Johns LNWR gallery

Mike W

Western Thunderer
My footplating is done the same way as yours John. My splashers are cast, but the plates at each end lap over he etched flat part of the plate, the separate parts of which are held together with a sacrificial strip which is cut off after assembly. I still think your kit was quite advanced for its day. But my engine has one big difference to yours!
Venture cab.jpg
Mike
 

Mike W

Western Thunderer
Don't wish to be critical John, but I would ditch the dome casting. The rest of the kit looks OK, but a Laurie Griffin dome would make a big difference even though it is horrendously expensive.

Mike
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
Don't wish to be critical John, but I would ditch the dome casting. The rest of the kit looks OK, but a Laurie Griffin dome would make a big difference even though it is horrendously expensive.

Mike
Hi Mike
Im going to replace all of thr casting, ive Just put them on there for effect
John
 

Kevin MH

Active Member
John,

Did you write that the frames folded up to be just right for Scale 7? Because my current production Cauliflower has similar frames, but I need to run it on 7mm Scale, and tight radius to boot.

Kevin
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
John,

Did you write that the frames folded up to be just right for Scale 7? Because my current production Cauliflower has similar frames, but I need to run it on 7mm Scale, and tight radius to boot.

Kevin
Hi Kevin what are the measurements for O guage frames
John
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
Hi I know that a couple of you have one of these to make. One of the awkward bits (for me at least) is the running plate, as its made of several bits and keeping the whole thing straight and Square is a trial. I made one side, with the splashers on but the found it difficult to fill the joints. So the next one I took the splashers off so that I could get solder onto the joints and rub them down. I hope that makes sense
John IMG_20210417_180437.jpg
 

Kevin MH

Active Member
Honestly, I'm surprised the sweeps don't unsolder from the first joint as you are trying to solder up the second joint.
 

paulc

Western Thunderer
Hi I know that a couple of you have one of these to make. One of the awkward bits (for me at least) is the running plate, as its made of several bits and keeping the whole thing straight and Square is a trial. I made one side, with the splashers on but the found it difficult to fill the joints. So the next one I took the splashers off so that I could get solder onto the joints and rub them down. I hope that makes sense
John View attachment 141907
Hi John , when i made the running plate for my scratchbuilt Precursor it was made out of a piece of brass wide enough for both sides plus a bit of extra . Then after marking out roll all three curves , after you have thrown two or three away you finally get one thats correct . It is then just a case of cutting down the middle and filing back to get the width you need and then cutting out for the wheels etc . You now have two halves that are are identical and it is an easy case to solder the splashers and the joining pieces to create a whole footplate .
Hope that makes sense .
Cheers Paul
 

Ian@StEnochs

Western Thunderer
John,

When I made my wavy footplates I shaped each side individually and cut out the spaces for the wheels after forming. Easy to do on a scratchbuild but if I was building a kit I might just try cutting the footplate in two and rejoin them once shaped!

Ian.724E3EEE-7EA8-4C01-8BC1-CEEE7D92204B.jpeg
 

john lewsey

Western Thunderer
Hi chaps
Thank you for your comments, I am hoping to make a reasonable job of the kit as it comes, with added detail. If I cant make the running plate look ok ill give your ideas a try. Lovely work on your loco Ian
John
 
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