Building the JLTRT Rebuilt Royal Scot

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Firstly, I've cleaned up those overlays with Viakal and it's worked perfectly. Thank you Ian! No photos of these yet, but they will follow.

Using all the info and suggestions provided I've built up and soldered the bogie together. It looks pretty good to me.

Top side:

IMG_20200918_162335555.jpg

Upside down.

IMG_20200918_162407012.jpg

And fitted to the (as yet without the overlays) frames.

IMG_20200918_163313705.jpg IMG_20200918_163332005.jpg

As everything so far has resolved I'm not going to stress about this yet, but I'll be checking the clearances against the adjacent frame spacer at every opportunity throughout the remainder of the chassis build.

IMG_20200918_163404779.jpg

Thanks to all who have helped me get this far. Mojo is largely restored.

Brian
 

Focalplane

Western Thunderer
Brian

I am catching up with several threads now I am back at the railway room with house attached (after 9 months!) and this one is most fascinating. I too remember Scots on the WCML at Tamworth, and the comment that they performed well with heavy loads is very true.

Keep it going! Paul
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the comment, Paul.

Not a great deal to report. I tried using the Mitchell hornguides but found the instructions confusing and can't get on with them. I have a set of Finney7 hornguides now and will use those instead.

In the meantime I've built the basics of the cab - photos herewith. Seats etc are installed but further detailing is to follow. There's still more to do to finish it but all fits well. I'm intending to use the etched roof rather than the cast one - a choice is included in the kit.

IMG_20200930_165306837.jpg IMG_20200930_165336359.jpg

Brian
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Thanks for the comment, Paul.

Not a great deal to report. I tried using the Mitchell hornguides but found the instructions confusing and can't get on with them. I have a set of Finney7 hornguides now and will use those instead.

In the meantime I've built the basics of the cab - photos herewith. Seats etc are installed but further detailing is to follow. There's still more to do to finish it but all fits well. I'm intending to use the etched roof rather than the cast one - a choice is included in the kit.

View attachment 130806 View attachment 130807

Brian

Hi Brian,

I used the etchings too. The resin roof would save quite a lot of quite tricky bending and fitting but attaching it permanently to the quite delicate cab sides could be problematic. Solder just doesn’t work on resin!

Ian.
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
That's good to know, Ian. I tried the cast roof but mine was a bit too flat in profile. It would probably have sorted itself out with a bit of judicious heating in a water bath but the etched roof looks so much finer. Those cab sides are indeed quite delicate and I've yet to fit the beading and handrails!

I'm interested to know whether you used the Mitchell horn guides. I suspect I've simply failed to understand the Mitchell hornguide instructions. There must be many people who've used them successfully so I suspect that any issue really is down to me.

Brian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
From one of the few solder free men that is praise indeed.

Funnily enough, Mick, I have one of those in the stash. Having given mine up for Finney7 research I'll be able to start work on it once those castings are completed. That all seems quite close now.:)

Brian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Just as an update - there's been no progress since my last post as there's been some garden work going on. Unfortunately our contractor didn't do the greatest job and was sent home on Friday. We'll be dealing with the shortcomings for a while yet. I'll put more on here as soon as I can spend some time in the workshop.

Brian
 

Rob Pulham

Western Thunderer
I will need to bookmark this thread Brian, as it looks like Santa is bringing me one of these this year. When it surfaces it will be The Duke of Wellington Regiment (West Ridning).
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Blimey! It's over a year since I last spent significant time in the work shop. That's mainly down to the importance of completing as many as possible of Tim's photos. Sadly, now, there's no urgency attached to that project. It'll continue in it's own good time.

I've now spent a couple of days catching up with the Royal Scot project in the workshop. I'm starting work again on the chassis which brings up a call on the time of WT members.

I've been lucky enough to secure a set of AGH wheels for this project. I'm about to start fitting the driving wheels to the chassis and as I've never used AGH wheels previously will appreciate advice about how to remove the taper pin. I suspect the trick is to support the axle on a wooden support and knock the pin out with a hammer.

I've looked this up on line but haven't found a helpful description of the process but I know it'll be available here.

Brian
 

Cliff Williams

Western Thunderer
Brian it should not be that tight, try and work out the taper direction, hold the axle in your hand and give the taper a gentle tap.
I have been known to use the centre of a pair of pliers before, the pin will drop out and gently pull the wheels apart.
Best advice is do one at a time, pop a small bit of oil in there once separated.

If they do not separate then soak some oil in there for a bit.

Cliff
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
Brian,

I have a bit of 6 mm rod with a hole drilled in the middle which goes in the vice to support the axle while I tap the pin out with a small hammer. A piece of brass tube would do the same job. It’s worth putting a dab of paint on the thick end of the taper pin to identify it too.

Sometimes if the wheels have been sitting a while the telescopic axles seize up. Thin oil helps but sometimes you need to apply a bit of heat. The last lot I used, my Auld Bogie, it took quite a bit of heat from a soldering iron to get them free. Well oiled before reassembling! The wheels that was!

Ian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Cliff and Ian.

Both suggestions gratefully received. I must admit to trying to hold the pin in pliers and applying some pushing/twisting force was my initial approach. As it was unsuccessful I came here! I'd not thought about the possibility of the axles or pin seizing up so your thoughts in this direction are particularly helpful, Ian.

Does anyone know of the whereabouts of the original Alan Harris documentation/instructions? It'd be helpful to have a reference point and the original documentation wasn't with the wheels when I bought them.

Brian
 

oldravendale

Western Thunderer
Thanks so much, Ian. That's exactly what I need to understand the system and set up.

I'll now proceed with a great deal more confidence.

Brian
 
Blimey! It's over a year since I last spent significant time in the work shop. That's mainly down to the importance of completing as many as possible of Tim's photos. Sadly, now, there's no urgency attached to that project. It'll continue in it's own good time.

I've now spent a couple of days catching up with the Royal Scot project in the workshop. I'm starting work again on the chassis which brings up a call on the time of WT members.

I've been lucky enough to secure a set of AGH wheels for this project. I'm about to start fitting the driving wheels to the chassis and as I've never used AGH wheels previously will appreciate advice about how to remove the taper pin. I suspect the trick is to support the axle on a wooden support and knock the pin out with a hammer.

I've looked this up on line but haven't found a helpful description of the process but I know it'll be available here.

Brian
Brian, for those who yearn for A Harris wheels but can't get them, can I recommend wheel castings from Mark Wood. I machined up a set of wheels for my Star Class and an experienced S7 builder asked if they were by AH. Great castings. He is a trader on the Guild web site.
Phil.
 
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