7mm Martin Finney Stella question

Discussion in 'WR Action' started by Kev T, 10 May 2021.

  1. Kev T

    Kev T Western Thunderer

    I've built the body and mostly built the chassis. So far it's gone OK with only a headache over the inside motion which is now working OK.
    I've got to the stage to fit the outside frames and brake gear etc. and realised that there's no way to remove the wheels or motor when they're fitted. This will obviously be a pain for painting and maintenance when required.
    Has anyone built this kit with the wheels removable? Is it possible to fit the outside frames to the body without compromising the chassis fittings?


  2. Longbow

    Longbow Active Member

    Funnily enough I have just emailed Finney7 asking more or less the same question. I have acquired a fully finished Stella that I want to chip, and I could not see how to get inside. Is my loco destined to be a permanent shelf queen?
  3. SimonT

    SimonT Western Thunderer

    I have partly built one for our instructions. The short answer is I cannot see an easy way.
    DSC03184 (2).JPG

    The inner frames are firmly soldered to the outside frames but having the inner frames removable wouldn't necessarily help. This is because the extended axles go into the space of the outer axleboxes and these cannot be dropped out as the lower outer springs hold them in place. The leading driven axle is also held in place by the inner spring. The brake gear could be arranged to fold out of the way in the maner described by Mickoo and Adrian on the LNER Group Standard Tender.
    I have a background task of designing a new chassis for the Aberdare where there is the same problem to solve.

    If you find a way to do it, can you let us know how you did it! Good luck.
  4. Kev T

    Kev T Western Thunderer

    Thanks Simon
    that's what I expected. I'll have a look at making it all removable with 12ba fixings as per the MOK Armstrong, but I suspect it will either still not be possible or a such a hassle that it's hardly worth it.
  5. Dodger

    Dodger Member

    E1FE2B74-82EE-48F5-A161-CF21F0358B9E.jpeg EB425D04-BC1E-41FB-AA20-C4730E911D3D.jpeg 196090FA-B118-48CB-9AAF-F4A5B45C81DE.jpeg I have just started an original Finney Bulldog and have made the frames removable for the very same reasons.
  6. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    This might be a silly idea...

    but could the outer frames be made to part down the middle, so the axleboxes can slip over the ends of the axles?

    presume the buffer beam and maybe the footplate would have to be attached to the inner frames?

  7. Yorkshire Dave

    Yorkshire Dave Western Thunderer

    Another idea depending upon how much work you want to put in - uses the brake gear as a keeper plate. Based on SimonT's photo.

    Dog Star and Deano747 like this.
  8. Kev T

    Kev T Western Thunderer

    Dodger, that's really quite a neat arrangement. Are the screws 12BA? My initial thoughts were to make the outer frames individually removable but I'll have a look to see if your idea may be possible for the Stella, as the springs and suspension units are all fastened beneath the outer frames and of course the brake linkage will foul.

    Dave and Simon T, I'll have a look at these ideas.

  9. Dodger

    Dodger Member

    Hi Kev Yes I have used 12BA screws to attach the outer frames to the under frame.

    hoping to post some information on what I have done so far with the Bulldog build.

  10. Ian Rathbone

    Ian Rathbone Western Thunderer

    I’ve just painted a Stella. The frames fitted to the superstructure via two studs through the drag beam and a single screw under the smoke box. The brakes were removable, luckily, but all else was solid. I can see that future maintenance would be a problem but painting was fairly straight forward. Ideally you would paint as much as possible before final assembly, in particular the space between inner and outer frames. The outer frame can be sprayed but all remaining work inside needs to be brushed. Remember that the GW only painted the eccentric rods and cranks on the motion, the remainder being bright. Actually ‘bright’ should read ‘dull’ - gently blacken the unpainted motion before assembly. Inside face of the frames, motion bracket, eccentric rods and cranks are red oxide, not red. 442D9477-32D9-4150-B171-AE8DA6DDD846.jpeg

    Ian R
    LaScala, Phil O, michl080 and 12 others like this.