Ready to run 1/32 Mk 1 Coaches

taliesin

Western Thunderer
Looking good Simon :thumbs: , as an aside regarding the back to back measurement, from memory the quoted figure is 42.2 mm but is this an absolute? How do Slater's 'Finescale' wheels perform given that they are set at 41mm (i think)
cheers Rob
 

Simon

Flying Squad
My track (and ScaleOne32 standard) is 42mm across check rails, so in practice your back to back wants to be greater than 42mm. To use Slaters fine you need a tiny bit more as the flange is thicker/less well defined than it should be. On the other hand Mark Woods' beautiful work runs through at a nominal 42mm back to back, as he pushes down to the dimension and his machining and finishing is to a very high standard.

I'm afraid I get my (G1F) stuff to run by pushing wheels out until they work, and back a bit if I go too far, not very scientific:oops:

Simon
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Back to the coach, another thing that I've just twigged from looked at the pictures is the need to cut away the bottom of the inward opening guards doors, I think those doors also want different sorts of handles fabricating.

A further dis-assembly is indicated:p

Simon
 

taliesin

Western Thunderer
I have seen on another site that someone reckons the height scales out at 10mm, has anyone measured theirs?
cheers Rob
 

Simon

Flying Squad
I now have a key prototype dimension (thanks Neil) so if I can summon up the energy I will go and measure one of my coaches.

Either way it sounds as if I can nuke the plinth and not make the coach too low.

I'm currently half way through some serious bodgerey on the g1mc mineral wagon, not good for the pinkies.....

Simon
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Who was that then Rob?

I have just measured mine against the dimensions sent to me by Neil (from Parkin I think) and it is exactly to 1/32 scale.

I measured three dimensions, roof top to rail height, width across body at widest point and width across foot boards.

My admiration for these coaches increases.

Simon
 

Osgood

Western Thunderer
So does the actual height of the side of a Mk1 equal the scaled height of the coloured side (not including the black plinth), or the height of the coloured side plus the black plinth?
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Just for interest, I've measured my coaches up against the measurement quoted in the G1MRA fast forum - 127mm from railhead to top of water filler. My coaches measure 121mm for the same dimension. The dimension should equal 12'7" which is 120.29mm in 1/32 scale.

I put mine next to a known, accurate 10mm version yesterday, the difference is, unsurprisingly, noticable :)

In other news, an answerphone message this morning puts the dimensions of the step above the gangway as protruding 7 1/2" out from the flat face of the end and being 45" wide. Roughed out, thats 6mm x 36mm, the model measures out as 11.5mm x 39mm, time for surgery.

Steve
 

Simon

Flying Squad
Just for interest, I've measured my coaches up against the measurement quoted in the G1MRA fast forum - 127mm from railhead to top of water filler. My coaches measure 121mm for the same dimension. The dimension should equal 12'7" which is 120.29mm in 1/32 scale.

I put mine next to a known, accurate 10mm version yesterday, the difference is, unsurprisingly, noticable :)

In other news, an answerphone message this morning puts the dimensions of the step above the gangway as protruding 7 1/2" out from the flat face of the end and being 45" wide. Roughed out, thats 6mm x 36mm, the model measures out as 11.5mm x 39mm, time for surgery.

Steve

Brilliant Steve, time for a bit of cutting!

They definitely looked wrong on the coach as supplied - I wonder how many will get left as they are?

Simon
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Brilliant Steve, time for a bit of cutting!
They definitely looked wrong on the coach as supplied - I wonder how many will get left as they are?
Simon
I think lots of people will cut them down because they make an audible clicking sound even on 10 foot radius curves....there are a few sets on their way within my local group and all are destined for selective trimming.
Its an easy job....lay a 4mm square section of brass against the roof and use as a guide for a razor saw. Support the outside of the step as you cut as it is all a bit flexible, then quickly tidy up the cut edge with a file. There are four triangular supports moulded into the underside of the step, they will need trimming to suit the revised length. I'm going to live with the over width for the moment as that will require removal of the ends (or working out how best to extract the step itself).

Couple of photos showing before and after

Step Mod2.JPG



Step Mod1.JPG

Steve
 

Bob Reid

Western Thunderer
What people need to know is - who nicked the door handles and set of bump stops from the double doors? :)

These Mk1s look considerably better than the pre-production shots implied. Sure there's room for improvement - that plinth would bug me and the weedy hinges would need sorted for a start, but they are certainly not without scope - if it takes your fancy that is!
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
I must say the visual improvement is immediate and dramatic, big return for little investment!
I shall do the rest after I've been shopping...

Apologies for the slightly Heath Robinson approach to making a height gauge, but by using a couple of squares and a couple of rulers I reckon the height from top of the roof to the bottom of the plinth is just over 79 mm. Assuming that the target measurement should be 79.63mm (8'4" if I've understood correctly) then the plinth should be included in the height of the side and if it is, the overall measurement is with 0.5mm. Or should we discuss whether I should have included the height of the ribs :D

Height Gauge.JPG


Perhaps more importantly than chasing all of the measurements ( :oops: ) is the simple fact that these have run for about 35 real miles now, with just two minor problems - I've lost a couple of door handles and a coupling hook spring retainer needed fixing (Ill do a follow up post later)!
As ever, you pays your money.....
Steve
 

JimG

Western Thunderer
Apologies for the slightly Heath Robinson approach to making a height gauge, but by using a couple of squares and a couple of rulers I reckon the height from top of the roof to the bottom of the plinth is just over 79 mm. Assuming that the target measurement should be 79.63mm (8'4" if I've understood correctly) then the plinth should be included in the height of the side and if it is, the overall measurement is with 0.5mm. Or should we discuss whether I should have included the height of the ribs :D

Have you allowed for the height of the wheel flanges? :):):)

Jim.
 

Dikitriki

Flying Squad
I think all these measurements just go to show how good the product is. Speaking personally, I can't guarantee to get a coach height right to within 0.5mm, even on the best of kit builds - there's too much margin for accumulated error.

Bloody good show I say.

Richard
 

Simon

Flying Squad
I think Steve did Jim, as that is exactly the result I obtained when I measured mine on the track.

Simon
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
Have you allowed for the height of the wheel flanges? :):):)
Jim.
No need Jim, one measurement was from the top of the roof to the bottom of the plinth, so its just the body side that was of interest. When measuring the overall height (rail top to water filler), that was done with it on a piece of track :)


I think Steve did Jim, as that is exactly the result I obtained when I measured mine on the track.
Simon
That two of us with the same result then, excellent. I've decided that dimension wise its plenty good enough for me, time for individualisation (and running, lots and lots of running).
Steve
 

Steve Cook

Flying Squad
The coupling hook retainer issue mentioned above is another easy fix. As supplied, a simple ring is used to retain the coupling hook and spring.

Coupling Hook retainer1.JPG

It works fine unless the ring rotates in service, we noticed after the third loco had been pulling my coaches that the coupling hook was at full extension. Flipping the coach upside shown that the ring had rotated enough for the spring to have worked its way through the gap in the ring

Coupling Hook retainer2.JPG

The very quick fix is simply to squeeze the ring together so the ends overlap, eliminating the gap.

Coupling Hook retainer3.JPG

Longer term, the coupling hooks and 3 links (just fitted to the outer ends of the BSK) are likely to be replaced with something a bit better looking, I suspect a washer and an R clip will result in a posher, but no more effective solution.

Steve

Apologies for the poor photo quality, hopefully you can still make out what goes on.
 
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