Lightening the load

simond

Western Thunderer
I defer to both of you, you’ve both got far more experience in this domain than I, but…

And I do get the concerns about a “front of stage” model being vulnerable, and I definitely understand the issue of cost for a brass version. I’m less convinced about the mixed media argument, given a bit of “design for the extremes to which it will be subject”. I doubt -40 will be an issue in Essex in the next century or two…

If were modelling the barge laden or semi-laden, I think my approach would be to shape a piece of wood, say 10mm or so thick, to form an internal base, into which I would cut the chamfers for the swims, and slots for the ribs. This forms a rigid and solid foundation, onto which I would mount laser cut the ribs, decks, coamings, etc, from nice card, and glue it all together with PVA. I suspect I’d use thin card or paper overlays over a thick paper skin, to represent the panels, it would be easier to emboss rivets on them, then stick them on. The real thing was built from a material that sagged and stretched. Card strip for bulwark edges etc. I love the “hungry horse” look, with the ribs showing through, that you got in the mock up.

I guess a coating of sanding sealer or shellac, or even diluted PVA, would then protect it from the elements?

upload_2021-11-17_7-59-12.jpeg

Gratuitous pic of my puffer, Olive, named after my late, lamented MiL. All card, including the windlass, though the mast & boom were knitting needles. I built it some 12 years back, and it’s still waiting for the engine room ventilators, guy ropes for the funnel, binnacle, wheel & Nav lights.

I did improve on the dinghy, however. (And that, too, is card)

Atb
Simon
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thank you Michael and Simon for your replies. I do hope I have not offended you (or anyone else either?) with my ranting response.

Oh dear, perhaps I really should have taken more notice of my wife after all - but instead, there I was, sitting at my laptop in full blown waffle mode last night, desperately trying to convince myself (and others too) that I was anything but a complete idiot!!

Pete.
 

Pencarrow

Western Thunderer
Hi Pete, I for one enjoy your waffly posts, very enjoyable. Gives an insight to how you think projects through. Over the years you've given me lots of ideas and have been inspiration for upping my game. I particularly enjoy seeing how some of your more left field ideas turn out!

I don't think anyone is offended and it's a key strength of WT that we can have constructive discussion on how to build stuff. I also think there's no single right way of making a model, particularly a scratch built one.

Give 10 modellers the same object to scratch build and I guarantee you'll get 10 different approaches and results. Some will be better than others no doubt but the most important thing is being happy with your approach and enjoying the build.

We're all wired differently and have different skill sets. I definitely appreciate input on my threads and challenges to the approach I'm taking. Makes you think, sometimes about something you've overlooked, and almost always you're better off for it - either with a better approach or confidence in the approach you've chosen.

I too would build the vessel in plasticard as it's the material I'm happiest working in. But I can definitely see merit in the alternatives being suggested.

Please carry on 'waffling and ranting'!
 

AJC

Western Thunderer
No Pete, I didn’t read that as either rant or waffle, just a clear explanation of your choices and reasoning. The card model - a maquette in effect - is just a way of clarifying your working, for others it might be the final answer. I appreciated that and I think everyone else does too.

Adam
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thank you all! I admit that I did have a bit of a mild crisis over the last couple of days, and really began to wonder if I was doing the right thing? There was only one way to resolve the problem, and that was to actually start cutting some plastic - regardless!

I decided to begin with the main bulkheads:

vSAM_6550.JPG

At least I could sit and quietly chop out a load of the distinctive little access steps that run down to the bottom of the hold at each end.

Shaping the arcs by whittling from the back with the tip of the scalpel blade was surprisingly not that difficult, bearing in mind the annoying tremors, but I did find that continually having to "wait for the right moment to strike" got rather tedious!

vSAM_6552.JPG

I ended up cutting two sets of bulkheads with a potential "one for later?" in mind. For that second go, I cut the line of steps slightly further inboard to allow for possible fitting of more deeply curved corners to the hold coamings and head ledges?

Framing up on the fairly thin skins started with pre curved and cambered deck beams and then the "floors":

vSAM_6553.JPG

Finally filling in with all the frames. Additional ribs were attached to the side of the step "cut outs" in order to box them in correct fashion later.

vSAM_6557.JPG

The bulkheads have come out satisfyingly rigid...

but best of all:

vSAM_6558.JPG

By flooding slightly more that the usual amount of solvent around the ribs, and after some fairly aggressive massaging, the "hungry horse" effect has been happily repeated!

That is what had been worrying me so much really!

Pete.
 

Richard Insole

Western Thunderer
Beautiful work (as always) dad!

That has turned out rather smart. It/you have captured the wrinkly metal look really rather well. I hope that it wasn't too labor-intensive to get this look? However, even if it was, it is a wonderful finish that would be well worth the time. I cant wait to see some more of this, it is fair to say that this has tickled the fancy of my imagination.

When we were in London in August on the wedding anniversary getaway, I remember looking at them over at tower bridge. I only wish I had taken more photos (as is always the way). We stopped a few times on our walk along the themes, so I could look at them. I just never got the camera out to snap them apart from this one where I got the lighting all wrong to see anything on the account of wanting to get the sky. So, nothing to offer here for reference but, as I say with "tickling the fancy of my imagination", as just an aft piece, it already looks the part and I am transported to seeing them in my mind's eye. There is no question that this is definitely the desired effect. Super fantastic stuff.

20210819_170455.jpg

I really love this project!

Rich.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thanks Rich, you weren't to know what I was thinking about when you were last down there... Come to that, neither did I!

This is a bit naughty, but I just can't resist putting up this comparison shot... shown for illustrative purposes only of course:

vpool_normal_4243612892_b1a2a01a85_o.jpg

It is equally bad - and a bit unfair playing the age card too, but I'm so glad to be old enough to remember seeing the "Pool" like this on our frequent, family, summer Sunday afternoon jaunts up and down the river. It is strange to think that the above scene hadn't changed that much for several generations before. Admittedly though, what for us is the utterly iconic Tower Bridge, was for them a brand new, appallingly ugly, "modern eyesore" intrusion on the landscape?!

As for the "labour intensive" question; well, I don't suppose that I will ever learn now?!

Here is more proof - if it were at all needed?!

vSAM_6560.JPG vSAM_6561.JPG

I really want the ribby effect to include the underside of the (barely visible) "swims", so have gone for the fully framed approach here too. An old fashioned, balsa and tissue, model aeroplane construction method seemed to be the only viable option. It has to be admitted to being a right, royal pain though, having to measure out and trim each individual strip with two pretty accurate half joints to sit correctly between the rather awkward, "Spitfire" wing shaped, "leading edge" frames - and all with wobbly, wavering wrists trying to work on a much harder, scalpel blade busting plastic!

It should worth it, and all be sturdy enough to absorb a few accidental knocks and bashes along the way when finally, fully made up?

vSAM_6562.JPG vSAM_6564.JPG

Only three more like this one to do... before I go completely barmy.

Oh, no; it's too late, I'm already there aren't I...?!

Pete.
 

Dog Star

Western Thunderer
I think that filing the notch into the end of the stringer is going to be easier than using a knife (because of the hardness of the plastic).

Think about making the curb rail of a model PO wooden solebar wagon... and then ask amongst the Love Lane crew for a copy of "The 4mm Coal Wagon" by (the late) John Hayes wherein you shall find photos of a jig to ensure consistency of filing the end shape of the curb rail.
 

michael mott

Western Thunderer
Pete you could also use a jewelers saw to remove a lot of material before filing or chopping. Lovely work on the framing so far.

Michael
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thank you Dog Star and Michael for your good advice. I have just completed the second swim now, but will indeed ask the "Lovelies" nicely next time I am over there. I have a distinct feeling that barge building won't stop with this particular example just yet, so I would be very grateful for anything that helps.

A decent jeweler's saw has been under consideration, on and off for quite a while, but somehow I have never seemed to get round to actually acquiring one!! I did pick up a piercing saw recently, but only blades designed for it fit - and while they are very fine, they are still much too coarse for a delicate job like this! I also understand that the super slim blades of a jeweler's saw require a very steady hand, and with my awkward medical condition I do have visions of successfully managing to snap every one out of a pack - before being able to complete a single cut?!

Pete.
 

mickoo

Western Thunderer
.............. require a very steady hand, ..........

Pete.
Good job you don't paint roads in your spare time then.

wonkyroadlines.jpg

All laughter aside, I sympathise with your struggles and if you find a knife more comfortable then keep using it :thumbs:

I've had a simple cheap piercing saw for years and pay for decent blades from Cooksongold, yes they are more expensive but you do really get what you pay for. Good blades last quite a while and if you're snapping them then it could be they are not tight enough in the saw, they need to be really tight to work well. I tend to use 4/0 for everything now, 10 thou metal up to 40 thou with no issues, except 10 thou needs you to angle the saw a little to get more teeth in contact with the material.

Not sure what thickness your Plasticard is but I have some Vallorbe 6/0 blades here I'm never going to use, you're welcome to have them and break at your leisure.
 

Peter Insole

Western Thunderer
Thank you Mickoo, that is a very kind offer. I really should stop worrying about it, and just have a play! You never know until you've tried?!

Meanwhile, I have cut the bits for the last two sets of swims now, and am getting a little high on Methylene Chloride fumes sticking it all together!

Pete.
 
Top