7mm Ressaldar's kit building swansong - Class 22

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Today I have installed the windows in the cabs, I was a bit apprehensive about this as I was convinced that despite them being laser cut, there would still be a lot of filing to be done. To say that they fell in would almost be an understatement as all that was needed file wise was on the miniscule pips which were left after removing them from the sheet. Glue and Glaze canopy glue was used around the edges . Any blobs that may have strayed onto the windows will be removed once it has hardened.

20210928_135304.jpg

and I also recruited a driver from Modelu - no names but he is on here and no doubt blushes every time he logs on!

20210928_135518.jpg

so it is definitely the lights next and then the cabs can be fitted and any joint remedials carried out prior to the painting.

Still forgot the photo of the weights, next time for sure.

regards

Mike
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,
It’s looking really good, its tempting me to consider a class 24, or do I wait for Heljan to announce one?
Mark
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Mike,
It’s looking really good, its tempting me to consider a class 24, or do I wait for Heljan to announce one?
Mark

Hi Mark,

the Class 24 is one of the few that they have not produced yet, who knows what their next 'Announcement' will be, a Class 28 perhaps ?

regards

Mike
 

MarkR

Western Thunderer
I would have thought that Heljan must already have some suitable tooling for a class 24, perhaps the class 25 under- frame, bogies etc.
Mark
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
As promised, a couple of photos showing the weights in place

P1010838.JPG P1010839.JPG

there may be a need for more but the only place is between the fixing lugs and that would then put the weight mid point between the bogies and that might result in the long run of sagging, it shouldn't but may.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Unfortunately, there will now be a short intermission due to me blowing one of the red SMDs while testing out a bank of resistors mounted on a Vero board. This board is to cut down numbers of wires going to the decoder. I have ordered a replacement SMD (and spares) but I do not expect to receive them until Saturday at the earliest which means that I cannot make any progress until then due to the sequencing that is involved at this stage.

A running session at the Club this afternoon so I will be testing the haulage capacity of the 22 starting off with a couple of Dapol Mk 1s and going on from there. I will report back later.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Well a successful afternoon at the Club with the haulage trials for the 22 hauling four Dapol Mk1s. It passed with flying colours at all speeds (did not exceed speed step 60) standing start on the straight and the curve was no problem, so all in all well satisfied.

a very short video shot on the phone:


will do a longer one on completion of the model.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Hi Chris,

Yes is the answer thanks. I'm still a bit nervous over the last few bits, particularly the mating of the cabs to the body and watching for any gaps whilst the glue goes off. I shall be using the thicker glue as that will give me a few more seconds to play with.

I shall have a go at the route indicator blinds tomorrow when we return from shopping, then I might start looking at the main door handrails, they are 3D prints in the kit but I think that I might go for some 0.9 nickel silver wire, we'll see.

regards

Mike
 

richard carr

Western Thunderer
Mike

I have build a dozen of the JLTRT diesel kits and I find that to get a really good fit first time between the cabs and the body you need to spend a lot of time identifying where they don't fit on the inside and carefully removing the offending bits of resin so that you get a perfect dry fit, this often takes me several hours to achieve. If you have a perfect dry fit you will get a really good glued up fit with no gaps and a quick rub down with very fine wet and dry will be all it needs. Looking at the photo in post 82 you do look to have a pretty good dry fit already.

For cab handrails I use 0.7mm nickel silver, I drill the holes before painting and then fit the handrails once painted.

Richard
 

daifly

Western Thunderer
If you've recently updated your iPad, iPhone or MacBook to Safari 15, You will probably only see a blank where Mike's video link should be. If you copy this:
2-zIepufvj8
and enter it into the Youtube Search box it will take you to the video.
It's an Apple/Safari problem (not Mike's, WT or Youtube!)
Dave
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Mike

I have build a dozen of the JLTRT diesel kits and I find that to get a really good fit first time between the cabs and the body you need to spend a lot of time identifying where they don't fit on the inside and carefully removing the offending bits of resin so that you get a perfect dry fit, this often takes me several hours to achieve. If you have a perfect dry fit you will get a really good glued up fit with no gaps and a quick rub down with very fine wet and dry will be all it needs. Looking at the photo in post 82 you do look to have a pretty good dry fit already.

For cab handrails I use 0.7mm nickel silver, I drill the holes before painting and then fit the handrails once painted.

Richard

Hi Richard,

many thanks for the tips on the fitting, I am approaching the task with baited breath. Also the heads up on the wire diameter, I am hoping that I have some small enough washers to fit the handrails as terminals where they fit the openings.

regards

Mike
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
If you've recently updated your iPad, iPhone or MacBook to Safari 15, You will probably only see a blank where Mike's video link should be. If you copy this:
2-zIepufvj8
and enter it into the Youtube Search box it will take you to the video.
It's an Apple/Safari problem (not Mike's, WT or Youtube!)
Dave

Hi Dave,

thanks for the heads up on this.

regards

Mike
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
I would have thought that Heljan must already have some suitable tooling for a class 24, perhaps the class 25 under- frame, bogies etc.
Mark

So long they don't use their 25/1 tooling for the cab fronts. Waaaay too flat. Their 25/3 is a much better shape. They won't listen though because they are Heljan and they know best!

Ross.
 

Ressaldar

Western Thunderer
Always nice to see your creation run for the first time. Bet you are really pleased Mike. Its looking fab.

Ross

Hi Ross,

it has been running in both DC - to initially run in the motor/gearbox and then latterly in DCC to check sound etc, yesterday was the first time it hauled anything and I must say that I am well impressed with the Canon motor/ Slater’s gearbox combination.

regards

Mike
 

rosspeacock

Modelling on a £1200 table.
Hi Ross,

it has been running in both DC - to initially run in the motor/gearbox and then latterly in DCC to check sound etc, yesterday was the first time it hauled anything and I must say that I am well impressed with the Canon motor/ Slater’s gearbox combination.

regards

Mike

That's good to know Mike as that'll be the same as the one I've got for mine. I've not bought the whole MM1 kit though just bodyshell parts, grille etches, tanks and bogie sideframes with bolster springs. I'll knock up a chassis and use fold up Bo-Bo bogie etches that I got from PRMRP, had to bite the bullet and get Slaters wheels but mine will be a 'budget' version. Watching yours with interest! It's coming on lovely.

Ross
 
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