7mm Pete’s GWR workbench. Dean's goods. RR R1 class 0-6-2T

Discussion in 'WR Action' started by Peter Cross, 27 October 2019.

  1. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    As I have a few West Western locos coming up thought I'd make an appropriate area for them.

    After being away from the bench for nearly 4 months. I seem to have some mojo back. But to to make sure it stays I started a straight forward kit.

    It's a Javelin Dean's goods. Not sure of number as yet, it as the kit builds the later surviving locos, it my well wel up in BR black.
    Well so far the loco frames are on wheels and details are being added. Once I decide on crankpins I'll get it running.


    Following this there will be a 517 class, a DJB kit, well 90% of one anyway. Only a few castings missing. I've built one before, and this will be a closed cab later one.


    There's a RR/GWR R class, which is a rebuild, it is now in parts and apart from the radial trailing wheel and axle boxes that I knew were missing. I will need to make new tank tops, and smokebox wrapper. So nothing to strenuous. This is how it can.


    There is also a Saint class. Which I feel is a long term project, as it's a miss mash of parts. Etches from one source, castings from Scorpio, and tender from Slaters. Which is better travelled than me. I bought it from someone in Australia and it now resides in Brazil.
    Rob Pulham, mswjr, GrahameH and 7 others like this.
  2. simond

    simond Western Thunderer

    Hi Peter,

    Is it a trick of the light or is the R class a bit bowed?

  3. P A D

    P A D Western Thunderer

    Hi Peter,
    Good to see you back. You'll need plenty of mojo rebuilding the the R class, so good luck with that. Look forward to seeing it rising from the ashes.:thumbs:
  4. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Unfortunately it's not a trick of the light. It also had an off centre boiler. Hence the new tank tops one was 1.5mm smaller. The R is in a box as nice shiny parts ready to rise again.
  5. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Hopefully it won't be to bad. I've seen a photo of completed one in brass, which look ok.
    I keep thinking when I see the photos of them, they look as if they should have larger wheels.
  6. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I've knocked up the basic footplate to check clearances, the wheels are very tight in the splashers. May need a 0.5mm plasticard spacer to ensure no sparks. Apart from this it seems to fit together nicely. IMG_20191030_091821442_HDR.jpg

    Will now do the tender frame to see how the two parts line up.
    georgeT, Rob Pulham, mswjr and 10 others like this.
  7. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    So the chassis for the tender was started and finished it. It all went together very well.
    The pictures show it before cleaning up.


    Checking against the loco, the footplate on the loco is a bit low. So the 0.5mm placard will put the two about the right height to each other, and sort out the splasher problem as thought.


    Next I'll do the footplate just to check clearances and levels before we go any further with the build.
  8. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    That's the loco frames done, ready for a good clean up.

    Only needed to add brake gear and sand pipes. I'm looking to see where the injectors go, to see if I add them to the frames or body.


    I'm onto the driving wheels at the moment, one I need to figure out what to do about the crank pins. They also need tidying up as they are spoke insulated, a bit of glue and cast pips to get rid off.
    Last edited: 9 November 2019
    BrushType4, Rob Pulham, mswjr and 6 others like this.
  9. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    I needed to sort the crankpins to make sure it actually rolled as it should.
    The pin holes in the wheels was large well 1.8 tapping size for 8BA. This limited what I could do. I've got some 8BA pins, but they are like shouldered screws unfortunately the shoulders were to long, for the rods with the kit.
    Then as an experiment I looked at Slaters, and yes it is possible to drill and tap them 8BA. I now just need to make some suitable nuts. You can also drill and tap 12BA nuts to 8. But it is very close. Will try soldered to a washer and see if that will make a suitable nut.


    Back to the tender, a start was made on the top. It does seem to fit together rather nicely, I'm fitting the cast flare corners, as I only ever seen to get one right using the etched fingers.


    Back at the bench today so hopefully more progress. I need to find the one to model, it'll either be late GW or early BR.
  10. Genghis

    Genghis Western Thunderer

    Peter, we have some crankpin bushes tapped 8BA (produced in error) that have the standard Slater's OD. Happy to send you a packet if they will be of use. (Appreciate the postage issues).
    Rob Pulham and 3 LINK like this.
  11. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Thanks David
    I have tap some Slaters out, so that bits ok. I just don't like the look of 10BA nuts tapped out to 8 they look to big. I'm experimenting with 12. If they don't work then I'm going to have to fabricate them.
    Did you take over the Javelin kits? For an old kit they build very nicely with few niggles.
  12. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Here is where we are now. Almost all the brass bits fitted. Unfortunately it's a bank holiday here today Friday, so the family have decamped and moved to a place Salinopolis (on the Atlantic coast it's our closest sea) for the weekend, car service on Monday, so that's I for a few days. Life's a bu@@er I'm writing and drinking beer, it's 11pm and 25° on the balcony. But someone has to do it.

    Back to the rightful subject. The tender has been a delight to build. The only doubtfully fitting part has been the u shaped coal space. The tab didn't line up with its slot. Not hard to cure.
    Still needs some cleaning.


    The two parts together.

    And it is now easier to see the discrepancy in levels. It gives me plenty to pack up the loco footplate to get the clearance in the splashers.

    Hopefully some more next week.

    Now where's the beer.
  13. Genghis

    Genghis Western Thunderer

    Peter, can you not just invert the bushes and use a washer to space the coupling rods from the wheel bosses?
    We didn't take over the Javelin range: there are complications in ownership. Pity as there are some nice models there.
  14. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Thanks for reminding me, I've used them that way before. Sometimes I think the more you look at a problem the less you see.

    That's a shame, I suppose now that's a range that has disappeared. I've made 3 of the range and all were nice to build.
  15. daifly

    daifly Western Thunderer

    Peter Cross likes this.
  16. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Thanks Dave that's good to know.
  17. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Slightly backwards today, I had a spare 20 minutes this morning so thought I'd start looking at loco tender coupling. As the both frames are no my test track I was looking and measuring there. So far so good, what happened next was not so hot. I managed to let the loco framed topple from the boards. Unfortunately the boards are four and a half feet or more above the tiled floor. Knowing things were going to bust, foot out to catch reaction is not the best answer. Etched nickel silver guard irons go into flesh quite easily. Kicking reaction to pain volleys frames into wall, thus bending said guard irons and splitting two joints.
    This evening loco frames repaired and tested instead of constructing tender body. Foot still sore not just the to snake bite looking puncture holes but also split toe nail from hitting wall.

    Now what will Tuesday bring. I'm hoping for results that are less painful.
  18. simond

    simond Western Thunderer


    Been there, see Fathers’ Day some year’s back on Porth Dinllaen...

    Get well soon!
    Peter Cross likes this.
  19. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    Well that's the brass work of the tender completed. The white metal castings are ready to go on. Might try gluing this time, PAD seems to have good results with this method. I normally solder. Gluing might lead to easier cleaning up.


    Once the casting are dealt with I'll go back to the loco tender coupling, work will be done on the bench this time.
    I'm looking forward to getting on with the loco. It's nice to have an easier kit to do.
  20. Peter Cross

    Peter Cross Western Thunderer

    That's the tender finished. The castings were in the most good, but seemed a little soft.
    I've changed the coupling from screw fix to a peg, mainly due to me damaging the fold up part on the chassis.
    Here are the photos.


    Having seen the picture I for got to add the water filler handle.
    On wards and upwards, time for the loco body.