts, WEP compensation units (resin can be a bit flexible, so I never build such wagons solid and the commission doesn't call for sprung units), replacement sprung buffers from Haywood as I hate brass buffer heads, GC goods wagon paint from Precision, and GC transfers from POWsides.

Compliments on your choice of vehicle 'young' Adrian!!. One word of caution....or two !, The shade of wagon grey offered by precision was I found far too dark. I usually use Humbrol 27, lightened slighty . I would also recommend trying to get a set of Dragon models transfers, as the powsides ones are far too skinny.
View attachment 12183

Very little flash exists on the resin body which has been moulded by CMA, just a little under the curb rail which is easily removed. I'm still (weeks later) waiting for the ruddy buffers from Haywoods so I'll not open out the buffer holes in the headstocks quite yet and I'll leave the slot for the hooks for now too. To remove any grease and release agent from the mouldings I gave the bodies a quick scrub with Barkeepers Friend and a vibrating toothbrush. These are often half price in the local supermarkets, and last for ages. Why use a second hand toothbrush to clean your models if they're not in a good enough condition to clean your teeth?

View attachment 12184

Axleguards, or w-irons in modeller's parlance - only a little flash was present which was quickly removed with a blade and old file kept specifically for whitemetal. The pattern maker really had his brain plugged in for this as he's not only marked the centre line on the underside of the body, but also the position of the axles. Pattern makers take note! This speeds things up no end and leaves no margin for error.

Glad you appreciate the moulded in axle and wagon centrelines!. An alternative method of compensating these wagons appeared in the 'toddler' for may 2007....should anyone be interested !.
View attachment 12185

Some Araldite Rapid was mixed up and the axleguards fitted and set aside for 24 hours to cure.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I believe the collective noun is procrastination of shelf queens. BF shelf queens are documented elsewhere, but commissions, no matter how many are on the go, all remain 'live' and off the shelf.

There are, and will continue to be differences - sometimes significant, sometimes less so. Besides which... it's not really practical to build and then write up one for here and one for there is it? :D

My, my, we are being pinickity about such things! Good to see that WT brings out the best in all of us ;)

I shall enjoy the building of the GCR open.... I have one or two here so your progress might be the necessary kick-start.

regards, Graham
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
....and here's one we made earlier!!...sorry Adrian !, Also a photo of 'my' prefered method of compensation using D&S parts.
Cheers Tony.
 

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Eastsidepilot

Western Thunderer
D'you know what, after all this time on here I've not started a workbench thread. So here we go.

I've always got more than one job on the go at any time; work tends to grind to a halt when I realise various bits in a kit are completely useless, and sometimes, like at present, parts I sent for weeks ago have yet to turn up, so I start something else off. It's also handy when paint is curing to be able to get on with something else, and sometimes when a build is causing me to tear my hair out it's a psychological antidote to work on something completely different..............
./quote]

Well about time matey!............Hah tell me about it, I've lost count with what's on my bench, at least you've got some hair left Ade :))

ATB, Col.:D
 

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
....and here's one we made earlier!!...sorry Adrian !, Also a photo of 'my' prefered method of compensation using D&S parts.
Cheers Tony.

No sorry's allowed :D post up as much as you like - the more the merrier!

Lovely finish on that Tony - is that a Bill Bedford 2-plank in the background?
 

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
My, my, we are being pinickity about such things! Good to see that WT brings out the best in all of us ;)

at least you've got some hair left Ade :))

After the last 48 hours it's lucky I have any hair left. The kids gave me the flu last week and since that cleared up I've had a hacking cough. On Wednesday, while in the middle of a coughing fit something went ping where I have an epigastric hernia - I'd equate the feeling to when my appendix perforated. After being hummed and haahed over and prodded (then scraped off the ceiling) by the GP yesterday it was decided not to send me off to A&E but dose me up to see how it progressed.

It's eased off a bit this morning, so I'll continue to be grumpy but with a smile instead of a snarl... :p
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
Right then I mentioned the 'too skinny' style of lettering by powsides...this did occur...but only on hired/ex hire coal wagons when they were painted at the builders/hirers. Sometimes the positioning of the letters was a little 'off', one of mine is based on a photo showing just that !, anyway the photo should explain all.
Also Ive included a shot of a D30 ballast wagon, adapted from the standard 3 plk.....still awaiting someone to producing the transfers needed to complete it ......
Cheers Tony.
 

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Buckjumper

Flying Squad
MS&LR transfers...yes. Oops. Must do. :oops:

Graham, a.k.a.Dog Star (re)sent me some info on the GC 3 plank wagons earlier (which he sent a couple of years ago and which I think is the info on the GC e-group), this suggests that the Diagram 6 wagons can be backdated to earlier types by the provision of brake on one side only.

Diagram 2 had a timber solebar similar to diagram 6, but diagrams 3 & 4 had iron flitch plates.

Does this mean some of the iron work such as the crown plates would need to be omitted in a Dia.3 or 4 conversion - see Tatlow pp 103, 106 (CLC iron underframe) and 166 (dia.153 ballast), with nuts/bolts added instead?

What about Dia.2?

Edited for me being thick.
 

Buckjumper

Flying Squad
The shade of wagon grey offered by precision was I found far too dark. I usually use Humbrol 27, lightened slighty

Thanks for the warning. I do like the base colour you've achieved so will use a brew based on H.27 instead.

I would also recommend trying to get a set of Dragon models transfers, as the powsides ones are far too skinny.

Oh that's a pain as Chris Basten has stopped production of his transfers (production costs more than doubling over the last 18 months making it non-viable) and he's out of stock of the GC lettering. I managed to get enough GN carriage monograms for my future rake of 4-wheelers though...phew!

Looks like I'll be using the Powsides transfers and then putting my Mr. Arty hat on to fatten them up with a pot of white and an 000 brush. :(
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
MS&LR transfers...yes. Oops. Must do. :oops:

Graham, a.k.a.Dog Star (re)sent me some info on the GC 3 plank wagons earlier (which he sent a couple of years ago and which I think is the info on the GC e-group), this suggests that the Diagram 6 wagons can be backdated to earlier types by the provision of brake on one side only.

Diagram 2 had a timber solebar similar to diagram 6, but diagrams 3 & 4 had iron flitch plates.

Does this mean some of the iron work such as the crown plates would need to be omitted in a Dia.3 or 4 conversion - see Tatlow pp 103, 106 (CLC iron underframe) and 166 (dia.153 ballast), with nuts/bolts added instead?

What about Dia.2?

Edited for me being thick.
GC e group ?....a fine group !!, I should know I started it !!!.
As to back dating ...yes ...but !, the same basic body was used for the D3 onwards. The D2 had , according to Mr T's book fixed sides, some having 'central doors'!.
So yes as per the CLC version in Mr T's book.
The fun really begins with the brake gear, early Diagrams such as the D3 probably had a single wooden brake block, as per the photo at the bottom of page 109...and remained this way into the 1900's. Whilst D4 onwards had the luxury of cast iron brakes on one side only with first a single lever, then the addition of a left handed lever on t'other side and some being latterly fitted with a drop link type lever to comply with BOT regs !...but then you probably already know this !.
Please dont ask for running numbers....nearly all the GCR wagon registers were destroyed in the blitz.
Thanks for the reminder on the MSL transfers !!!....though I wasnt refering to them . Yes its a pain with Chris B, approaches were being made to the HMRS....just as they ran out of paper!!
Cheers Tony.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Yes its a pain with Chris B, approaches were being made to the HMRS....just as they ran out of paper!!
Cheers Tony.

suggest that you try again Tony as they have been 'experimenting' with samples from India I believe

cheers

Mike
 

Tony West

Western Thunderer
suggest that you try again Tony as they have been 'experimenting' with samples from India I believe

cheers

Mike
If only it was so simple !...since Xmas I havent even managed to get an acknowledgement to my emails from their transfer developement officer. Even hmrs members are unhappy at the attitude of their officers.
Cheers Tony.
 
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