Crymlyn A Shop Techniques. Agenoria 10/7 Avonside 2195 CWM MAWR

davey4270

Western Thunderer
Chemical blacking can be very effective, using a fibre glass brush to then bring back the bright metal as required.

Tim

Hi Tim.
I use this on my wheels which have steel tyres and when I can run them on a local test track the wheel treads actually become steel. This effect must be like the prototype where the bits in contact with the rail stay shiny. Unfortunately the crossheads are cast brass and the wrong colour. Is this what you mean?
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
2195 CWM MAWR is all ready for its duties. Dai Larfin, the Crymlyn A Shop stores person, has sourced a supply of lamps and the fly shunting rope is stored on the front footplate. A hot running coupling rod bearing has been machined by new subcontractor Martin Blackwell. Unfortunately the new crew have still not been passed out by the foreman.

IMG_2740.jpg
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
63. The Final touches.

The Crymlyn A Shop foreman has finally passed out the new crew but has insisted on them having a rather severe haircut, perhaps it will grow in time. Lamps have been supplied by Dai Larfin in the stores as well as a fly shunting rope. Dai the Paint has applied the buffer plank numbers although a visit to the local moonshine establishment at lunch time took its toll in the afternoon when he applied the numbers to the front plank!
And so ladies and gentlemen, there we have it. Lockdown locomotive number 2. Come on Boris and drakeford , get your act together, I want to see it doing some work!

2195 CWM MAWR - YouTube
 

Ian Rathbone

Western Thunderer
GW colour details - the only item within the cab that was painted red was the regulator lever, nothing else, and it was Venetian Red (aka red oxide) not bright red. Inside the main frames between fire box and smoke box, including motion bracket and other cross members was also Venetian Red. Cross heads, being cast iron, were painted black so there is no need to try to match the connecting rod. All non-wearing surfaces of the cross head guides and supports were also painted black. Buffer planks and housings were painted China (Chinese) Red, not vermilion. China Red is quite a dull colour but its main advantage is that it covers in one coat over a light grey or red oxide undercoat. I make it from equal parts of Humbrol Bright Red (21), Humbrol Tan (9) and LMS Crimson Lake (or Humbrol Maroon). The buffer shanks and back of the heads were painted black.

For rods which aren’t going to be weathered I thoroughly clean them with a fibreglass brush and then rub them with a cotton bud soaked in chemical blacking. Once dark enough and dry I very gently pull the fb brush over them at an angle until the rods take on a steel-like sheen. For brass brightwork I paint with very dilute black which dulls the brass to a more realistic sheen but also settles in the valleys to emphasise the relief. I leave bright copper unvarnished to tarnish naturally.

I hope this is useful.

(When does Hercules get its numbers?)

Ian R
 

davey4270

Western Thunderer
GW colour details - the only item within the cab that was painted red was the regulator lever, nothing else, and it was Venetian Red (aka red oxide) not bright red. Inside the main frames between fire box and smoke box, including motion bracket and other cross members was also Venetian Red. Cross heads, being cast iron, were painted black so there is no need to try to match the connecting rod. All non-wearing surfaces of the cross head guides and supports were also painted black. Buffer planks and housings were painted China (Chinese) Red, not vermilion. China Red is quite a dull colour but its main advantage is that it covers in one coat over a light grey or red oxide undercoat. I make it from equal parts of Humbrol Bright Red (21), Humbrol Tan (9) and LMS Crimson Lake (or Humbrol Maroon). The buffer shanks and back of the heads were painted black.

For rods which aren’t going to be weathered I thoroughly clean them with a fibreglass brush and then rub them with a cotton bud soaked in chemical blacking. Once dark enough and dry I very gently pull the fb brush over them at an angle until the rods take on a steel-like sheen. For brass brightwork I paint with very dilute black which dulls the brass to a more realistic sheen but also settles in the valleys to emphasise the relief. I leave bright copper unvarnished to tarnish naturally.

I hope this is useful.

(When does Hercules get its numbers?)

Ian R
Thank you Ian. Hercules is still waiting .
 
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