Simon's workbench
- Thread starter Simon
- Start date
Simon
Flying Squad
Not a pretty picture but it gives some idea of the insanity of what will be the eighth bogie bolster for the line, ex SR 40 ton capacity rail wagon "Borail", a mere 64 feet over headstocks
Three more Plastruct sections have just been ordered which will respectively form the solebars, sides and provide the basis for the stanchion sockets.
I also intend to purchase Tenmille SR heavy buffers for use with this wagon
There are a lot of fiddly bits on this and I am committed to putting them all on, (or more likely ought to be committed)
Simon
Three more Plastruct sections have just been ordered which will respectively form the solebars, sides and provide the basis for the stanchion sockets.
I also intend to purchase Tenmille SR heavy buffers for use with this wagon
There are a lot of fiddly bits on this and I am committed to putting them all on, (or more likely ought to be committed)
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Diamond frames, being able to "legitimately" use my old "Big Hauler" bogies was one of this wagon's attractions, although as you say it is a pretty singular looking type of wagon.
As an aside, do you (or anyone else) have any really detailed shots of the stanchion pockets? They seem to sort of doubled up on both the solebar and body side, I'll go and have a dekko at Paul Bartlett's site. I guess there are quite a few still in existence that could be visited too.
Simon
As an aside, do you (or anyone else) have any really detailed shots of the stanchion pockets? They seem to sort of doubled up on both the solebar and body side, I'll go and have a dekko at Paul Bartlett's site. I guess there are quite a few still in existence that could be visited too.
Simon
AJC
Western Thunderer
Here's the relevant gallery: SR LSWR SECR BORAIL YLO YYO YNP YLP YNQ
What you're probably after is this: SR LSWR SECR BORAIL YLO YYO YNP YLP YNQ | ADS58007 MATCH TRUCK [2] and perhaps this: SR LSWR SECR BORAIL YLO YYO YNP YLP YNQ | S64622=083345 [2]
Adam
What you're probably after is this: SR LSWR SECR BORAIL YLO YYO YNP YLP YNQ | ADS58007 MATCH TRUCK [2] and perhaps this: SR LSWR SECR BORAIL YLO YYO YNP YLP YNQ | S64622=083345 [2]
Adam
Simon
Flying Squad
Fantastic, thank you Adam
For some reason I couldn't find the Borail pictures from the Southern wagons page.
I guess the "bracket" on the solebar simply serves to provide a secure location for the stanchion brackets, the bodyside itself being relatively flimsy.
Enough information to get on with it
Simon
For some reason I couldn't find the Borail pictures from the Southern wagons page.
I guess the "bracket" on the solebar simply serves to provide a secure location for the stanchion brackets, the bodyside itself being relatively flimsy.
Enough information to get on with it
Simon
AJC
Western Thunderer
It would certainly be worth buying the larger image but the arrangement - evidently riveted to the solebar and bodyside borrowing the former's strength - is shown. The side rave on the real thing was obviously not intended to take any form of load but its clearly relatively robust. There are also detail images of the one the Bluebell has (it's in the headshunt at Kingscote last I saw) with replacement planked floor from its last repair, here: Bluebell Railway Wagon News - SR Borail S57949
Adam
Adam
Simon
Flying Squad
Going back to the LED strips alluded to elsewhere, I have now deployed them around my kitchen cabinets and things certainly look a lot brighter. I'm not convinced that cool white was right
Anyways, here's a revealing shot of "Old Faithful" sitting on top of the microwave in the new light, it has come in for an axlebox cover replacement, dislodged whilst wheel cleaning
Simon
Anyways, here's a revealing shot of "Old Faithful" sitting on top of the microwave in the new light, it has come in for an axlebox cover replacement, dislodged whilst wheel cleaning
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Ruston sorted, so a bit more preparation of the Borail chassis...
I decided to epoxy lengths of Peco G1 rail behind each side member in order to reduce the inevitable tendency this wagon is going to have to bend in the middle. This also adds some weight to what is a very light structure and beefs up the corners where the finished wagon is going to take knocks. Here is the second rail clamped in position while the epoxy cures.
Next step is to fabricate and fit cross members. Although I am not intending to model the underside, these are necessary in terms of tying my floor and frame structure together and so might as well go in where the prototype had them.
The first parts of all cross members now cut out and solvented into position, time for kip!
I decided to epoxy lengths of Peco G1 rail behind each side member in order to reduce the inevitable tendency this wagon is going to have to bend in the middle. This also adds some weight to what is a very light structure and beefs up the corners where the finished wagon is going to take knocks. Here is the second rail clamped in position while the epoxy cures.
Next step is to fabricate and fit cross members. Although I am not intending to model the underside, these are necessary in terms of tying my floor and frame structure together and so might as well go in where the prototype had them.
The first parts of all cross members now cut out and solvented into position, time for kip!
Simon
Flying Squad
108 pieces of chopped up styrene sheet later....
Next step is add long strips of 30 thou styrene along the outside edges of the two central longitudinal sections, effectively forming a "C" section, these will run across the tops of all the cross members, sort of replicating how the real vehicle was put together.
I think it will also be worth strengthening all the joints between the newly formed cross members and the edge rails by dropping epoxy resin into each of the internal corners. Then it's moving on to beefing up the framework outside the bolsters while also thinking about coupling arrangements, as the coupling hooks need to swivel to allow for end swing, I guess this will be a good idea - it's what the real ones did.
And I'm nowhere near the rivets yet!
Simon
Next step is add long strips of 30 thou styrene along the outside edges of the two central longitudinal sections, effectively forming a "C" section, these will run across the tops of all the cross members, sort of replicating how the real vehicle was put together.
I think it will also be worth strengthening all the joints between the newly formed cross members and the edge rails by dropping epoxy resin into each of the internal corners. Then it's moving on to beefing up the framework outside the bolsters while also thinking about coupling arrangements, as the coupling hooks need to swivel to allow for end swing, I guess this will be a good idea - it's what the real ones did.
And I'm nowhere near the rivets yet!
Simon
Simon
Flying Squad
Last night at the club I dropped epoxy into all of the corners of the joints between the fabricated styrene cross members and the side rails, which has made the whole assembly stronger. Next job is to add some longitudinal strips as noted previously to make a C section and beef up the framing around the couplings, while devising how to make the couplings swivel.
I have been notified that the Plastruct sections I ordered from Antics (excellent range and service, just a satisfied customer) are going to be delivered just after lunch today and so I will then be able to put on the solebars, make up headstocks and add body sides.
In the meantime a package has arrived from Fred, it really is quite exquisite....
Two new wagons on the go
Simon
I have been notified that the Plastruct sections I ordered from Antics (excellent range and service, just a satisfied customer) are going to be delivered just after lunch today and so I will then be able to put on the solebars, make up headstocks and add body sides.
In the meantime a package has arrived from Fred, it really is quite exquisite....
Two new wagons on the go
Simon
Dog Star
Western Thunderer
I use Araldite epoxy resin frequently and I doubt that anyone could use the verb "drop" when thinking about applying that adhesive to a model. So what epoxy product are you using?
thanks, Graham
adrian
Flying Squad
I've always used Plastic Padding Super Epoxy, it's a much lower viscosity than araldite which is a boon when rim insulating cast iron wheels.
Captain Kernow
Western Thunderer
Is there published data on relative viscosities of different types of epoxy?
AJC
Western Thunderer
Almost certainly (one of my sisters worked on the stuff as a masters project), but whether it would be any earthly use for our purposes, not sure.
Adam
Simon
Flying Squad
Well everything from Antics arrived in good order and I have now solvented and glued the solebar channel and headstocks on to the chassis - quite hard to photograph as it's huge and all very white. Here the "L" section that will form the sides is also placed in position, I need to let all the solvent flash off and harden before doing much more.
As you can see, the edges of the channel section are a little bit too thick, I may chivvy away at this once everything is properly dry and set.
Simon
As you can see, the edges of the channel section are a little bit too thick, I may chivvy away at this once everything is properly dry and set.
Simon
Captain Kernow
Western Thunderer
Nice BR standard brake van, Simon, didn't know you had one of those.
daifly
Western Thunderer
Tim, you've either not been paying attention or are having a little joke! Simon's workbench